HDC3 Scratching

with rated power they are fine but when pushed 1500-2k per sub the spiders fail. the 7+ paper thin spiders is a bad idea another thing, if the roll was a lil taller it would help not destroy themselves so fast. good motor with so much more in it... not bashing just my oppion

 
with rated power they are fine but when pushed 1500-2k per sub the spiders fail. the 7+ paper thin spiders is a bad idea another thing, if the roll was a lil taller it would help not destroy themselves so fast. good motor with so much more in it... not bashing just my oppion
This is why we changed the spider pack. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
copper coil subs come from china, alum coil subs are from the US. Just reconed 8 subs a month ago and running a 3500 on each one and the "junk" spiders are holding up just fine. There is more to operator error then just setting the gain.

Does the sub have coil rub when you push on it? How far below box tuning with 2x RMS are you playing and for how long? Is your electrical able to keep up full tilt for as along as you play it, have you verified this with a DMM?

I've never seen any of the issues that others seem to have and I've been running nothing but HDC's for 3-4 years now. I have never run a new copper HDC straight from china though, but I have reconed to copper more then once and never had a problem. I religiously do a 10-12hr low volume break in and then beat the **** out of them...

I did separate one at the triple joint a few years ago doing some testing, but that was a burp with 2 3500's at .25ohm per sub.

 
If i was you, i would contact AQ just like Rabbit says, and maybe they could help you out. Listening to these guys is not helping. Maybe it's a defect from the factory, you never know, And yeah i would say it's user error, (Running 2000+watts on a 1000 watt rms sub!!!) what do u expect. It amazes me how people on here know more about building subs than the original company does!!! go figure. I've only know of a couple of guys on here that i would listen to concerning subs, and the parts to make it work, that's PSI, Resko1, SplAudio, and Jacob
you left a lot of knowledge off that list...

 
This is why we changed the spider pack. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
If you don't mind me asking, what did you guys change it to?

I know i've ran mine off the 2200d for a while now and no problems. I know it has the older spiders in it because right after I bought it, the price went up a little and people were saying they did something to the spiders.

I bought mine back in march of 2009.

 
No absolutely no coil rub when pushing in the cone. The lowest tuning (I KNOW OF) I'm hitting is 30hz and thats with very few hip-hop songs. So thats only 5-6hz below box tuning. I have a 200A Alt from EA and a stout battery. My electrical is keeping up. I hover around 12.5volts all the time.

copper coil subs come from china, alum coil subs are from the US. Just reconed 8 subs a month ago and running a 3500 on each one and the "junk" spiders are holding up just fine. There is more to operator error then just setting the gain.
Does the sub have coil rub when you push on it? How far below box tuning with 2x RMS are you playing and for how long? Is your electrical able to keep up full tilt for as along as you play it, have you verified this with a DMM?

I've never seen any of the issues that others seem to have and I've been running nothing but HDC's for 3-4 years now. I have never run a new copper HDC straight from china though, but I have reconed to copper more then once and never had a problem. I religiously do a 10-12hr low volume break in and then beat the **** out of them...

I did separate one at the triple joint a few years ago doing some testing, but that was a burp with 2 3500's at .25ohm per sub.
 
Has anyone done a how-to on reconing the HDC3?

My only real question is where does the spider glue to on the basket? Typically, I've seen flat spider landing's on the basket. But on mine, it was glued to a spot that wasn't flat. Basically, where the spider meets the basket, it was almost perpendicular, not flat.

If that's too in-elaborate to comprehend I'll post up a pic.

 
So here's a pic of the basket after I removed the old soft parts. The silver sanded portion with the question marks is where the old spider was glued to. Basically, is that exactly where the new one will be glued to? I thought the spider "mounting" point was on the lip of the basket.



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hard to tell by the pic, but yes the spider goes the same place as the original one. Clean the landing good before doing the recone. I also run a bead around the top once the spider is glued to the landing.

 
hard to tell by the pic, but yes the spider goes the same place as the original one. Clean the landing good before doing the recone. I also run a bead around the top once the spider is glued to the landing.

Thanks a lot!!! Exactly the answer I was looking for...

 
Rabbit u can not blame everything on the end user. Thats what all companys do when they knowing send out low grade product. Always the users fault never the company.
Just claim the end user didn't "break it in" properly. LMFAO.

I cone my own these days and I beat the tar out of them as soon as the glue is dry and I have only had failures on early projects when I didn't use enough glue.

8 year old Chinese girls are known for working cheap, not quality control. The AQ subs have quite the reputation for spider separating from things, this can not all be chalked up to end users.

 
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