Has anyone built the TriTrix from PE?

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

Very informative post thylantyr!

 

[sqhertz 5,000+ posts]

very , very nice post. just what i was looking for.that just gave me the boost i needed. i think ill go ahead and try this out very soon.

couple more q's though...

http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/hivijuniors/schematic.jpg

on the high pass L1 and rp2 are to both the + and - ?

same as the LP side with the c2 , ce and req?

whats a L-pad? eq?

and when i go to order the components , do i just look for the values? rp1 - 2 ohms , rp2- 6ohms etc..

im just trying to understand this before i go ahead and dive right in.

thanks ALOT for the help guys. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[btnhfan 5,000+ posts]

For the speaker guys, getting unshielded would still make the crossover the same or would I have to change that up?

 

[thylantyr 10+ year member]

http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/hivijuniors/schematic.jpg

on the high pass L1 and rp2 are to both the + and - ?

same as the LP side with the c2 , ce and req?

whats a L-pad? eq?

and when i go to order the components , do i just look for the values? rp1 - 2 ohms , rp2- 6ohms etc..

im just trying to understand this before i go ahead and dive right in.

thanks ALOT for the help guys. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I don't understand the question.

The left side of the drawing is + and - terminal. This is the wires that

connect to the amplifier output, + and -

Just follow the wires in the schematic to figure out how to connect the

parts.

Think of these wires are roads that you can travel on. You start on the left

side + wire and follow it.

Tweeter Crossover

Left side + wire connects to one side of the C1 capacitor. A capacitor has

two wires, you pick one since it's a non-polarized capacitor. The other side

of the capacitor connects to one wire of the L1 coil. Coils have two wires,

so you connect the other coil wire to the negative [ - ] terminal on the left

side. This is really just a ground.

The C1 / L1 intersection, the node with a dot also connects to one side of

the Rp1 resistor, the other of the Rp1 resistor connects to one side of the

Rp2 resistor and the other side of Rp2 resistor connects to negative [the ground].

The tweeter is now connected in reverse polarity on purpose, the RP1/RP2

node, the dot, is where the minus tweeter wire connects to, the + tweeter wire

connects to the negative [the ground].

Follow the same method for the midrange.

L-pad is a fancy name for dual resistor network that reduces voltage,

it's just a simple voltage divider. This is basic DC electronic theory at work.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider

http://www.bcae1.com/lpad.htm

Two resistors can be used to reduce power. L-pad in this design was

to reduce the power going to the tweeter, see below. The designer did

this on purpose to get a 5dB attuation. This implies that the tweeter was

too 'bright' and needed to be tamed SPL-wise so it mates better with the

SPL of the midrange. It's sorta like a fixed volume knob. You can replace

those L-pad resistors with a variable L-pad and just adjust the tweeter

volume yourself depending on your taste in music.

These units look like so;

http://www.usspeaker.com/L-Pad-260-265-size155.gif

How to wire a variable L-pad;

http://colomar.com/Shavano/lpad.html

You can install the L-pad on the back of the speaker box if you want to

be the clever guy. Just reach back and adjust the tweeter level. Or put

the knob in the front of the box.

Example of L-pad on the front of the speaker box;

http://www.jhalemusic.com/redstoneCabinets/rsa-10er.jpg

Caps

C1; 5.6uF

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=027-425

C2; 4 uF

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=027-421

Ce; 9.1uF

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=027-566

[You can probably use the 10uF Dayton cap as it's close enough and it's cheaper]

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=027-428

Coils

PE offers 20 awg, 18 awg, 15 awg wire sizes. The bigger the wire [smaller the number], allows for less losses. Since this is a low powerd design, the 18 awg size would be fine.

L1; 0.5mH [18 awg]

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=255-230&DID=7

L2; 0.8mH [ 18 awg]

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=255-242&DID=7

Resistors

Rp1; 2 ohms

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=004-2

Rp2; 6 ohms

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=004-6

Req; 6.2 ohms [use the 6 ohm resistor since they don't have 6.2 and it's close enough]

optional ->>>> L-Pad [variable type]

A mono 15w Lpad for the tweeter is good, use one for each tweeter.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-250

If you use this, you don't need Rp1, Rp2

Notes on that speaker design;

http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/hivijuniors/crossover.cfm

As mentioned above, due to the response of the B4N and the Fs of the tweeter, I decided on a 3KHz crossover point, using a 2nd order Linkwitz-Riley filter. An impedance equalization network was added to the woofer, and the tweeter was attenuated by 5dB. To keep the drivers in phase, the tweeter polarity was inverted. The system impedance was around 11 ohms at the crossover point, and varied between 5 to 8 ohms. All series components are Dayton metallized polypropylene caps and Jantzen air core inductors.

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

For the speaker guys, getting unshielded would still make the crossover the same or would I have to change that up?

If the T/S values are similar I wouldn't worry about it....

 

[sqhertz 5,000+ posts]

again , excellent post thylantyr. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif thank you. you answered my question.

there really should be a sticky about this stuff.

 

[btnhfan 5,000+ posts]

I'll just stick with the shielded tweeters.

But now I can't decide between this and the Noah 8's again. Which of the two designs do you guys think will have more output?

 

[thylantyr 10+ year member]

I'll just stick with the shielded tweeters.
But now I can't decide between this and the Noah 8's again. Which of the two designs do you guys think will have more output?

Which two designs? lol

Noah 8 has an 8" woofer and standard 1" silk dome tweeter. The box seems

large and that is needed to get some good bass output.

Hi Vi Jr has a 4" woofer and a weird 1" dome tweeter rated at less power than

the tweeter in the noah 8, plus this tweeter has a higher Fs.

TriTrix has dual 5" midwoofers in a transmission line and a similar if not thd same tweeter as the noah.

From a tweeter SPL point of view, those 1" dome tweeter are probably in a

similar boat.

For bass, the Hi Vi jr is limited to the small woofer and the Noah 8 ported

with the 8" woofer would offer much more. Dual 5's transmission line can

do well in bass also, but I don't know if it's going to be that much better than

one 8" ported.

If you want more SPL, the classic design will do more.

Magna *** Laude [1" dome, 6" mid, dual 12" woofers]

http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/magna/index.cfm

 

[btnhfan 5,000+ posts]

No I don't want more bass. I have plenty of that from my XXX.

I guess its between the TriTrix and Noah 8 in terms of which would be best suited for both music and ht usage.

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

No I don't want more bass. I have plenty of that from my XXX.
I guess its between the TriTrix and Noah 8 in terms of which would be best suited for both music and ht usage.

If your considering 8s, you should look into the Half-Chang:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=109208&highlight=

Post #19. Its only a bit bigger than the Noas, let you step in to the full range world //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif They use the pioneer B20s off parts express...then use tweeter (8ohms, similar sensitivity) with a 2uF cap. Any tweeter will work as its only covering from 10k and up...

Thats what i am running right now, sound is superb for the cost of materials. Really good with music....The graph is on that same page...F3 appears to be in the 35hz range...

Edit: Quote about the design:

End-correction? It's not really about trying to extend the bass. These boxes are just regular BR or MLTL cabinets, and I design them as such initially, then replace the usual small vent with a larger flared one (or more than one) that gives the same Fb. The rapid decrease of pressure you get from the flare reduces noise and any peaking at Fc, should either exist. As you've coupled to more air you get a larger scale to the presentation & they help act as waveguides to an extent so they sound a bit like BLHs, albeit a heck of a lot smoother most of the time as they operate over a much narrower passband.

 

[btnhfan 5,000+ posts]

Well I'm going with the TriTrix. Building won't start till after New Years, but Ill put up a thread about it.

Whats even better is the wood is going to be cnc cut. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif It pays to have friends in the machine shops on campus.

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

CNC FTW!!! Tell us how it sounds!

 

[BrianChia 10+ year member]

I've built something similar to the TriTrix, using the same cabinet design and tweeter but with Silver Flute woofers from Madisound a tweaked crossover.

BTW, I like to use pegboard and zip ties for building crossovers:

 

[sqhertz 5,000+ posts]

I've built something similar to the TriTrix, using the same cabinet design and tweeter but with Silver Flute woofers from Madisound a tweaked crossover.
BTW, I like to use pegboard and zip ties for building crossovers:

have a pic of the back side of that crossover?

 

[BrianChia 10+ year member]

Sorry, don't have any pics. Basically I run all the wire leads to the back of the pegboard and do all the soldering on the backside to keep it looking neat.