Guess Its Time for a HOalt :(

Well if you think your Memphis is putting out 2k rms, you are terribly mistaken. And 500 rms out of the gt 40 is a lil high as well. And how often do you have your HU at full tilt?
the memphis does a good 1500 at 2 ohms but I'm at about 2.67 (till i add my 4th 8) so probably about 1100-1200 out of it. And my boston GT 40 is doing a good 500.

Lately, I've been riding with it on about 25-30 of 40 more than usual just cuz I just put it all in and cant seem to get enough of it.

 
Sooooooo i'm running about 2000wrms in my lil tC on stock 100a alt. and I think its starting to take its toll. My lights dim like a mudafugga and starting today when the bass really gets goin on those low notes my 4 channel will go into protect so I'm thinking its probably my voltage dropping too low.
Do you have a DMM so you can check your voltage?

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Didnt read the whole thread, so I apologize if this has already been discussed, but talk to a local alternator shop. Many times they can sell you a respun alt, which is basically taking the windings out of your alt and stuffing as much copper into it as the case allows. Had a 90amp alt upgraded to a 140 for like 200 bucks several years ago. Not exactly a "H.O.", but better than nothing or spending 4-500 clams on a true 200+ amp unit.

The size of your alt case will dictate if this is possible. Call an alt shop, or better yet stop in and talk to them, they will probably be able to tell you if its an option right off the top of their heads.

 
Didnt read the whole thread, so I apologize if this has already been discussed, but talk to a local alternator shop. Many times they can sell you a respun alt, which is basically taking the windings out of your alt and stuffing as much copper into it as the case allows. Had a 90amp alt upgraded to a 140 for like 200 bucks several years ago. Not exactly a "H.O.", but better than nothing or spending 4-500 clams on a true 200+ amp unit.
The size of your alt case will dictate if this is possible. Call an alt shop, or better yet stop in and talk to them, they will probably be able to tell you if its an option right off the top of their heads.
that was my first thought, but someone told me that it wont do much for me at idle and I'm not even sure 140a would even be enough, wouldnt I just end up having to upgrade again?

 
Bro. I just went through this a few weeks ago. I called DC, Ohio Gen, Mechman, and EA(dont do the Fitzall). EA had the best deal with the 200 amp. Our cases are small and wont take a upgrade well. There was no upgrades at autozone ect. its the same size as a highlander but also the same amperage. Just be prepared to have the car idle funny for a few weeks until the ECU figures out a new fuel map. If you go EA ask about the voltage regulator.

 
that was my first thought, but someone told me that it wont do much for me at idle and I'm not even sure 140a would even be enough, wouldnt I just end up having to upgrade again?
Its impossible to say if 140 would be enough (or if your alt could even be respun to a 140, just used that number because its what mine became). There are many intangible factors we cannot account for, such as your listening tastes, type of music, and how often you listen to the system full-tilt. You should have a rough idea of this (better than us at least), and a little simple math like what your systems max current draw is should give you a ballpark idea if 140 (or whatever your alt would be capable of) is even close.

 
If u are like me then u must go custom and the cheapest I could find for a 200+amp alt was over $400 plus a $100-150 to install. Most of the top end of my motor has to be removed to get to alt and going from the underside will not wrk either.

 
If u are like me then u must go custom and the cheapest I could find for a 200+amp alt was over $400 plus a $100-150 to install. Most of the top end of my motor has to be removed to get to alt and going from the underside will not wrk either.
Usually its just brackets and belts that have to be removed to change out the alt. Its almost always more scary to look at, than to actually do. Most people here are DIY'ers, and with a little preparation, caution, and a few simple tools, its not beyond them to accomplish. $150 to change alts is, in most circumstances, an exorbitant price. Either they are quoting too many hours of labor at that price, or their labor rate is expensive. Usually a direct alt swap is relatively easy, its only when you get into installing multiple alts (custom brackets) that things start to get complicated. But we all have that decision to make, I do not mean to suggest that everyone has the same capabilities.

But yes I agree, with HO alts, you tend to get what you pay for. If one brand is grossly cheaper than all the rest, there is usually a reason why.

 
Most places will build you a custom one but they cost in the 450-500 range. You might be able to get urs rebuilt a little higher but it'll cost around 200 and prob wont be worth it if you plan to upgrade more. Heck my car only has a 70 amp alt and I'll be running just under 600rms and I hope with the big 3 it wont dim.

Your best bet would be to get one of those reputable companies to build you one if they dont have your cars alt.

Maybe wait and check for deals though, I think some of them can negotiate price also.

 
if you are using a digital multi-meter, it may not show an accurate reading of instantaneous drop in voltage, so your voltage may actually be dropping lower than 11.5. i would expect most amps to shut off at much lower voltage, perhaps below 10v. reading through your topic, i see part of the problem you are experiencing is potentially with the batcap. because the batcap is actually a battery, your alternator is essentially trying to charge two batteries, a tough task, especially for a small vehicle like yours. your recent troubles indicate the probability of insufficiently charged batteries losing their juices. you can try losing the batcap, but you might experience signficant dimming lights. other than that, a ho alternator is your other option.

keep in mind, alternators do not produce maximum charge at idle. they usually need a couple of thousand engine rpm's to reach close to max output. also, many ho alternators may produce even less than a stock one at idle.

 
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