grounding amp to battery

it really doesn't matter, the chassis is the chassis, no matter if you go trough a battery to the chassis or by a direct path. just make sure that the gound is as short as possible.

 
If only I could reach through a computer and smack some people. Resistance on the ground return causes major headaches. It is not about the size or amount of metal in the return, it is about the resistance that is generated by running large amounts of current through whatever blend of metals they use, then through glued together unibodys panels, then through spot welds and finally make it's way to your amp.

Electricity is an algebra equation, what you do to one side you must do to the other. If you have a monster system with a monster current draw you are not going to hook up to your fuse panel are you? So why treat the most important wire in your system with the least amount of respect. A proper ground (the 4th wire in the BIG 3), will have a return resistance reading of below 1/2 ohm. If the ground return resistance cannot be made to get below 1/2 ohm then it is highly advisable to ground direct to the battery, the same way that you hooked up the power wire.

 
So if I'm running a ground from amp to battery I don't need to "Y" off and ground to the chassi right? I know it will work to just ground to the battery but will it be BETTER to also do the chassi ground?

 
Hey Mopar, do you have any Mopar's?

I have a "66" Dart sporttin a 383. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/up2something.gif.dd110ecf3ae4b76050d87598f2f8de7c.gif

 
listen guy, as long as your ground is under 1\2 ohm.

get a DMM, and measure the resistance between where the ground in your trunk, and your - battery post is. if it reads real low, just ground in the trunk.

why waste all your time running the wire, and spending the money on the extra wire, if a ground to the chassis is just as good? upgrade the connection from your ALT to the chassis, upgrade the ground from the battery to the chassis, and make a good and short ground from the amp to the chassis.

if you run into problems, try and ground your amp to the FRAME of your car, in all. you SHOULDNT NEED to run a wire... because the car is grounded, if you get noise - then try it, but why solve a problem thats not there yet?

 
Most newer vehicles are basically LEGO mobiles and they are not built like the sturdy old tanks of the 70's but they are designed to fly apart in a collision. This means that there are joins and break points all across the vehicle. Like was correctly pointed out about, measure the reading first with your DMM and if the reading cannot be made to get below 1/2 ohm by means of proper grounding techniques, threats, yelling or abuse, run a new line to the battery.

 
i think we need to clear up a definition real quick: A chassis does not include thin metal body panels or the floor of a car. The chassis is the actual framework holding the car together, this is then already bolted to the best ground, the engine block.

So elaborating from earlier, a ground is a ground no matter if it goes through a battery TO THE CHASSIS or directly to THE CHASSIS. if you run a second battery or large draw amps then never ground to just a flimsy body panel.

 
i think we need to clear up a definition real quick: A chassis does not include thin metal body panels or the floor of a car. The chassis is the actual framework holding the car together, this is then already bolted to the best ground, the engine block.
So elaborating from earlier, a ground is a ground no matter if it goes through a battery TO THE CHASSIS or directly to THE CHASSIS. if you run a second battery or large draw amps then never ground to just a flimsy body panel.
unibodies dont have frames...

 
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