Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
grounding amp to battery
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="forbidden" data-source="post: 715170" data-attributes="member: 552189"><p>If only I could reach through a computer and smack some people. Resistance on the ground return causes major headaches. It is not about the size or amount of metal in the return, it is about the resistance that is generated by running large amounts of current through whatever blend of metals they use, then through glued together unibodys panels, then through spot welds and finally make it's way to your amp.</p><p></p><p>Electricity is an algebra equation, what you do to one side you must do to the other. If you have a monster system with a monster current draw you are not going to hook up to your fuse panel are you? So why treat the most important wire in your system with the least amount of respect. A proper ground (the 4th wire in the BIG 3), will have a return resistance reading of below 1/2 ohm. If the ground return resistance cannot be made to get below 1/2 ohm then it is highly advisable to ground direct to the battery, the same way that you hooked up the power wire.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="forbidden, post: 715170, member: 552189"] If only I could reach through a computer and smack some people. Resistance on the ground return causes major headaches. It is not about the size or amount of metal in the return, it is about the resistance that is generated by running large amounts of current through whatever blend of metals they use, then through glued together unibodys panels, then through spot welds and finally make it's way to your amp. Electricity is an algebra equation, what you do to one side you must do to the other. If you have a monster system with a monster current draw you are not going to hook up to your fuse panel are you? So why treat the most important wire in your system with the least amount of respect. A proper ground (the 4th wire in the BIG 3), will have a return resistance reading of below 1/2 ohm. If the ground return resistance cannot be made to get below 1/2 ohm then it is highly advisable to ground direct to the battery, the same way that you hooked up the power wire. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
grounding amp to battery
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list