Gotta change stock battery... Pulling 2000 RMS watts

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

I recently put together a new audio system thanks to all your suggestions. Now, somebody told me I'm pulling too much for my stock battery and should consider getting a better one that would fit my voltage/amp/wattage needs. I really don't know where, how or even understand how to choose something. This is what I'll be hooking up on the battery :

Soundstream RUB1.1600D Class D Amplifier 1600 Watt RMS

Soundstream RUB1.1600D Class D Amplifier 1600 Watt RMS | eBay

TARANTULA TX4.440 4-CHANNEL 440 WATT RMS

NEW SOUNDSTREAM TARANTULA TX4.440 4-CHANNEL 440 WATT RMS AMPLIFIER | eBay

Now... I heard some terms I'm not familiar with while searching for some information, such as... Capacitor. Some places say I need something special to wire 2 different amps, some places say it's perfectly fine to connect 2 amps on the same battery without any extra gadget or cost (as you would normally proceed when plugging a SINGLE amp).

Anyways, I found this thing which not only looks awesome but also states (if I understand correctly) that it is a battery in itself that could replace mine with extra options and better power handling or whatever.

SOUNDSTREAM SCELL-600 AMP CAP CELL CAPACITOR BATTERY

SOUNDSTREAM SCELL-600 AMP CAP CELL CAPACITOR BATTERY | eBay

According to the stock specs of my car, it says my stock battery has the following :

525 amp with run down protection

What are your suggestions, what do I do with that ? Thanks a whole lot you guys have been great. Will post a video of my build once it's all bought and installed !

Click to read more...

 

[infamous_e46 5,000+ posts]

DEKA 9A31 AGM Automotive Group 31 12v 100Ah Battery

that

 

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

That is WAY too expensive... Elaborate on why that specifically? It's also hideous looking lol, not that it matters but I wanted to point it out anyways.

 

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

Forgot to mention, my car is not a truck, it's a 2000 Saturn LS2.

 

[infamous_e46 5,000+ posts]

Forgot to mention, my car is not a truck, it's a 2000 Saturn LS2.

do you want to burn stuff up or maintain voltage ?

that big battery goes in the trunk i have one for sale as do other members on here

better yet stick around and read for a while

 

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

You actually want me to put my battery in my trunk? There won't be any space left when I'm done with the substage.

Also, what do you mean by "burn stuff up or maintain voltage" ?

And you didn't answer my questions, please teach me as I know nothing of this. I'm trying to learn. Why is this good, what does it do that others don't do, etc etc. ?

 

[Flex68 10+ year member]

I recently put together a new audio system thanks to all your suggestions :
Soundstream RUB1.1600D Class D Amplifier 1600 Watt RMS

TARANTULA TX4.440 4-CHANNEL 440 WATT RMS

Who is gonna claim responsibility...... ???

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

100+ah or leave it... Saturns FTW till they fall apart... Just wait its coming.. Full tilt never goes below 13.5v thats with stock 130a alt.. Remove ur spare tire and boom u gots lots of room all my batts are in my trunk as thats where Saturn OG put them sooooooooooo. Voltage drops to low and boom say bye to ur amps and maybe even ur subs so u can add an "ugly" batt or blow ur stuff up IDC either way.

 

[dcollister440 10+ year member]

Who is gonna claim responsibility...... ???

I'd like to know the same thing

Bro, just listen and learn. You're pulling a lot of wattage and need a battery that can quick release and store enough to handle all that pull....

eff it if it's ugly, why do you care? honestly....just like you listened to people just listen now...it will make all the difference. If you don't supply your amps with the proper power they will short circuit. so just replace the one up front and call it a day....who cares if its a saturn, that has absolutely nothing, I mean NOTHING to do with the voltage you need to run car audio.

 

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

Who is gonna claim responsibility...... ???

Many people recommended the Rubicon amp for what I'm using it with, and the Tarantula amp is perfectly fine for quadruple 110-watts each components. What's the problem? Instead of criticizing my build why don't you actually tell me what's wrong ?

100+ah or leave it... Saturns FTW till they fall apart... Just wait its coming.. Full tilt never goes below 13.5v thats with stock 130a alt.. Remove ur spare tire and boom u gots lots of room all my batts are in my trunk as thats where Saturn OG put them sooooooooooo. Voltage drops to low and boom say bye to ur amps and maybe even ur subs so u can add an "ugly" batt or blow ur stuff up IDC either way.

I don't have a spare tire in my trunk. And by the way, the "ugliness" of the battery, I will repeat : NOT THAT IT MATTERS ANYWAY, I was just pointing it out, never said I wouldn't get it because of how it looked. I'm not that stupid. The thing I need to know is a detailed explanation of how my battery(ies) manage the power, whats the best setup I could get in term of power for the amp build I've got here, etc...

I'd like to know the same thing
Bro, just listen and learn. You're pulling a lot of wattage and need a battery that can quick release and store enough to handle all that pull....

eff it if it's ugly, why do you care? honestly....just like you listened to people just listen now...it will make all the difference. If you don't supply your amps with the proper power they will short circuit. so just replace the one up front and call it a day....who cares if its a saturn, that has absolutely nothing, I mean NOTHING to do with the voltage you need to run car audio.

I know I need a good battery that can release enough, that's what I'm asking. Please explain how that works and why this choice more than the others? Replacing the one in front and putting in a better one is good enough? Or do I need 2 batteries? What's the difference between one or 2 batteries? How do you use 2 simultaneously? I don't know any of these things and that's what I'm asking. And I only mentioned the car make to give an idea of the car layout I have and the trunk space I have available.

 

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

So... What would the linked SOUNDSTREAM cap cell thing do with my setup/car ? Any info?

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

So... What would the linked SOUNDSTREAM cap cell thing do with my setup/car ? Any info?

You think a deka is ugly and too pricey but not that?! lol

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

Your amp draws power. Your alt and batts provide that power. When your alt can't provide enough, it's up to the batts to do it. Regular ol' batts don't have the reserve capacity (Ah) or discharge rate to do this when it comes to car audio demands.

You need a high discharge rate batt(s) with as close to 100 amp hours (Ah) as you can get. More is always better. (2) 50Ah batts is fine. (4) small ones. Whatever. You need some reserve. If you don't have reserve, your amp will draw your alt down, and then your crap stock batt, you get low voltage and bye bye pretty new amp. Amps don't like low voltage. Just ask the $1,000 paperweight I have in my garage.

There is about 9 billion threads on why caps are no good for daily systems. That "cap/cell" is 7Ah. Seven. Lol. You'd need like 12 of them. Caps discharge way too quickly. Like, in seconds they are fully discharged.

Get a big batt. Get a voltmeter. And watch it. People don't suggest big *** batteries because they think they're cool. It takes power to make power. Get some.

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

Im selling a brand new Deka 105ah dual post model for 150+ ship which isnt much more then that SS thing you posted...

 

[Sebaslegrand 10+ year member]

Your amp draws power. Your alt and batts provide that power. When your alt can't provide enough, it's up to the batts to do it. Regular ol' batts don't have the reserve capacity (Ah) or discharge rate to do this when it comes to car audio demands.
You need a high discharge rate batt(s) with as close to 100 amp hours (Ah) as you can get. More is always better. (2) 50Ah batts is fine. (4) small ones. Whatever. You need some reserve. If you don't have reserve, your amp will draw your alt down, and then your crap stock batt, you get low voltage and bye bye pretty new amp. Amps don't like low voltage. Just ask the $1,000 paperweight I have in my garage.

There is about 9 billion threads on why caps are no good for daily systems. That "cap/cell" is 7Ah. Seven. Lol. You'd need like 12 of them. Caps discharge way too quickly. Like, in seconds they are fully discharged.

Get a big batt. Get a voltmeter. And watch it. People don't suggest big *** batteries because they think they're cool. It takes power to make power. Get some.

Thank you for the information. That's what I wanted to hear. Now I know the difference between the cap/cell thing and what you're recommending. I will look into the one Bett'r is selling.

Im selling a brand new Deka 105ah dual post model for 150+ ship which isnt much more then that SS thing you posted...

Even to Quebec, Canada? And I just like the looks on the cell/cap thing better, but that's not something I look for when making a purchase, I was just pointing it out, that's all. Let's not make this an issue. All I'm looking for is something that will provide the perfect amount of power for approximately 2000 wrms at full load and never damage my equipment. If the Deka you are referring to will do it, which it probably does since you're recommending it, I will gladly look into it. Thank you for the suggestions.

Anybody else have ideas?