got my SX18 metered...i cried

Well that setup did a 143.9 on a new TL at 34hz. It was backed up by a 200A alt, a yellow top under the hood, and a Kinetik 2400 at the amp.
i did a 146.x on my TL with a brahma 15 and a cadence a7 (1200w @ 1ohm) 180a alt, two die hards.....i'm not trying to number drop here.

also i don't quite believe the fuse rating deal. i only have an 80a fuse and the amp is benched at 1450ihs.

 
Was it benched in your car? If not then your not getting that much power. Fuse rating * voltage = maximum RMS power

80 amps * 12 volts = 960
not in my car but @ 14v @ 1ohm....

honestly, i don't really care....it's a bad *** amp. it puts out a lot and the fuse seems like a low rating for what it sounds like it does...and that seems a little odd. could it be because it's effiency rating is 95%? so it actually put out most of teh power it takes it...unlike some other amps?

 
Im like you Trixter, as long as its loud to you, then who cares. But its nice to know what an amp is really putting out.

On a side note, after I got metered it has really put a lot of things into perspective for me. Especially that guy telling me about the fuse rating * volts = RMS, thats helped out a lot. Dont mean to get all deep and emotional with yall but its really opened my eyes to all this crap. :p

 
makes me realize i need to use a 200a fuse instead.....

another example is that hifonics hercules XX that was mentioned. don't know the fuse rating of it, but when i had it there was almost no difference between that and my a7. same set up. one at 1200w and the other at 2500w. double the power and the same spl (by .2) and sounded the same.

somethin' ain't right there.

 
You cannot multiply your fuse size times your voltage and get any sort of accurate measurement of wattage. Yes I kow the conversion formula for watts/amps/volts, but there's alot more to the story than that. Blow speed of the fuse you are using? Efficiency of the amplifier (which will lower it)? These are both examples of other things that affect your amplifier's actual output. Going by fuse size is a rough measurement of maximum sustained power through the fuse for a given amount of time determined by the blow rate of the fuse itself.

 
You cannot multiply your fuse size times your voltage and get any sort of accurate measurement of wattage. Yes I kow the conversion formula for watts/amps/volts, but there's alot more to the story than that. Blow speed of the fuse you are using? Efficiency of the amplifier (which will lower it)? These are both examples of other things that affect your amplifier's actual output. Going by fuse size is a rough measurement of maximum sustained power through the fuse for a given amount of time determined by the blow rate of the fuse itself.
It may not be accurate, but it does give you a ball park figure tho correct?

 
NO!
If I am using a Pyramid 500w POS, with a (for example) 200A fuse, does that mean I am getting 2kw from that amp? Absolutely not.

I dont understand, people are saying its somewhat accurate and then its not at all, or its completely accurate.

In that situation, a Pyramid 500W amp probably more than likely would not come with a 200A fuse. Putting that big of a fuse into an amp prolly wouldnt be good anyways. Especially a Pyramind 500W.

Im asking if its accurate with the fuse that came from the factory. Like if I saw a 1000W amp on the show room floor with a 40A fuse and it was getting 14V, I could assume it would do around 560W.

Im not asking if someone bought the same amp and then put a 200A fuse in it and expected the same amp with 14V to do 2800W.

But Tony you are right, that Pyramind would not do 2kw with just adding a 200A fuse.

 
makes me realize i need to use a 200a fuse instead.....
i was kidding about this statement.

inspite of what other people think, i believe that there is a lot more to it than just multipling the fuse rating by the voltage. i can guaranty my amp put out more than that. i also believe that the effiency of the amp has a lot to do with it.

 
its ohms law. amps cant make more power than they take in and noone makes a super conductor amp. fuses designed to protect the amp/wire are not just drawn out of a hat. sure you can get more power than rated fuse through a fuse but not over a great amount of time (aka longer than a 3 sec burp) aka useing a 50 amp fuse on a orion 2500d which is smaller than what would normally be recomended for there. within reason a double in power generates a 3db increase in spl (more times than not its less) 3 db is noticeable but its not "twice as loud" to seem that way takes about a 10 db increase .....

 
Was it benched in your car? If not then your not getting that much power. Fuse rating * voltage = maximum RMS power

80 amps * 12 volts = 960
You are missing one important factor here, the battery. Just because you have an 80amp alt doesn't mean you can only do 960w. Once your voltage dips into the 12's, the battery will take over and supply the needed current, up to a point. 1600w off my stock battery/alt.

 
You are missing one important factor here, the battery. Just because you have an 80amp alt doesn't mean you can only do 960w. Once your voltage dips into the 12's, the battery will take over and supply the needed current, up to a point. 1600w off my stock battery/alt.
what does this have to do with being able to power a true 500 wattish amp? lol

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

seth350

10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
Thread starter
seth350
Joined
Location
Union City,TN
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
89
Views
4,544
Last reply date
Last reply from
prochobo
IMG_20260516_193114554_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_20260516_192955471_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top