Got my box design done and some nice paint pictures/diagrams! Suggestions/opinions!!

[Syphlyn]

Hey guys you've been helping me tons and I've finally gotten around to designing/drawing my box. I'd REALLY appreciate it if you could take a look, I've included some sketches!!

Here are some measurements in torres and some ****** paint drawings (I **** with sketch-up). Hopefully you can decipher them.

***Second picture is looking down on the box in its operating position (sub up/port up)***

***Third picture is looking at it it was laying down the sub/port is facing forwards towards the bottom of the picture. The orange and green walls resemble the port walls LOOKING DOWN FROM ABOVE as if you removed the side of the box***

***Warning ****** paint pictures ahead*** ----> imgur: the simple image sharer

My only concern is posted in the last picture in pink. There's only a 2.5 inch "entry" point to the port internally is that fine or should the "back" port wall not almost extend to the opposite side of the box?

It'll go in the back of my 2000 F150 I've designed it to fit in the "40" part of my 60/40 rear with the seat lifted up. The woofer/port will be firing upwards!

Max dimensions I have to work with are:

Height: 32

Depth: 17

Width: 18

My goal is 2.25 cubes @ 30-31hz does that sound alright for a x12 on 2k? Won't be on 2k till I get my H/O alt from mechman. The sundown customer service guy said 14 sq inches of port/cubic foot I have a tiny bit more but that should be fine, at least to my knowledge.

Also I'm not sure if on the baffle if 0.66 inches is enough room on each side (shown in picture 2)

Feel free to make any suggestions/changes, this'll be my first box but I'm good with woodworking so that's not an issue.

I just wanna thank this forum and everyone who's helped me. Car audio keeps getting better and it's great to know there's many people our there willing to help and answer my dumb questions!

Love ya fellas,

-Syph

Click to read more...

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

2.5" opening at the end maintains port width, that is what you want.

.66" for the baffle is fine. I've done baffle cutouts that go slightly into the enclosure walls with no issues...

 

[Syphlyn]

2.5" opening at the end maintains port width, that is what you want.
.66" for the baffle is fine. I've done baffle cutouts that go slightly into the enclosure walls with no issues...

Someone told me having that small of a space would effectively add to my port length making my box tuned even lower, is that true?

How's that box for pushing 2k watts to this sub? Will it destroy the lows?

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

Someone told me having that small of a space would effectively add to my port length making my box tuned even lower, is that true?
How's that box for pushing 2k watts to this sub? Will it destroy the lows?

In theory "end correction factor" would add 1 1/4" more to your port length which would tune it lower. If that's an issue then you could shorten the port...

 

[Syphlyn]

In theory "end correction factor" would add 1 1/4" more to your port length which would tune it lower. If that's an issue then you could shorten the port...

Well my tuning dropped from 30.01 to 29.74 so that doesn't matter. So just to confirm once more having a small 2.5 opening to my port on the interior is fine, it's not going to limit anything?

Any other suggestions/tips on my box design and any specific to tips to the actual contruction? (What glue to use, techniques, should I glue then screw?)

-Syph

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

If your port is 2.5" wide then YES the end opening should be 2.5"

Not sure the X wants/needs tuning that low, will probably lose some upper bass output.

I've only built one enclosure for X subs, 4 15's in a 4th order. Plays down to low 20's quite well.

 

[Syphlyn]

If your port is 2.5" wide then YES the end opening should be 2.5"
Not sure the X wants/needs tuning that low, will probably lose some upper bass output.

I've only built one enclosure for X subs, 4 15's in a 4th order. Plays down to low 20's quite well.

If I change the width of the port to 2.75 my box goes to 2.25 cubic feet and 31.97hz, but then I lose my perfect 2.5 match up. If I do that any downsides to having a 2.75 port opening on the front of the box and only 2.5 on the inside? Could I just increase the width of the box by 0.25?

- Is it worth rounding the corners along the port where the air will flow by?

- Any tips on the actual construction of the box?

 

[Blue Fury 10+ year member]

The port end inside the box is too close to the wall; having it at that location would essentially add a 90° bend to it thereby increasing the length at least by the width of the wood + end correction + 1/2 90° bend radius. You'll also get turbulence at the end where the surface of the wood u-turns from outside of the port to inside. You can't change the port area to shorten the length? Or are you at your max dimensions for the entire box? And for pete's sake, make the turns into two 45° bends instead of one 90° bend.

Advice for box construction? Measure twice, cut once. Precision, precision, precision. No shortcuts.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

cut the port shorter = problem solved