Good Idea?

[Zip_Loc 10+ year member]

How would this box work:

50 inches long x 12 inches high x 7 inches deep (with a possible larger bottom depth, i.e. slanted face).

Port is 10.5 inches tall x 3 inches wide x 16 inches long

For a pair of DD 1508, think its 1.9ish after all displacements.

Now for some really dumb questions that I never thought about before this project:

1. Would Gorilla Glue work well for the joints? I have alot of it lying around, and it does expand as it dries, kinda seemed like it would work well for this application.

2. Ummm...how do you get the wires from the speaker to the amp? Port is passenger side, subs and amp driver side so I dont want to run really long wires, and dont want to use those plastic terminal things. Any other options?

3. Is it okay to have the subs all the way to the right of the box with the port on the left side? Most boxes ya'll build seem to have the port wall like right behind the subs.

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[Zip_Loc 10+ year member]

Any thoughts?

 

[scarolinablazin 10+ year member]

i get 2 before once you account for the wood thickness.

49.25x11.25x6.25/1728=2.0039876

 

[Zip_Loc 10+ year member]

i get 2 before once you account for the wood thickness.
49.25x11.25x6.25/1728=2.0039876

Yeah I took out the drivers and port displacement to get at that 1.9ish figure. The actual might be closer to 1.8. Is that going to be sufficient? I have room to go higher on the box, maybe another 2 inches.

 

[KHARPS 10+ year member]

According to re audio's calculator it's only 1.6 cubes if you're using 3/4'' material

 

[SPLEclipse 10+ year member]

1. Would Gorilla Glue work well for the joints? I have alot of it lying around, and it does expand as it dries, kinda seemed like it would work well for this application.
2. Ummm...how do you get the wires from the speaker to the amp? Port is passenger side, subs and amp driver side so I dont want to run really long wires, and dont want to use those plastic terminal things. Any other options?

3. Is it okay to have the subs all the way to the right of the box with the port on the left side? Most boxes ya'll build seem to have the port wall like right behind the subs.

according to match, i also get around 1.6 ft^3 after displacement. on to the questions:

1) GG will work just fine.

2) drill a hole and seal it w/ silicon. another option is to use a conductive screw or bolt through the back to connect the inside/outside wires.

3) its best the have the port as far away from the rear waves of the subs as possible. your design is great.

 

[Zip_Loc 10+ year member]

Yep I was an idiot and completely forgot about wood thickness. Well the back plastic panel behind the seat is coming off - for some reason Ford decided to mold intricate shapes and clearance bumps into something covering flat sheet metal, so Ill now have another 2 or so inches to go back.

Is that port size okay? I assume double surface area when doubling number of subs, but do I change the length at all?

 

[Zip_Loc 10+ year member]

Anyone? About to start building tomorrow and would like to be sure about what Im doing.

 

[Alex JB 10+ year member]

sounds like an under seat truck box, exactly what I'm building.

I've had great results so far with the single sub box with the slot port being at the other end of the box from the sub.

as for the port area and length, you'll need to use the formulae or a calculator program, the length will not be the same either.

for me one sub was at 3.4" diameter with 26" lenght, going to 2 x the same driver went to 4.8" diameter with 39" length.

Converted into slot porting that's a 4 x 2.4 port up to a 4 x 4.5 port.

You can have a copy of my spread seet witht he basic calcs in if you like, your best bet is to download winISD or use the online calculator for ports.

http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31

 

[Zip_Loc 10+ year member]

sounds like an under seat truck box, exactly what I'm building.
I've had great results so far with the single sub box with the slot port being at the other end of the box from the sub.

as for the port area and length, you'll need to use the formulae or a calculator program, the length will not be the same either.

for me one sub was at 3.4" diameter with 26" lenght, going to 2 x the same driver went to 4.8" diameter with 39" length.

Converted into slot porting that's a 4 x 2.4 port up to a 4 x 4.5 port.

You can have a copy of my spread seet witht he basic calcs in if you like, your best bet is to download winISD or use the online calculator for ports.

http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31

Thanks Ive already started the box (actually will be done soon) and its a behind-seat application in a single cab F350. But thanks for the encouragement, it made me feel alot more relieved. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif