Good 500 RMS Amp?

I think we need to ask "Are you installing this yourself?" BTW I have that exact alpine amp and it'll most likely do more than rated as alpine usually give you a birth sheet.

 
Mmmm I'm gonna need a flu shot to prevent the PPI fever being spread, amps are cheap and I question the actual power ratings and specs not being CEA certified

 
Also what does the bass knob control? Is it bass boost? Or just cutting power to the amp?
It artificially boosts a narrow range of frequencies - usually in the 45hz range. It is RARELY advantageous to add any boost to the signal.

Okay what level should I set my HEADUNIT subwoofer level at?Can I set the Headunit SUB LEVEL to max and THEN tune the amp and sub so I can turn the SUB level on the HU to 0 when I want no bass or is that bass boost?
I would set it to 75-80% and use that as the "norm". That way for the rare track that lacks some low end for some reason you can increase it slightly w/o much (any?) risk of stressing the sub, and you'll still have a lot of room to turn it down when you don't want the bass.

Question: The amp i am purchasing does not have a Sub sonic filter. Now is that a problem? the box i am going to get will most likely be around 34hz so if i did have a ssf i would set it for half octive below that which would be around 26hz.
Now since mine doesnt have a ssf how many songs will go that low? Mainly rap and dubstep for me
It's not ideal, but bass below 30hz is pretty rare. If you notice something way down low just be cautious with the volume knob.

SSF's have only gotten common in the last 10-15 yrs with the development of subwoofer specific amps. We had subs before then, and they generally got along fine w/o ssf's.

you do know that CEA doesnt mean crap right? audioque, digital designs, mmats, sundown, ct sounds, dc audio, all make more than rated and they dont give a rats @ss about CEA approval.
Sure it does. It means the amp must produce the power it says it does at 4 ohms

NOT having CEA-2006 cert either means it DOESN'T produced specified power OR it DOES but the company chose not to seek certification because they believe their reputation is proof enough.

 
Good to know! Thank you! Link? Not being CEA certified only means it is a cheap company that will not spend money for something that can benefit them among some markets and users. LOL
there are some CEAcertified amps that are poorly made though its not like its the safest decision possible i've seen some CEA amps do horrible square waves on the oscope when it tries to make its power that it states at 2 and one ohms. I put my trust behind reputable and proven/tested brands over some random CEA certified amp anyday.

 

---------- Post added at 04:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:05 PM ----------

 

it is a better threshold to start off from rather than going straight for boss, power accoustik junk.

 
Hey all, what is a decent 500 RMS amp to purchase? Anything goes, new or older to save some cash. Also would 500 RMS amp be too much for a 400 RMS Kicker L3? I figured if i get a slightly bigger amp and have the gain 3/4 instead of all the way up it will cut down the heat.
Im leaning towards an MRV-M500 since they can be bought pretty cheap now. Thoughts?
That sub can take 500 rms safely possibly more but I'm not sure.

 
My favorite amp for PPI P1000.1 or Soundstream TN1.1050D. You get about 600watt RMS power at 4ohm and 1000watts at 2ohms (the PPI is rated for less, but it was underrated). Both cost under $200 online. Very compact profile and they run barely warm. Don't worry about powering a lower power subwoofer with one of these. If the power ratings don't let you sleep well, just set gain level carefully with a DMM.

Another amp I like is the 2-channel PPI P600.2 and Soundstream TN2.600D. These are 2-channel class D amps. Very small. Online price ~$150. 600watt RMS output when bridged, but only 4ohm stable. I had great experience with these PPI amps, so I'd take them over Alpine.

 
2 ohm load? 500 watt @ 2ohms, 1 ohm stable 800watts for cooler operation and future upgrade, class D, retail $200, street price $150, only 10" by 7" GM-D8601 - Class D Mono Amplifier with Wired Bass Boost Remote | Pioneer Electronics USA
Just bought one of these off Amazon for 125 shipped and have it on a couple of single 4 ohm Boston g1 12's. I've always had really good luck with Pioneer amps and this one is no exception. Nicely built and though I probably will never clamp it I would guess it's slightly underrated. Boston g1's are great budget subs too OP. They're not making them anymore so they're going to start getting scarce soon.

 
there are some CEAcertified amps that are poorly made though its not like its the safest decision possible i've seen some CEA amps do horrible square waves on the oscope when it tries to make its power that it states at 2 and one ohms. I put my trust behind reputable and proven/tested brands over some random CEA certified amp anyday. 

---------- Post added at 04:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:05 PM ----------

 

it is a better threshold to start off from rather than going straight for boss, power accoustik junk.
I know, I went through that myself with a 2006 big amp I still use compared to some similar class D amps 1/3 of the size from very large and reputable companies costing twice as much and many good reviews, their ratings are given at 14 volts and still my old one with peak ratings of 400 watts less than the newer class D amps simply had way more easy to notice power that could not only be heard but also felt.

I guess I'm being infected with the PPI fever due to some experiences posted by credible and experienced members on different forums.

Just bought one of these off Amazon for 125 shipped and have it on a couple of single 4 ohm Boston g1 12's. I've always had really good luck with Pioneer amps and this one is no exception. Nicely built and though I probably will never clamp it I would guess it's slightly underrated. Boston g1's are great budget subs too OP. They're not making them anymore so they're going to start getting scarce soon.
Great thanks for sharing that, sounds like pioneer really stteped in to play hard ball and offers great value too.

 
To clarify a few things, OP...

There is nothing wrong with using the bass knob. In fact, it's very helpful and handy as the head unit subwoofer control is usually in a menu and can't be readily accessed. And yes, it attenuates the signal to the sub amp just like a volume control.

When you set your gain, have the head unit subwoofer control set to max and your bass knob set to max unless you're setting with a o-scope, a DD-1 or known accurate clipping indicator on the amp or bass knob.

What you don't want to use is the bass boost knob on the amplifier.

 
Great thanks for sharing that, sounds like pioneer really stteped in to play hard ball and offers great value too
I think my favorite amp to date was an older RF T1000 I got off CL for 100 bucks. I loved it! But I had better electrical in my car at that time. Now I only run around 500 or less. Only have an 8 gauge amp kit in the car and too lazy to change it. Lol! Besides if you get a decent set-up with a couple 10s or 12s in a good custom ported box the output going from 500rms to 1000 rms isn't that much by ear anyway.

 
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