Going CRAZY trying to figure this out

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Humpty
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So I have a 2005 crew cab silverado. I have a 15" L7 kicker sub wired at 2ohm, it is rated at 1000w rms. I have an alpine mrp-m2000 amp, wired with 0 gauge stinger kit with a 175amp fuse. I have done the Big 3 in 0 gauge and I have just installed a 320a HO Tenney Alternator. My Hu is a JVC avx840.

Now with my bass boost off on the amp and deck and bass levels normal in the settings I can only turn the volume up until about 20 after that the sub starts to cut out intermittantly. If i turn the volume or the bass down a little then the sub will continue to play. When the sub cuts out the amp light is still on.

It is driving me crazy trying to figure this out. I have dropped alot of money on this setup and still cannot fully enjoy it. I have the day off tomorrow so I would like to get at this problem and see if I can't figure it out. Any ideas what the problem could be or anything that I could check on or try? Im starting to lose sleep over this...

 
self tapped a screw through the floor of the cab. When i tested it with the DMM it read 0 ohms.

Should I be drilling a hole in the floor and grounding to the frame?

 
check the volts at the amp? If the volts are low its a power issue? if the volts are okay its an amp issue?

I originally thought it was a power issue that why I ended up getting a HO alt, but nothing changed when I put that in.

 
check the volts at the amp? If the volts are low its a power issue? if the volts are okay its an amp issue?I originally thought it was a power issue that why I ended up getting a HO alt, but nothing changed when I put that in.
yes ,i've seen issues like this in the past with the mrp amps,thats why i dont sell them

 
the amp is mounted to the back wall, I glued some mdf to the cab wall and screwed to that. I took the right rear seat out and built a box the stands where the seat was. The box is mounted down using the seat bolts and a plywood platform and a ton of screws. Also zip tied to the baby seat brackets. The amp is about 6-8 inches from the box. Everything is real secure.

 
Ok I will check the voltage at the amp when the subs cut out and report back. I'm just praying that it is not the amp.

thanks for the advice

 
when checking voltage - there are two things you are looking for:

measure DC Voltage at amp batt and rem terminals relative to the amp gnd terminal. you are looking for >12VDC

measure AC voltage at the amp speaker output terminals ( red on + and black on -). the value will vary as the signal varies, so test tones (50Hz) are handy to get a constant signal. if the VAC drops when the amp cuts out - then disconnect the speaker wires and try again.

sometimes a slight short can do this. that's one speaker wire strand (+) separated by a small distance from another (-). this can be in the box at the sub terminals or box terminals. also review all speaker wire connections - as a general rule - if you can see any bare copper - you should redo it.

 
self tapped a screw through the floor of the cab. When i tested it with the DMM it read 0 ohms.Should I be drilling a hole in the floor and grounding to the frame?
It would be a better grounding point to run a ground wire to the frame.I had to do for my 99 Honda CRV/no real solid grounding point,so i drilled through the tire well, and ran ground wire to rearend frame/bolted it in place, and hit it with black paint when I finished the connection.Yet, do check your speaker connections on your subs inside the box,they could be loose as stated.I also had a bad connection on my remote wire once that did that as well in one of my systems in the past.

 
ok again thanks for all the comments and support, I will pull the sub out and check all wiring and run some voltage tests. I will post my findings when completed.

Thanks again!!!

 
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