Fusing second batt 3 ft away?

[Phlipbak 10+ year member]

I'm adding a BatCap 2000 to my stock setup, should I 300A fuse it even though my stock batt is in trunk?

It will be no more than 3-5 ft away MAX..

And my AQ2200D needs a 300A inline fuse too, but how big of a inline fuse should I use for my soon-to-be-bought SAX 100.4?

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[loopkiller 10+ year member]

Always fuse every positive (+) wire longer than 18 inches. When they say 18 inches, they really mean a wire that is long enough to touch anything else metal in the car should it happen to fall out at one end. The other reason is if it is a much longer wire, it may get pinched or cut in an accident. Both scenarios create an instant dead short which will lead to a nasty fire.

 

[Phlipbak 10+ year member]

Ok sweet thanks

 

[skmfkr 5,000+ posts]

200a for the amp not 300a

 

[AcidikBass20 10+ year member]

What size wire? I'm running 0g and running 300a fuses close of all the batteries on the positive side. Check out the build log. Your gonna love the BC2000, I just got 4.

 

[Phlipbak 10+ year member]

200a for the amp not 300a

Says in the manual 300A and shows a diagram with a 300A.

 

[Phlipbak 10+ year member]

What size wire? I'm running 0g and running 300a fuses close of all the batteries on the positive side. Check out the build log. Your gonna love the BC2000, I just got 4.

Nice dude.. I'm working on getting some 1/0.. I bought like 50 feet from DBDesignsElite but you know as good as I do that SIX MONTHS LATER I am still wireless.

 

[skmfkr 5,000+ posts]

go look at the website and all my fuses are 200a

 

[mustang76cnb 10+ year member]

Fuse it always a safe way to go.

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

ALWAYS FUSE BASED ON THE WIRE, NOT THE LOAD!

Why is that? I will give you this example. Let's say today you have an amp(s) that pull exactly 190a. You could use a 200a fuse today. Now let's assume that someday down the road you wanted to add another amp or something. You would now have to buy another set of fuses. If your wire is rated at 300a, simply buy 300a fuses. If your wire is rated at 150a, buy 150a fuses.

Inline fuses are there to protect the wire not the equipment. There are fuses in your amps that protect the amps. Inline fuses only have one purpose, to protect the wire in case of a short. That is all. End of story.

These people who tell you to buy smaller fuses are right that a smaller fuse will work, however they are just short sighted. How many people do you know run the same exact setup for years? None that I know.

 

[jco1385 5,000+ posts]

my mtx amp has no internal fuse, and has 1/0 inputs. it says to put a 150a inline. essentially telling me to fuse a 1/0 wire at 150a to protect the amp.

 

[DidUHearThat? 10+ year member]

ALWAYS FUSE BASED ON THE WIRE, NOT THE LOAD!
Why is that? I will give you this example. Let's say today you have an amp(s) that pull exactly 190a. You could use a 200a fuse today. Now let's assume that someday down the road you wanted to add another amp or something. You would now have to buy another set of fuses. If your wire is rated at 300a, simply buy 300a fuses. If your wire is rated at 150a, buy 150a fuses.

Inline fuses are there to protect the wire not the equipment. There are fuses in your amps that protect the amps. Inline fuses only have one purpose, to protect the wire in case of a short. That is all. End of story.

These people who tell you to buy smaller fuses are right that a smaller fuse will work, however they are just short sighted. How many people do you know run the same exact setup for years? None that I know.

IMO, you should fuse to which ever is less, the load or the wire rating. Minimum fuse size adds a safety margin to the system. There is no point in having a 300A fuse if all your system will ever draw is 200 amps. Even if the wire can handle 300A. If you want a bigger fuse in the future, then buy new fuses. They're cheap.

Fuses protect the wire first, but they also provide protection for the system, the car and you. It's an overall system design, balancing saftey and reliability not just a wire issue.

The circuit breakers in your home are rated to protect the wire, but they also protect the outlets, the appliances, your home and you.

 

[jco1385 5,000+ posts]

^^ that is my method

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

IMO, you should fuse to which ever is less, the load or the wire rating. Minimum fuse size adds a safety margin to the system. There is no point in having a 300A fuse if all your system will ever draw is 200 amps. Even if the wire can handle 300A. If you want a bigger fuse in the future, then buy new fuses. They're cheap.
Fuses protect the wire first, but they also provide protection for the system, the car and you. It's an overall system design, balancing saftey and reliability not just a wire issue.

The circuit breakers in your home are rated to protect the wire, but they also protect the outlets, the appliances, your home and you.

What you are saying makes no sense. If you have a short, it will not take any longer for a 300a fuse to blow that it would for the 150a fuse to blow. A dead short in any car would be instantly well over 500a of current. So the only reason why you would use a smaller fuse is if you want to limit yourself down the road. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/verymad.gif.3f39c5c2fd57527b671fad3efdfac756.gif

 

[DidUHearThat? 10+ year member]

What you are saying makes no sense. If you have a short, it will not take any longer for a 300a fuse to blow that it would for the 150a fuse to blow. A dead short in any car would be instantly well over 500a of current. So the only reason why you would use a smaller fuse is if you want to limit yourself down the road. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/verymad.gif.3f39c5c2fd57527b671fad3efdfac756.gif

Clearly you don't understand the concept of system design. A larger fuse will take longer to blow and pass more current before it blows. A fuse that is rated at the maximum current draw (but less than cable capacity) will provide maximum protection to the wire and car. The difference between 200A and 300A is 50%. In a dead short situtation that could mean the difference between a small burn mark and a totally burnt car.

No one is forcing you to do anything. I stated my opinion and that is how others prefer to do it as well.

There is no limit in the future. If you add more components in the future you simply adjust the fuse sizes to fit the new load. Fuses are cheap ($1-$3). Car fires due to aftermarket wiring is going to be real expensive.

Do you think this guy is glad he saved $1 on fuses?