Fusing question

[Kenyanbasshead]

So i decided last minute to change a few things in my build.

The one i am now stuck on is as follows:

I was going to power my subwoofer amp with 1 run of 0gauge. But i got a good deal on a double powerblock.

So i am able to do 2 runs of 0 gauge to the postive of my amp and 2 runs of 0 gauge for ground.

My amp requires 300amp fuse. I had already bought quite a few 300a fuses.

Now because i am doing double runs do i now fuse each run with 150a or do fuse both runs with the 300a fuses i already have?

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[beatzboi]

You should be fusing each wire for max (350a-copper, 300a-cca) draw, and fusing at amp. So all in all you should have 3 fuses there.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

300 OFC

250 CCA

If it's real wire

 

[Kenyanbasshead]

300 OFC 250 CCA

If it's real wire

The amp manual says the amp needs to be fused with a 300a fuse. So i had bought a **** load of fuses a head of time. But now that i changed this wiring slightly....

Battery bank to amp is not even a meter.

I bought that power block that takes two 0awg wires and brings it to 1 0gauge so that the amp can take the juice easier.

But do i still fuse with two 300a fuses between batts and amp or do i now do two fuses of 150a????

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Again depends on the wire..

Is it OFC 1/0 or CCA 1/0.

 

[Kenyanbasshead]

Again depends on the wire..
Is it OFC 1/0 or CCA 1/0.

Its ofc.

Amp has 1 input of 0gauge. And requirs a ANL 300amp fuse. But now that i am putting two runs of 0gauge do i fuse both runs with 300amp fuse or both runs with 150amp fuse?

 

[Kenyanbasshead]

Anyone?

 

[BSchrowang]

Both runs should be 300 amp fuses. (300 on each). You are supposed to fuse to the wire size, not to the power draw.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Again.. Fuse for the wire rating.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Both runs should be 300 amp fuses. (300 on each). You are supposed to fuse to the wire size, not to the power draw.

You can fuse UP TO the maximum safe current of each wire, but there's nothing that says your fuses HAVE to be that big. The point of having the fuse there is to protect against a fire. 150A fuse on each wire would give you the most protection while still providing adequate current for the amp.

 

[Kenyanbasshead]

You can fuse UP TO the maximum safe current of each wire, but there's nothing that says your fuses HAVE to be that big. The point of having the fuse there is to protect against a fire. 150A fuse on each wire would give you the most protection while still providing adequate current for the amp.

Ok again mixed answers and thats what i am scared about.

The amp manual says to protect the AMP incase of a short or power surge with a 300amp fuse.

From my battery to amp is maybe a foot or 2. So the chance of fire between there is i think minimal. But i want to fuse regardless. So fusing 2 runs with 300 is ok. But fusing both runs with 150 is better?

Sorry if i come across as an idiot but im trying to learn and hearing different answers just confuses me...

Thanks for any input.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Ok again mixed answers and thats what i am scared about.
The amp manual says to protect the AMP incase of a short or power surge with a 300amp fuse.

From my battery to amp is maybe a foot or 2. So the chance of fire between there is i think minimal. But i want to fuse regardless. So fusing 2 runs with 300 is ok. But fusing both runs with 150 is better?

Sorry if i come across as an idiot but im trying to learn and hearing different answers just confuses me...

Thanks for any input.

I'm one of the few people around here that applies a little thought to the car audio process.

Chances are, if something happened IN the amp that blows the fuses the amp will already be smoked anyway. The fuses in the wire do very little for the amp.

Regardless, the manual says to use 300 and logic (in terms of degree of protection) says to use 300A (2x150). Using 300x2 just because the wire is large enough for it doesn't make it the best choice.

 

[Kenyanbasshead]

I'm one of the few people around here that applies a little thought to the car audio process.
Chances are, if something happened IN the amp that blows the fuses the amp will already be smoked anyway. The fuses in the wire do very little for the amp.

Regardless, the manual says to use 300 and logic (in terms of degree of protection) says to use 300A (2x150). Using 300x2 just because the wire is large enough for it doesn't make it the best choice.

Thank you so much for your answer. Im then going to fuse each run of positive (2x) with 150a each. Cheers.

 

[Kenyanbasshead]

I'm one of the few people around here that applies a little thought to the car audio process.
Chances are, if something happened IN the amp that blows the fuses the amp will already be smoked anyway. The fuses in the wire do very little for the amp.

Regardless, the manual says to use 300 and logic (in terms of degree of protection) says to use 300A (2x150). Using 300x2 just because the wire is large enough for it doesn't make it the best choice.

Well just to clarify. The amp has 1 input for 0gauge for + and 1 input for 0gauge for ground. I bought a power block reducer so that i can now run 2 runs of 0gauge for + and 2 runs of 0 gauge for ground.

If i used the single run of 0 gauge i would need a 300amp fuse.

Now that im using two runs does the current get devided? Meaning 2x150.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

How do you plan to connect two 1/0's to an amp if it only has one power/ground connection.

What brand/model amp?