Fuse raing vs watts?

[Haunz 10+ year member]

don't get mad cuz i make you eat your words everytime you open your cawk sucker...and I bash AP on here daily noob... learn to read better next time

you have never, and will never make me eat any words... nice try though...

I guess you also missed the sarcasm in my post... I take it that a lot of things go over your head... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

& my amp..??
Mutant MT1500 XXX

1500wrms @ 1ohm ...with a 150A external fuse rating..??

am i to assume this amp has the ability to produce 1500wrms but im not gonna see that due to efficiency..??

maybe... maybe not... depends on the actual efficiency of the amp

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

interestingly enough, my buddy has an Alpine or something that is supposed to do the same power @ 2 and 1 ohm - ~900w... well on a d4 15 @ 2 he dropped to low 13's and high 12's, we swapped out for a dual 2 15 @ 1 ohm (diff box, may matter in this case, less imp rise), and the voltage is honestly dropping to mid 10's and going into protect... Albeit the reading was coming from a digital readout on a cap but anywho... efficiency is very important

That's because it takes more amperage to make the same wattage at 1 ohm compared to 2 ohms. The low resistance (impedance) makes it harder for the amp to move the speakers compared to 2 or 4 ohms, thus more current draw at lower ohm load.

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

and also higher voltage requires less amps for the same output...

look at the math formula...

thats why it is a general guideline only.. just to get a rough idea... the only real way to tell what an amp puts out is to clamp it...

 

[d2k 10+ year member]

and also higher voltage requires less amps for the same output...
look at the math formula...

thats why it is a general guideline only.. just to get a rough idea... the only real way to tell what an amp puts out is to clamp it...

how do you ''clamp'' an amp..??, does it require special tools..???

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

technically nothing special

a dmm that reads high amperages will work fine..

they call it "clamping" because the meter has a "clamp" lol

it is in the sticky under electrical I am sure //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[d2k 10+ year member]

technically nothing special
a dmm that reads high amperages will work fine..

they call it "clamping" because the meter has a "clamp" lol

it is in the sticky under electrical I am sure //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

cheers ...... i'll have a look, would be quite interesting to see what my amp actually puts out @ different voltages. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

you will need a clamping dmm and a dmm it isn't hard just too tired to explain it in detail lol

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

and also higher voltage requires less amps for the same output...
look at the math formula...

thats why it is a general guideline only.. just to get a rough idea... the only real way to tell what an amp puts out is to clamp it...

Yes, if you follow Ohm's law. However, the old SoundStream amps and several other amps either have a switch, or automatically switch into "high current" mode.

JL amps automatically adjust to the ohm load so they don't overheat.

Lower ohm = higher current draw, period. You can't increase the voltage past ~14.4V unless you have a high voltage charging system + battery. It takes more "force" or current to move the speaker at low ohm (high load), voltage is "potential energy"...... Think of a lake representing voltage, the bigger the lake the more voltage. The current is the size of a river, the larger a river, the higher the current.

P.S. "Clamping" an amp only requires an amp meter in line with a single power wire. The other necessary measurement is voltage. Voltage * amperage * resistance = wattage. (most people forget about resistance/impedance) for actual wattage at the speaker.

 

[Wingman0121 10+ year member]

The old school USA-2000X calls for a 300 amp external fuse and it's rated to do 2000 watts but we all know it does more like 3000 watts. My Audiopipe came with I think a 250 or 300 amp fuse too and it's rated to do 3000 watts.

Do realize that the fuses used in car audio amplifiers are technically "slow-blow" fuses, meaning a 20-amp fuse won't blow at 21 amps, it'll take more like 30 or a bit more.

If all the car audio companies are honest about their rated power output then we wouldn't have to worry about fuse ratings.