front to rear neg. wire runs ????'s

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='jockhater2']I ran 3 runs of positive and 3 runs of negative.
why. because @mylows10 ; said it's what everyone at competitions do.[/QUOTE]

Just for a quick reference.

That bold part...do not ever trust. 99% of what many of use have done or will do in the lanes should not be done for daily.

I'm not saying this is the case with the wiring, just the general idea of if they do it in the lanes it's ok for daily thought process.

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

Just for a quick reference.
That bold part...do not ever trust. 99% of what many of use have done or will do in the lanes should not be done for daily.

I'm not saying this is the case with the wiring, just the general idea of if they do it in the lanes it's ok for daily thought process.

What, you mean running 9000 watts to one 10" and having 6 batteries with 200 feet of unfused 1/0 isn't ok for daily? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

What, you mean running 9000 watts to one 10" and having 6 batteries with 200 feet of unfused 1/0 isn't ok for daily? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Depends, how good is your insurance? lol

Oh, and don't forget about running the amp at .0001 ohm with rise to .001 and clipping at about 40%.

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

Depends, how good is your insurance? lol

*reads over policy*

 

[dumpbeast86 10+ year member]

As stated, comparing a vehicle to heavy equipment is not even in the same league. One of the main reasons being that the frames on those vehicles are SUBSTANTIALLY thicker and larger than a normal vehicle. Thus they are built to handle the current. And thats why I also stated that if you have a full frame vehicle with upgraded underhood wiring then most likely a direct negative lead isn't necessary. But for unibody cars, which is a lot of them, chances are good that a full 1/0 run from the alternator to the rear can help. This is, of course, if the other criteria are met.
People who have massive banks of batts in the back aren't going to benefit as much, if at all, from upgraded wiring because a majority of their capacity is coming from the rear bank and not from the alt or front battery.

When I mean "load a ground", I mean that you have to actually pull current through the material in order to determine if it's a sufficient ground for the equipment you are trying to run. Just because the continuity is low doesn't mean that it's capable of handling the "load" you want to put on it.

On top of that, the equipment you are trying to run will also react differently. On heavy equipment you are running generators or pumps or other industrial machinery and electronics built ridiculously tough to handle the environment. In a vehicle we are running sensitive electronics that can completely burn up if you drop the voltage too low or send a bad signal. I've personally had amps go into protect (luckily) because of a bad ground that was sufficient for the amp I was running previously.

I don't run a chassis ground in my daily driver and that setup is capable of 3kw. Direct 1/0 leads from the front battery/alternator to the rear batteries. Then again I come from an SPL competition background where every tenth (of a volt and of a dB) counts, so I might do things a little differently than your average consumer.

FYI, what do YOU think the originating ground point is? HINT: It's not the chassis. The chassis is just a medium for the battery/alternator, which is why the "shorter the better" ground theory is just a myth. People who add wiring most likely aren't going to gain any voltage if what they had before was sufficient. What they are trying to gain is CAPACITY. If you have a 300 amp alt up front along with a good size battery, one long run of 1/0 isn't going to handle that much current without resistance. This is why multiple runs benefit those people. They aren't going for a voltage increase. I can run one run of 8 gauge and have the same voltage as my 2 runs of 1/0.

There are people on both sides of the fence here. Ones that gained (quite a lot in some cases) and ones that didn't. I'm under the "more is better" group. It really all just boils down to the vehicle, equipment and the person hooking everything up. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Summary: If you have the money, do it. It certainly won't hurt. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

sorry man, but this is full of technical fail. but to each, his own

 

[splwj47 10+ year member]

*reads over policy*

im gonna have a 300 amp alt up front along with a optima blutop, and 4 batcap 3ks or 4ks in the rear. running 8krms. my jeep is a unibody. what is the best wiring option for myself?

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

sorry man, but this is full of technical fail. but to each, his own

Please elaborate. I'm all for learning something new. I took the time to post up what I know, you can do the same. That's how others can learn.

What part do you not agree with? What are your facts to back that up?

You can't just say "you're wrong" without at least divulging a little technical info.

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

im gonna have a 300 amp alt up front along with a optima blutop, and 4 batcap 3ks or 4ks in the rear. running 8krms. my jeep is a unibody. what is the best wiring option for myself?

Well, how far are you willing to go? It's better to have too much than not enough.

I'd start with 2 runs of 1/0 for positive, 1 run for negative, 1 chassis ground in back and upgrade all the underhood wiring. That's a good amount of capacity.

 

[splwj47 10+ year member]

Well, how far are you willing to go? It's better to have too much than not enough.
I'd start with 2 runs of 1/0 for positive, 1 run for negative, 1 chassis ground in back and upgrade all the underhood wiring. That's a good amount of capacity.

i was gonna do 3 runs of pos. but i suppose i could just do 2 runs pos and 2 runs neg and 2 chassis grounds in the rear. all stock wiring is upgraded already.

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

i was gonna do 3 runs of pos. but i suppose i could just do 2 runs pos and 2 runs neg and 2 chassis grounds in the rear. all stock wiring is upgraded already.

Hey, the more the merrier. But you want to have equal capacity in both directions so you don't have a bottleneck somewhere. You have a good amount of battery power in the back so 2 runs of positive is pretty stout. Having 3 runs of positive with only 1 negative and then chassis grounds is a little lopsided, especially on a unibody car.

 

[splwj47 10+ year member]

Hey, the more the merrier. But you want to have equal capacity in both directions so you don't have a bottleneck somewhere. You have a good amount of battery power in the back so 2 runs of positive is pretty stout. Having 3 runs of positive with only 1 negative and then chassis grounds is a little lopsided, especially on a unibody car.

ya im just gonna do 2 runs for everything. thanks for the help man, appriciate it.

 

[Chriszle 10+ year member]

I have to agree with tommyk until disproved.

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

You had other issues if you gained that much on a burp, especially with a batt bank in the rear.
My last car had 1 run of 1/0 POS to the back and 12 batts in the rear. I went to 4 runs of 1/0 and gained .1v at the rear and zero on the meter.

cool story

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

ya im just gonna do 2 runs for everything. thanks for the help man, appriciate it.

overkill it. That is what I did. I only needed 2 runs for 5k.

But I did 3. in case I ever decide to up power. i don't have to tear the interior apart again.

Overkill is always better //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[splwj47 10+ year member]

I have to agree with tommyk until disproved.

agreed, ill take tommyk's advise over some newbs anyday. until other proof is brought to the table.