Ford Ranger - Two PSI Lvl 4 15s - Ampere 7500.1 - To Wall or Not To Wall

[lance9386 10+ year member]

So, its been a long time! Haven't been into car audio for 10+ years.

Last setup was two RE SeXXX 12s on an Orion 2500d - did 149db..

Here is what I have to work with:

1996 Ford Ranger ext. cab

Two PSI Platform 4 HP 15s

Ampere Audio 7500.1

One XS D3400 and Two XS D3100s

Iraggi 240 amp alternator

I know my electrical isn't quite enough for the amp... but it's a start.

I am in the design phase and trying to determine how I want to build the box. In the past I always loved subs up, port up.. I'm not concerned with staying under the window line.. I will not be trying to stay in certain classes to be competitive in SPL comps..

This system will be used for music and demos, probably with a tuning around 32hz.

I'm looking for some feedback on wall vs. up-firing vs. sub-forward / port up/forward..

Any of you guys have experience with a wall in a ranger with two 15s? I'm leaning towards up-firing, but I have an open mind.. any suggestions welcomed.

Looking forward to getting back in the game..

Click to read more...

 

[ashren315]

Up firing will work but be prepared to brace your roof otherwise anything over 145 dbs is going to start causing it to cave inward. At least, that's what happened with mine with 6 15s.

 

[kr15 5,000+ posts]

Subs forward, port side or up. Non wall

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

@CSCStang can hook you up with a below the window line design for two 15s thats proven to do 154s with windows down on a ranger.

 

[lance9386 10+ year member]

[quote name='ashren315']Up firing will work but be prepared to brace your roof otherwise anything over 145 dbs is going to start causing it to cave inward. At least, that's what happened with mine with 6 15s.[/QUOTE]

Yeah I figured that'd be a good idea.. I have the truck stripped right now just for that..

---------- Post added at 11:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:11 PM ----------

[quote name='Jeffdachef']@CSCStang can hook you up with a below the window line design for two 15s thats proven to do 154s with windows down on a ranger.[/QUOTE]

That sounds awesome, very interested I'll look him up.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Up firing will work but be prepared to brace your roof otherwise anything over 145 dbs is going to start causing it to cave inward. At least, that's what happened with mine with 6 15s.

believe it or not thats not the main problem area. The problem area for those rangers is blowing out the back window and rear wall flex lmao.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

with windows down on a ranger.

Window open is pretty much the secret to getting loud in a pickup.

Really, OP, if you're not chasing 10ths I doubt subs and port up is going to be audibly much different than subs up and port to the side (which is typically what folks use in extended cabs)... Of course if you are chasing 10ths 32hz tuning is probably not the way forward. The point being if you have an idea that'll look good or that you just want to try don't feel constrained to what we say. IMO no need to wall for such little cone area.

 

[ashren315]

believe it or not thats not the main problem area. The problem area for those rangers is blowing out the back window and rear wall flex lmao.

Especially if you have the rear sliding glass window. However, bracing the rear wall and window was (for me anyway) a far easier task than bracing the roof on that thing was.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Especially if you have the rear sliding glass window. However, bracing the rear wall and window was (for me anyway) a far easier task than bracing the roof on that thing was.

he had wood braced, deadener and tennis balls and it still became jello. The roof didnt give him as much issues.

https://www.facebook.com/camille.martinez.73/videos/1251640281560946/

actually in stang's silverado, it was the same issue. The roof was super easy compared to the rear window...

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Window open is pretty much the secret to getting loud in a pickup.

he's only 151 sealed. windows down 154... instant 3 db gain.

 

[lance9386 10+ year member]

Window open is pretty much the secret to getting loud in a pickup.
Really, OP, if you're not chasing 10ths I doubt subs and port up is going to be audibly much different than subs up and port to the side (which is typically what folks use in extended cabs)... Of course if you are chasing 10ths 32hz tuning is probably not the way forward. The point being if you have an idea that'll look good or that you just want to try don't feel constrained to what we say. IMO no need to wall for such little cone area.

Yeah I'm definitely not chasing 10ths with this setup.. that's sort of what I was thinking about the wall. Just didn't seem to make sense, but that's why I asked. Appreciate the responses.

 

[lance9386 10+ year member]

believe it or not thats not the main problem area. The problem area for those rangers is blowing out the back window and rear wall flex lmao.

I still have the tennis balls in between my cab and bed from 10+ years ago lol... this time I'll be adding wood to the back wall. Not sure how to brace the back window though, I have the sliding rear window.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Yeah I'm definitely not chasing 10ths with this setup.. that's sort of what I was thinking about the wall. Just didn't seem to make sense, but that's why I asked. Appreciate the responses.

The ONLY thing a wall does for you is removes the issue of the back window which will definitely be problematic for you. Though if you're walling you'd want 2 18's probably so you can get the box big enough to not have issues getting needed port depth.

 

[lance9386 10+ year member]

So I've slowly been working on the truck.. bed liner on the floor, started on roof bracing, etc.. (I'm going to start a build thread soon and start posting pictures). Originally I planned on placing my batteries in the back of the truck. The way this truck is built, there is a hump that runs along the rear of the cab that is 5" higher than the floor. So to get a level surface to mount the box on I have to build a floor. No problem.. but it got me thinking, why not come up a little bit higher with the floor and run my batteries under there? The height on the D3100 is roughly 8.5" so I would need to increase the floor height 4 or 5 inches. What I don't know is how this will affect the bass response, this will put the subs and port firing off of the roof with a distance of about 10" between the two. I know generally you want a port's width distance away from a surface.. Thoughts?

CSCStang, this isn't using the box design from you, this is testing with one that I already have from a past system. With the new dimensions, the space would be 14" without the port extension and about 9" with the port extension for distance between port and roof.