Focal / Hertz & AudioControl build help

[koakine88]

Aloha,
I am in the process of planning my 3rd gen tacoma audio upgrade. It is a non-JBL system, and I'm looking for high-quality sound and the ability to hold it at high volumes. I don't need a ton of bass for the type of music I listen to and am not looking to rattle my truck apart. The subwoofer setup I end up installing will be just to fill in some bass. The following is the system I am considering and am looking for help in swaying my decision on how to set my system up with the different channel options available.

Overall, I plan on spending about what I would doing the OEM Audio+ kit, but doing it myself with high-end products. *roughly $2-$3k total

Front Component set:
Focal ES 165K (4 ohm - 100 RMS) $850 or Hertz MLK 165.3 (4 ohm - 150 RMS) $800. I am undecided between these two speakers, I like the power handling of the Hertz, but there seems to be more popularity with the Focals. I believe either will sound great.
Amplifier / DSP combination:
AudioControl D-6.1200 / This is a 6 channel DSP amp that puts out 125W RMS @ 6 channels or 400W RMS @ 3 Channels. $1,100. I've heard that this company puts out high-quality stuff and like the price and simplicity of a combined unit versus a $600 DSP and another high-end amp. *DSP is required because I am not giving up my factory 8" head unit.
Rear Speakers:
Decent coaxials, that will pair decently with either the Focals or Hertz (undecided). Or just a rear speaker delete. Expecting to pay about $200-500
Subwoofer:
Either a single 12" or single 10" amp behind drivers rear seat in enclosure. (Not worried about the subwoofer yet) Expecting to pay about $300-600

Here are the options I am considering:

Option 1: Active setup with external sub power
Channel 1 & 2: Active front tweeters (125w RMS)
Channel 3 & 4: Active 6.5 woofers (125w RMS)
Channel 5 & 6: Rear coaxial speakers (125w RMS)
DSP sending signal to external sub amp
*More expensive with 2nd amp, more adjustability to active front stage, too much power to tweeters? risk of damaging tweeters if I mess up settings?

Option 2: Passive setup with external sub power
Channel 1/2 & 3/4: Bridged front component stage (400w RMS)
Channel 5 & 6: Rear coaxial speakers (125w RMS)
DSP sending signal to external sub amp
*More expensive with 2nd amp, less adjustability but tons of power to front stage

Option 3: Rear speaker delete bridged
Channel 1/2 & 3/4: Bridged entire front component stage (400w RMS)
Channel 5 & 6: Single subwoofer (400w RMS)
*Easy install, enough power for subwoofer and tons of power for front stage, loss of active control, no rear stage, cheapest with no extra amp or rear speakers

Option 4: Rear speaker delete active
Channel 1 & 2: Active front tweeters (125w RMS)
Channel 3 & 4: Active 6.5 woofers (125w RMS)
Channel 5 & 6: Single subwoofer (400w RMS)
*Easy install, adjustability with DSP, no rear stage, cheapest no extra amp or rear speakers

I'm leaning towards Option 4: The cost of adding rear coaxials that can keep up with the front stage seems to be a waste of money with no much return. I also will get to maximize the use of features with my expensive DSP amp, being able to digitally adjust the active frequencies to the tweeters and 6.5 woofers. I will be having plenty of power going to the front stage as well (I think) and won't be overloading the amp. Am I crazy, or actually making sense here?


What makes the most sense to you?

-Tyler

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[BCotrell]

Consider a fix86. That d6.1200 is expensive for a dsp and 6 channels of amp power that won’t leave you with a ton of juice for your substage. Fix86 is $450 or so and Then you can buy solid monoblock and 4 Channel amps to suit your budget

it’s a mid size truck and your front stage will get loud as hell on active. Those component sets are good but if you’re going active you may be paying a good portion of money for crossovers that you’re not going to use. Perhaps others on here can recommend separate tweeters and 6.5’s.

better to buy a separate sub amp so you have lots of flexibility on amps and subs not just parameter of what sounds good on 400 watts. What if it’s not enough right?

 

[koakine88]

Consider a fix86. That d6.1200 is expensive for a dsp and 6 channels of amp power that won’t leave you with a ton of juice for your substage. Fix86 is $450 or so and Then you can buy solid monoblock and 4 Channel amps to suit your budget

it’s a mid size truck and your front stage will get loud as hell on active. Those component sets are good but if you’re going active you may be paying a good portion of money for crossovers that you’re not going to use. Perhaps others on here can recommend separate tweeters and 6.5’s.

better to buy a separate sub amp so you have lots of flexibility on amps and subs not just parameter of what sounds good on 400 watts. What if it’s not enough right?

Yeah, I should definitely look into the Fix86 more. I see that it can network on bluetooth with their amps for more control. Unfortunately, I plan on installing just one subwoofer and at most that I've been looking at has been 400W RMS (which would fall right within the range I have with bridging). My subwoofer placement is behind the rear seats in a small area, so I'm limited on how crazy of a subwoofer system I can even go with. Yeah, just letting the crossovers sit and collect dust seems like a bit of a shame, but with the tuneability of a DSP, why even use them? Am I missing anything else about the difference in using the component crossover versus controlling the active setup through the DSP? What do you mean by "loud as hell on active". Will the trouble of having tweeters on their own channel not be worth it? *My biggest lack of knowledge is definitely in what the difference would be in the active vs out of box crossover setup.

My biggest excitement, despite the AudioControl DSP AMP being expensive, is that it's all just one big unit for a cleaner install, and the options and control it gives seems to be pretty incredible.

 

[BCotrell]

A fix 86 gives you the same control but better. Consider a five Channel amp...will be less expensive too. Going active and having your tweeters and mids separate is night and day over a passive comp set. Your kinda enamored by the wrong features