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Focal / Hertz & AudioControl build help
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<blockquote data-quote="koakine88" data-source="post: 8693684" data-attributes="member: 678733"><p>Aloha,</p><p> I am in the process of planning my 3rd gen tacoma audio upgrade. It is a non-JBL system, and I'm looking for high-quality sound and the ability to hold it at high volumes. I don't need a ton of bass for the type of music I listen to and am not looking to rattle my truck apart. The subwoofer setup I end up installing will be just to fill in some bass. The following is the system I am considering and am looking for help in swaying my decision on how to set my system up with the different channel options available.</p><p></p><p>Overall, I plan on spending about what I would doing the OEM Audio+ kit, but doing it myself with high-end products. *roughly $2-$3k total</p><p></p><p><strong> Front Component set:</strong></p><p>Focal ES 165K (4 ohm - 100 RMS) $850 <strong>or</strong> Hertz MLK 165.3 (4 ohm - 150 RMS) $800. I am undecided between these two speakers, I like the power handling of the Hertz, but there seems to be more popularity with the Focals. I believe either will sound great.</p><p><strong>Amplifier / DSP combination: </strong></p><p>AudioControl D-6.1200 / This is a 6 channel DSP amp that puts out 125W RMS @ 6 channels or 400W RMS @ 3 Channels. $1,100. I've heard that this company puts out high-quality stuff and like the price and simplicity of a combined unit versus a $600 DSP and another high-end amp. *DSP is required because I am not giving up my factory 8" head unit.</p><p><strong>Rear Speakers: </strong></p><p>Decent coaxials, that will pair decently with either the Focals or Hertz (undecided). Or just a rear speaker delete. Expecting to pay about $200-500</p><p><strong>Subwoofer:</strong></p><p>Either a single 12" or single 10" amp behind drivers rear seat in enclosure. (Not worried about the subwoofer yet) Expecting to pay about $300-600</p><p></p><p><em>Here are the options I am considering:</em></p><p></p><p><strong>Option 1: Active setup with external sub power</strong></p><p>Channel 1 & 2: Active front tweeters (125w RMS)</p><p>Channel 3 & 4: Active 6.5 woofers (125w RMS)</p><p>Channel 5 & 6: Rear coaxial speakers (125w RMS)</p><p>DSP sending signal to external sub amp</p><p>*More expensive with 2nd amp, more adjustability to active front stage, too much power to tweeters? risk of damaging tweeters if I mess up settings?</p><p></p><p><strong>Option 2: Passive setup with external sub power</strong></p><p>Channel 1/2 & 3/4: Bridged front component stage (400w RMS)</p><p>Channel 5 & 6: Rear coaxial speakers (125w RMS)</p><p>DSP sending signal to external sub amp</p><p>*More expensive with 2nd amp, less adjustability but tons of power to front stage</p><p></p><p><strong> Option 3: Rear speaker delete bridged</strong></p><p>Channel 1/2 & 3/4: Bridged entire front component stage (400w RMS)</p><p>Channel 5 & 6: Single subwoofer (400w RMS)</p><p>*Easy install, enough power for subwoofer and tons of power for front stage, loss of active control, no rear stage, cheapest with no extra amp or rear speakers</p><p></p><p><strong>Option 4: Rear speaker delete active</strong></p><p>Channel 1 & 2: Active front tweeters (125w RMS)</p><p>Channel 3 & 4: Active 6.5 woofers (125w RMS)</p><p>Channel 5 & 6: Single subwoofer (400w RMS)</p><p>*Easy install, adjustability with DSP, no rear stage, cheapest no extra amp or rear speakers</p><p></p><p>I'm leaning towards Option 4: The cost of adding rear coaxials that can keep up with the front stage seems to be a waste of money with no much return. I also will get to maximize the use of features with my expensive DSP amp, being able to digitally adjust the active frequencies to the tweeters and 6.5 woofers. I will be having plenty of power going to the front stage as well (I think) and won't be overloading the amp. Am I crazy, or actually making sense here?</p><p></p><p></p><p><em>What makes the most sense to you?</em></p><p></p><p>-Tyler</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="koakine88, post: 8693684, member: 678733"] Aloha, I am in the process of planning my 3rd gen tacoma audio upgrade. It is a non-JBL system, and I'm looking for high-quality sound and the ability to hold it at high volumes. I don't need a ton of bass for the type of music I listen to and am not looking to rattle my truck apart. The subwoofer setup I end up installing will be just to fill in some bass. The following is the system I am considering and am looking for help in swaying my decision on how to set my system up with the different channel options available. Overall, I plan on spending about what I would doing the OEM Audio+ kit, but doing it myself with high-end products. *roughly $2-$3k total [B] Front Component set:[/B] Focal ES 165K (4 ohm - 100 RMS) $850 [B]or[/B] Hertz MLK 165.3 (4 ohm - 150 RMS) $800. I am undecided between these two speakers, I like the power handling of the Hertz, but there seems to be more popularity with the Focals. I believe either will sound great. [B]Amplifier / DSP combination: [/B] AudioControl D-6.1200 / This is a 6 channel DSP amp that puts out 125W RMS @ 6 channels or 400W RMS @ 3 Channels. $1,100. I've heard that this company puts out high-quality stuff and like the price and simplicity of a combined unit versus a $600 DSP and another high-end amp. *DSP is required because I am not giving up my factory 8" head unit. [B]Rear Speakers: [/B] Decent coaxials, that will pair decently with either the Focals or Hertz (undecided). Or just a rear speaker delete. Expecting to pay about $200-500 [B]Subwoofer:[/B] Either a single 12" or single 10" amp behind drivers rear seat in enclosure. (Not worried about the subwoofer yet) Expecting to pay about $300-600 [I]Here are the options I am considering:[/I] [B]Option 1: Active setup with external sub power[/B] Channel 1 & 2: Active front tweeters (125w RMS) Channel 3 & 4: Active 6.5 woofers (125w RMS) Channel 5 & 6: Rear coaxial speakers (125w RMS) DSP sending signal to external sub amp *More expensive with 2nd amp, more adjustability to active front stage, too much power to tweeters? risk of damaging tweeters if I mess up settings? [B]Option 2: Passive setup with external sub power[/B] Channel 1/2 & 3/4: Bridged front component stage (400w RMS) Channel 5 & 6: Rear coaxial speakers (125w RMS) DSP sending signal to external sub amp *More expensive with 2nd amp, less adjustability but tons of power to front stage [B] Option 3: Rear speaker delete bridged[/B] Channel 1/2 & 3/4: Bridged entire front component stage (400w RMS) Channel 5 & 6: Single subwoofer (400w RMS) *Easy install, enough power for subwoofer and tons of power for front stage, loss of active control, no rear stage, cheapest with no extra amp or rear speakers [B]Option 4: Rear speaker delete active[/B] Channel 1 & 2: Active front tweeters (125w RMS) Channel 3 & 4: Active 6.5 woofers (125w RMS) Channel 5 & 6: Single subwoofer (400w RMS) *Easy install, adjustability with DSP, no rear stage, cheapest no extra amp or rear speakers I'm leaning towards Option 4: The cost of adding rear coaxials that can keep up with the front stage seems to be a waste of money with no much return. I also will get to maximize the use of features with my expensive DSP amp, being able to digitally adjust the active frequencies to the tweeters and 6.5 woofers. I will be having plenty of power going to the front stage as well (I think) and won't be overloading the amp. Am I crazy, or actually making sense here? [I]What makes the most sense to you?[/I] -Tyler [/QUOTE]
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