First time building need advice please

Original wis

CarAudio.com Regular
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Hi, I have a 01 Sentra and I'm planning a system with the following. I'd like some pointers before I start purchasing equipment so I don't waste time or money.

3 Sundown U series 10' 1500 RMS per

Ported box 32hz 1.2 cube net per speaker

1 Taramps Bass 5k

4 Hertz CX 165 2 way speakers 70 RMS per

1 Taramps 440/4 channel, 69 watts RMS channel

4 Hertz Cento tweeters

1 Taramps 400/4 channel, 60 watts RMS per channel

1 Clarion EQS 755 7 band 1/2 din equalizer

Alpine head unit undecided on which is best

Not sure what a DSP does but do I need one?

For power I'm planning to use:

The largest AGM I can fit in the battery well under the hood

270 amp custom alternator

1 Limitless Lithium 6k

Not sure what's a good brand of isolator to use but do I need one?

Battery compartment is 11" x 7" x 8.25" height. Looking at the XS Power D3400 for under the hood.

Trunk is 40" x 28" x 20" height

Trunk opening will fit a box 33" width and 17.25" height.

Using an online box size calculator I Arrived at the following dimensions:

Box External Dimensions

Width × Height × Depth32.00" × 15.00" × 21.86"

Material Thickness0.75"

Net Internal Volume3.60 ft3

Tuning Frequency32 Hz

Port Area42.00 inch2

Port Inlet Width × Height3.11" × 13.50"

Port Length22.79"

My questions are:

1 Is this sufficient power?

2 What gauge wire and how many runs from front to back?

3 What's a good isolator and do I even need one?

4 Any additional things I may have missed.



This is my first attempt at a serious build. If like to use for daily driver (I like loud bass pressure) as well as to to show at audio competitions. Any assistance would be appreciated.



Thank you,



Lewis King
 
Me personally, I would ditch the AGM and put a Cyber 12k in the back and just run the whole car and audio system off of that (if you're married to the cyber series battery and not wanting an LTO bank). Building your own bank can be cheaper as well. You also have to know what your alternator is putting out at idol. If you want to compete, you're car is going to be at idol, so the more amperage to combat the voltage dropping, the better.
Is that a Smart Bass 5k? If it's not, I would reconsider. Their not super expensive and they deliver tons of power. They except 2/0 gauge wire into their inputs and for grounding.
From the alternator, I would do 2 runs of 1/0, though probably overkill. Most 1/0 car audio wire is rated at 350 amps, so on that 270, 1 run of good OFC would do fine.
 
Last edited:
Me personally, I would ditch the AGM and put a Cyber 12k in the back and just run the whole car and audio system off of that (if you're married to the cyber series battery and not wanting an LTO bank). Building your own bank can be cheaper as well. You also have to know what your alternator is putting out at idol. If you want to compete, you're car is going to be at idol, so the more amperage to combat the voltage dropping, the better.
Is that a Smart Bass 5k? If it's not, I would reconsider. Their not super expensive and they deliver tons of power. They except 2/0 gauge wire into their inputs and for grounding.
From the alternator, I would do 2 runs of 1/0, though probably overkill. Most 1/0 car audio wire is rated at 350 amps, so on that 270, 1 run of good OFC would do fine.
I'm not familiar with LTO or building my own lithium bank?
 
I'm not familiar with LTO or building my own lithium bank?
There are plenty of videos on YouTube and, I'm still learning, but plenty of people on here know how to as well.
A lot of times, you can get a ton more amp hours for the same price building your own.
Also, look into that Smart Bass 5k. It's legit! (If you're sold on going full bridge)
 
Don't mix agm and lto chemistries. Just delete the agm completely. The lithium can crank that small car easily. Make sure your alt is set to charge at 15-15.5v so you can actually charge the lto up correctly. I don't know much about limitless honestly but yinlongs, plannano, and scibs are all good cells. The xspower titan8 batts use scibs. The 5s can only charge to 14v the 6s is 16.8v but works well in the 15-15.5v range. Look up ittybittyboom on Facebook milo makes nice custom batts for a decent price.

I'd suggest the smart bass 5k which does 5k from .5-2ohm which will likely provide more power after box rise or even a normal smart 5k which does its power from 2-4ohm

I would not worry about over powering the speakers much

I would likely get a 4channel that runs 200-250 per channel and tie the tweeters in pairs to each of the front channels and the mids in pairs for the rear channels for a 2ohm load on all 4 channels. This is assuming all the speakers are in the front seat area of the car.

I would completely ditch the clarion eq as its redundant due to the headunits eq as well as whatever dsp you decide to buy.

Dsp are widely available these days so just pick your poison. A good dsp would allow you to get a headunit that is less revolved around tuning and more about media, though these days many are capable or both.

For the box I try and stay out of the forum fights here but I would trust @Buck to design a successful box. To me 1.2 per u10 seems small for the power at hand my sa10v2 are running in 1.45 each atm and seem to work very well.
 
That Smart 5k looks pretty sweet.
Im not pro but +1 on running everything off a correctly sized lithium.
Looks like you have most stuff pretty figured out.

Maybe get a custom box designed by someone. I keep hearing the box makes or breaks greatness.
 
That Smart 5k looks pretty sweet.
Im not pro but +1 on running everything off a correctly sized lithium.
Looks like you have most stuff pretty figured out.

Maybe get a custom box designed by someone. I keep hearing the box makes or breaks greatness.

The box is 90% of the equation the rest is just clean power. Vehicle acoustics matter but that falls back to the box design. You can design a box to work with or around vehicle acoustics.
 
Thank you both for the input. I messaged @Buck for pointers as you suggested. I really appreciate the feedback I'd rather not find the mistake after I've invested hundreds of dollars incorrectly.
 
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