Finally picked up a clamp meter and tested my zx...

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

An unfortunate drawback. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

which is why i was looking for something that does good power at a higher load. btw i was just playing about buying your amp. but i am looking for decently prices zx's in the classifieds all the time

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

which is why i was looking for something that does good power at a higher load. btw i was just playing about buying your amp. but i am looking for decently prices zx's in the classifieds all the time

My teammate sold all 4 of his.

Were his prices too high?

 

[teamsubgopoof]

Hicks tested away from large impedance spikes which makes his much more accurate than yours.
And it's not *****ing -- it's informing people who do not know the difference. People will read this thinking the amp will do 2400watts at 4 ohms and that is just NOT the case at all. It's OK if you want to remain ignorant but don't force it on other people.

Please look it up anywhere before trying to tell me that I'm only posting this because it's you doing it. I don't give a ******* who you are or what team you're on or any of that bullshit. What I do care about is getting correct information out. Look up something called the power factor. Just look it up and read about it. Read about how it is used to measure power (in watts) in AC circuits. Read why it is used and then look back on the testing you did.

he is testing REAL power that his amp is putting out, you test amperage out of speaker wire x voltage out and you get your power...

also if you divide the voltage x the amperage you get your impedence //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/graduate.gif.d982460be9f153bb54e5d4cb744f6ae8.gif

 

[Immacomputer 10+ year member]

I'm sorry that my impedence rise is greater than hicks? I can't control that. And relatively speaking my rise is better than hicks. He went from .35 nominal to 1.3 ohms reactive.
Every test I did, no matter the voltage and amperage output, was always around 3.1-3.2 ohms. There was no way around it.

And yes, it is b*tching. Nobody cared about it in the last thread, and nobody is going to care about it now. You didn't say shit in hicks thread, or any other person's threads. This is the 2nd one of mine that you crapped on. You said it doesn't matter what the impedence rise is, though the higher the rise, the more scewed. Hick's rise was 4x while mine was only 3x. Yet you keep your mouth shut?

This is the way I (and tons of other people) test in their vehicle. If you don't like the way I do it, start your own thread showing the way you would do it.

Until then, STFU and leave my thread alone.

If I were to see another thread with bullshit means of testing, I would have said something. I don't remember his thread well and it really doesn't matter. What matters is that this method is bullshit no matter how many people do it.

You have to be one of the most childish people I have ever seen if you are really more concerned about me pointing out the flaws in your method than you are that your method is not correct. Instead of trying to prove me wrong, you just tell me to go away. That is really proving your point isn't it. If you're trying to prove that I don't like you, you're wasting your time. Whether or not I like you has nothing to do with your method being flawed.

People in your last thread said I was right but you just cried about people not liking you. Boohoo... grow up and realize you don't know everything and it doesn't matter if people like you or not on the internet. Do you really think you have nothing left to learn? I know I sure as hell don't know everything there is to know. You know a hell of a lot more than me in how to get loud and you have shown that. But, you don't seem to like to admit that your test results are heavily skewed.

Do you honestly think that a company will rate their amp that crazy low? Didn't you get a birth sheet with the amp? I really doubt it claims 2400watts at 4 ohms....

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

dont remember...were they over 600? if so then yea. im willing to buy one for about that but i cant do it right now.

ngsm reffered me to one but the price was a little too high for me.

i can probably get around 400 for the 20.1 so i would need to shel out another 200 for the zx with the only real difference being that im going for efficiency in the long run. so im not sure if its worth another 200 bucks for slightly better effeiciency.

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

If I were to see another thread with bullshit means of testing, I would have said something. I don't remember his thread well and it really doesn't matter. What matters is that this method is bullshit no matter how many people do it.
You have to be one of the most childish people I have ever seen if you are really more concerned about me pointing out the flaws in your method than you are that your method is not correct. Instead of trying to prove me wrong, you just tell me to go away. That is really proving your point isn't it. If you're trying to prove that I don't like you, you're wasting your time. Whether or not I like you has nothing to do with your method being flawed.

People in your last thread said I was right but you just cried about people not liking you. Boohoo... grow up and realize you don't know everything and it doesn't matter if people like you or not on the internet. Do you really think you have nothing left to learn? I know I sure as hell don't know everything there is to know. You know a hell of a lot more than me in how to get loud and you have shown that. But, you don't seem to like to admit that your test results are heavily skewed.

Do you honestly think that a company will rate their amp that crazy low? Didn't you get a birth sheet with the amp? I really doubt it claims 2400watts at 4 ohms....

Like I've said before, just leave it alone. Or better yet, how about you go around to every db drag competitor and tell them they are all idiots who don't know anything. I'm sure that will go over real well.

2400 watts at 4 ohms, no. But 2800 watts at 2 ohms, at 13 volts, yes.

Is it not fair to say that I should be expecting more power with a lower nominal impedence and more voltage?

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

dont remember...were they over 600? if so then yea. im willing to buy one for about that but i cant do it right now.
ngsm reffered me to one but the price was a little too high for me.

i can probably get around 400 for the 20.1 so i would need to shel out another 200 for the zx with the only real difference being that im going for efficiency in the long run. so im not sure if its worth another 200 bucks for slightly better effeiciency.

He was selling all his for around 535-550 shipped IIRC.

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

He was selling all his for around 535-550 shipped IIRC.

well kick me in the nuts eh

 

[teamsubgopoof]

Didn't you get a birth sheet with the amp? I really doubt it claims 2400watts at 4 ohms....

do you really think that every amp company hooks up and tests each invidual amp?

If so your WAY off base...

They might do a batch test or a control but they don't test every single amp, your an idiot if you think they do.

Those pages are random generated numbers between a certain range.

If you think one amp does more power then the other one that is built identical to it because of a piece of paper welllllll //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/nerd.gif.c6fa51ddf7ff75f1c0371fbc648f70ae.gif

 

[Immacomputer 10+ year member]

he is testing REAL power that his amp is putting out, you test amperage out of speaker wire x voltage out and you get your power...
also if you divide the voltage x the amperage you get your impedence //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/graduate.gif.d982460be9f153bb54e5d4cb744f6ae8.gif

Getting power using that method only applied to purely resistive circuits (DC circuits). When you're dealing with AC circuits that have inductance and capacitance (which is what you will have when dealing with speakers), you will have an imaginary part of the impedance that will affect the actual power measured in watts. By imaginary, it like the sqrt(-1) like you have heard of in algebra.

In AC circuits, power in watts is measured by:

Current(rms)*Voltage(rms)*Power Factor = Power (in watts).

If you leave off the power factor, you just have volt amps.

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

Getting power using that method only applied to purely resistive circuits (DC circuits). When you're dealing with AC circuits that have inductance and capacitance (which is what you will have when dealing with speakers), you will have an imaginary part of the impedance that will affect the actual power measured in watts. By imaginary, it like the sqrt(-1) like you have heard of in algebra.
In AC circuits, power in watts is measured by:

Current(rms)*Voltage(rms)*Power Factor = Power (in watts).

If you leave off the power factor, you just have volt amps.

Well, I asked you a while ago to tell me how you would test ACTUAL power in the REAL world, but you didn't answer.

I asked you to start your own power test thread, showing these steps, but it's apparent you aren't going to do that either.

So until you can show me a better and more accurate way of testing actual power, I'm going to stick with the way that everyone else that I've ever talked to about amp testing does it.

 

[teamsubgopoof]

Getting power using that method only applied to purely resistive circuits (DC circuits). When you're dealing with AC circuits that have inductance and capacitance (which is what you will have when dealing with speakers), you will have an imaginary part of the impedance that will affect the actual power measured in watts. By imaginary, it like the sqrt(-1) like you have heard of in algebra.
In AC circuits, power in watts is measured by:

Current(rms)*Voltage(rms)*Power Factor = Power (in watts).

If you leave off the power factor, you just have volt amps.

a watt is a unit of power, which is made up of voltage and amperage

an amplifier takes DC in and goes through a conversion and switching process to produce AC

There is no other real way to measure power out of your amps, you can do the *.707 bs that other people do and that just gives you a lower number, he is testing what his amps are doing peak during a 2 second burp

 

[tapout 5,000+ posts]

keep it up, I"m actually learning something here.

 

[Immacomputer 10+ year member]

Like I've said before, just leave it alone. Or better yet, how about you go around to every db drag competitor and tell them they are all idiots who don't know anything. I'm sure that will go over real well.

I never said you were an idiot and I never said you don't know anything. What I have said is that you are wrong. I'm sorry that you act like a child when you hear that. The people who think they're getting actual power readings from measuring like this are wrong and I would tell that to anybody who thinks otherwise.

Well, I asked you a while ago to tell me how you would test ACTUAL power in the REAL world, but you didn't answer.
I asked you to start your own power test thread, showing these steps, but it's apparent you aren't going to do that either.

So until you can show me a better and more accurate way of testing actual power, I'm going to stick with the way that everyone else that I've ever talked to about amp testing does it.

I have told you before but you either don't understand or you didn't ever read it.

I would love to do that on my own if I had the equipment and time.

For starters, you need a purely resistive load that can handle large amounts of power and not heat up much. I know places sell them because I have seen then at work. They are large metal bars like you would see on a furnace or heater and they dip down into a 5 gallon bucket like container. If you attach that load to your amp and set the gains with a scope, you will be able to measure the actual power of the amp while playing pink noise through it. In this case, using a nice scope and nice clamp meter will be able to give you a much, much, more accurate number.

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

a watt is a unit of power, which is made up of voltage and amperage
an amplifier takes DC in and goes through a conversion and switching process to produce AC

There is no other real way to measure power out of your amps, you can do the *.707 bs that other people do and that just gives you a lower number, he is testing what his amps are doing peak during a 2 second burp

he just told you to look up "power factor"...

i did. from what i can tell, immacomputer is right. no disrespect to tommyk.

i remember when i got schooled by immacomputer about my 20.1... hahah //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif