Finally installed my first system! Yay!

[Justinw303 10+ year member]

Ok, so I finally got my dad to help me finish installing my system today. 2 10" RE RE's powered by a Phoenix Gold Xenon 400.1.

So we hook the power wire to the battery and it's time to go. I crank it up, set the subwoofer volume on my CD player all the way up, and set the gains at a little under halfway for now because it was late and I didn't feel like doing the whole DMM thing tonight. So I put on some David Banner and I notice that only one sub is hitting. I check the wiring at the amp and everything is secure. Therefore, we (my dad and I) figure one of the wires came loose on the inside of the box. No biggie, we'll fix it later.

So I ride up to Burger King to give it a listen and grab a bite to eat. Everything sounds good. I get home and invite my sister to listen to it. Everything is fine. When she leaves, I get out and flip the seat forward (It's in a standard cab F-150) to make sure everything is fine. As I had feared, the sub was rattling a little and when I leaned closer I could feel air leaking around the mounting holes.

So... How can I fix this easily? I'm not sure, but I think it's leaking in more than one hole. I was thinking I could just put a dab of silicone around the screws and the mounting holes and that should be good, then I could get something the cover the mounting ring so it's not so ugly. Would that be good?

Also, since I probably won't be able to do this until Saturday, would it be fine if I continue to listen to it with this air leak for the next 2 days? I can't hear the rattle when I'm driving because the seat muffles it.

Overall though, I'm happy with it. I can't wait to get it firing on all woofers. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

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[BoominBeast]

weathering tape around the cutout. Put the sub back in and use the right screws aka drywalls. do it right. check for air leaks. If it is ported there might me more to it

 

[chinny 5,000+ posts]

i wouldnt listen to it with the air leak

the dap would work, if you want just unscrew the sub out and put silicone in the back of the mouting circle and then screw it in, should be fine after then.

 

[BoominBeast]

it there is more than one air leak. then build a new box. There really ISNT too much decrease in output with air leaks. Just annoying rattling/sounds

 

[Justinw303 10+ year member]

weathering tape around the cutout. Put the sub back in and use the right screws aka drywalls. do it right. check for air leaks. If it is ported there might me more to it

You mean like around the inside of the rim, which would technically make the cutout a wee bit smaller and therefore make it fit better/not leak air? That sounds like a good idea, because when the sub is sitting in the hole and it's not mounted, it can wiggle back and forth, which I don't think is a good thing.

So I shouldn't listen to it until I fix it? Do I risk damaging it?

 

[BoominBeast]

CHINNY.. VID comin soon. DA BLOW.

 

[Defconx3 10+ year member]

Yeah, I have a RE 12" in a 1.8cuft ported 26hz tuned box off of 250 watts. It is absolutely great, I love it.

I experienced the same problem with air escaping around the rubber gasket, I used DAP #33 Window Glazing. The stuff is really thick, like sticky playdough, and it does a great job of stopping the air leaks. It also stays flexible over time so when it comes time to take out your sub, it isn't hard.

 

[Justinw303 10+ year member]

it there is more than one air leak. then build a new box. There really ISNT too much decrease in output with air leaks. Just annoying rattling/sounds

I can't build a new box, because I had to have someone build it for me for $100. It's nothing serious, it's just basically that the cutout is a little bit too big for the sub, so the weathering tape should fix that.

 

[Defconx3 10+ year member]

CHINNY.. VID comin soon. DA BLOW.

That song is one of my favorites, lets see the vid! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif

 

[BoominBeast]

yeah weathering tape is a quick and great solution. Just put some arounf the cutout on the box. and then put the sub back. I garantee you the air leak will stop. Quick, cheap and easy solution. Now check for airleaks around the edges.

100 bucks for a box with air leaks. take it back to him and tell him to do it right.

 

[flakko 5,000+ posts]

get some gasket tape from PE

and where are the pix?

 

[Justinw303 10+ year member]

yeah weathering tape is a quick and great solution. Just put some arounf the cutout on the box. and then put the sub back. I garantee you the air leak will stop. Quick, cheap and easy solution. Now check for airleaks around the edges.
100 bucks for a box with air leaks. take it back to him and tell him to do it right.

It's not really Moe's fault. It's not that the box itself has a leak, it's just that the sub doesn't exactly fit in the hole, so air leaks.

Any suggestions on weathering tape brands? I'm not too familiar.

And pix will come... sometime soon, hopefully.

 

[BoominBeast]

Oh and you risk almost zero damage. people play subs free air all the time, and you are nowhere close to doing that. Also make sure u have the sub hooked up right. If its an 8 ohm amp like for home audio. you wire series in parralell than then negative to positive and positive to negative then to the amp.

I dont know why ur second sub is not working.

what gauge are u running. 4,8,12. Make sure the terminal from the wire are clappered in properly meaning they are not loose. and make sure the length of the wire exposed from the wire cutter/stripper is long enough and small enough to fit through the terminal whole. if not just twirl the wire around to make it thinner.

 

[Justinw303 10+ year member]

Oh and you risk almost zero damage. people play subs free air all the time, and you are nowhere close to doing that. Also make sure u have the sub hooked up right. If its an 8 ohm amp like for home audio. you wire series in parralell than then negative to positive and positive to negative then to the amp. I dont know why ur second sub is not working.

what gauge are u running. 4,8,12. Make sure the terminal from the wire are clappered in properly meaning they are not loose. and make sure the length of the wire exposed from the wire cutter/stripper is long enough and small enough to fit through the terminal whole. if not just twirl the wire around to make it thinner.

I'm running 4 gauge power and ground. Everything is connected securely to the amp. The other sub likely isn't working because the connections to the voice coild came loose as we were putting it in. The subs are DVC 4 ohms subs. Each sub is wired in series, then in parallel with each other. 4 ohms load at amp, 400 watts total, 200 per sub. Now, with the other sub disconnected, that would be 400 watts to the one sub, but since it's wired in series that should be an 8 ohm load which would mean only about 200 watts to the sub, which is fine.

 

[kotec123 10+ year member]

wheres the vid?