This isn't always true, it works different for each vehicle. I picked up output from a slightly larger and lower tuned box when I rebuilt. If you want more audible output over what you have now, you will need to gain at least 2-3db to hear a difference, which means doubling current cone area or power. Since you are opting to stay with the same box, you will need to double power. Anything less will net you tenths to around 1db max so the gain (if any) won't be very noticeable.Well my box is a little large since we were looking for max spl at low frequency. Which means the box has a lower resident Fq because of its increased size, so from me to get louder with better range. I need to drop my box's volume a bit so it has a higher resident Fq but get a woofer with a lower Fs so i still gain a bit low end, while gaining high end from making the box a bit smaller. Does that sound logical to you? Im just now starting to try and understand the logic behind it lol
Of course im getting a woofer that's twice rms of what im currently running
Ok that makes sense, yea im going to a 1200-1500wrms woofer. My amps only putting out like 850max to my OA, my box is 2.2 so i cant give it more then that or else it clipsThis isn't always true, it works different for each vehicle. I picked up output from a slightly larger and lower tuned box when I rebuilt. If you want more audible output over what you have now, you will need to gain at least 2-3db to hear a difference, which means doubling current cone area or power. Since you are opting to stay with the same box, you will need to double power. Anything less will net you tenths to around 1db max so the gain (if any) won't be very noticeable.
they pretty much are. but the suspension on them are differentIsn't the HD basically the same sub as an AQ HDC3? or maybe I'm thinking of a different AB sub..
If you are going from a 600rms woofer to a 1200-1500rms woofer you wont gain anything to the ear if you are keeping the same amp. Keep your OA, rebuild the box and give it 2k and then see if you want to upgrade.Ok that makes sense, yea im going to a 1200-1500wrms woofer. My amps only putting out like 850max to my OA, my box is 2.2 so i cant give it more then that or else it clips
My OA cant take more then 800-850 in my box, a 1500wrms woofer would be able to take all 1200 i can offer. You dont think thats a big enough increase in power to see a 3db result? Plus woofer like the FI Q have 10mm more xmax then my OA, seems like that would make an audible differenceIf you are going from a 600rms woofer to a 1200-1500rms woofer you wont gain anything to the ear if you are keeping the same amp. Keep your OA, rebuild the box and give it 2k and then see if you want to upgrade.
You need to be able to keep the coil in the magnetic field and when there is more xmax it is harder to do so. The amount of moving mass or weight that the motor has move is an important factor so compare (bl^2/re)/mms if you want to do some number crunching, you will get a decimal, but the higher the number the better. Xmax means nothing. Since you aren't doubling cone area, you need to at least double power or else there will be a very small and possibly inaudible difference.My OA cant take more then 800-850 in my box, a 1500wrms woofer would be able to take all 1200 i can offer. You dont think thats a big enough increase in power to see a 3db result? Plus woofer like the FI Q have 10mm more xmax then my OA, seems like that would make an audible difference
Well shit, so seem like the best option for me is to rebuild with 2 10s, i dont think i could fit 3 plus the port. I can fit like 3.8 cubes gross, new box we can possibly squeeze 4-4.35 cubes gross but that would be pushing it. Plus buying more then 2 drivers dosnt sound appealing to me lolYou need to be able to keep the coil in the magnetic field and when there is more xmax it is harder to do so. The amount of moving mass or weight that the motor has move is an important factor so compare (bl^2/re)/mms if you want to do some number crunching, you will get a decimal, but the higher the number the better. Xmax means nothing. Since you aren't doubling cone area, you need to at least double power or else there will be a very small and possibly inaudible difference.
2 10s is a step in the right direction, but you are still going to need to double the power imo. Any way to do a 6in port? or 2 4in aeros? It would prob have to be side firing. A little while back I remember seeing a build log of 2 dd 1510s in a standard cab full size truck that was doing low 141s on around 1k-ish rms. Try to look it up, I'll try and find it and link to it. I think this would be your best option.
edit: found it: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/524429-2-10-box-build-dodge-1500-a.html
that is what you should do, maybe not the same equipment, but the same box design.