Factory Componets

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

A guy at work has a 99 Dodge Durango with factory componets. I have never dealt with this before. Are they crossed at the head unit or is there a crossover somewhere. He doesn't want to externally amp them, just a drop in replacement.

He is an older guy and doesn't want anything except replacement for a damaged speaker.

Here are my thoughts:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13644

Click to read more...

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

crossed over at the amp usually

How would I find crossover point, or would you say...for $99 componet set it will probably be close?

 

[Suomi 10+ year member]

A lot of factory comps just feature a bass-blocker-type crossover at the tweeter. The stock comps in my Mazda6 were this way. The main speaker wire in the door was split, so a full signal was sent to both the 6x8 and the tweet. The tweet just used the small built-in crossover. It's basically set up like a cheap coax, but with the tweeter separate.

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

Would you install the crossover (that will come with the componet set) or no? I probably will but I don't want to cut into his factory wiring at all. I will use those speaker adapters.

 

[JohnnyChuttz 10+ year member]

Those fancy factory components may have an odd impedance. I would check the ohm rating on the output side of the amp before going any further. The components could be bi-amped aswell.

I have worked on several cars with factory amps and they do not like running different impedances than they were designed for.

Check the resistances of all the components and report back.

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

Those fancy factory components may have an odd impedance. I would check the ohm rating on the output side of the amp before going any further. The components could be bi-amped aswell.
I have worked on several cars with factory amps and they do not like running different impedances than they were designed for.

Check the resistances of all the components and report back.

I see. I know the Buick I had used 8 ohm speakers off the factory H/amo. Easy way to burn a HU, good idea.

I doubt biamped, or even externally amped, but I would doubt them being 4 ohm factory.

 

[Calikid 5,000+ posts]

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[IamDeMan 5,000+ posts]

A lot of factory comps just feature a bass-blocker-type crossover at the tweeter. The stock comps in my Mazda6 were this way. The main speaker wire in the door was split, so a full signal was sent to both the 6x8 and the tweet. The tweet just used the small built-in crossover. It's basically set up like a cheap coax, but with the tweeter separate.

My Grand am was the same as well.

 

[KaeZoo 10+ year member]

A Durango with factory components is equipped with an Infinity sound system, which includes a factory amplifier. The woofer and tweeter run from separate channels, and the crossover is built into the amplifier. If you want to bypass the amp, it can be found high in the passenger kick panel.

On a similar system I saw in a Jeep, the crossover frequency was much lower than a typical aftermarket system; replacing the stock components with aftermarket resulted in a big hole in the sound. On the other hand, the Durango has a 1" tweeter while the Jeep had a 2 1/2" tweeter, so it's likely the Durango uses a different crossover point.

 

[Turborusty 10+ year member]

Just coming across old posts, but there's a lot of misinformation circling the drain here.

The Dakotas and Durangos hav a 4 channel factory amp that runs all the speakers. There are no crossover points in the amp, the front tweets are run parallel with the door woofers but the tweets have a "bass-blocker" type of cap mounted right on them.

The factory speakers are 2 ohms. You can replace them and tehy'll be just fine running on the factory amp. You will need to use the supplied crossover as the signal is full range and the tweets will have no protection.

Turborusty