FieldParty187
Junior Member
Hello Everyone. I’m new to the forums (First Post Ever) and new to audio builds as well. But thanks to many hours of my life lost due to reading these helpful forums and reading Bcae1’s and similar websites I think I may have a decent system planned out. Althought I still have quite a few ISSUES im needing help with PLEASE see Issues Section toward the bottom of post.
The Truck the System will be going into.
Most of the Components have been purchased, Equipment box and tower speakers are in the works. With that being said, I know there will probably be many opinions on better equipment that I could’ve used.
Purpose of the system is to have a truck I can pull up to outdoor location (river, bonfire, beach) and have a better than decent outdoor system for us to gather around. Please review my schematic and equipment and give any recommendations. I'm not necessarily looking for a competition vehicle just something that will impress me and a crowd of Rednecks. As stated before this is my first audio system build so please be mindful that I could be and probably am a complete idiot.
The planned Sub/equip box. Open and Closed. Currently 50% done with construction. Plan is for the 2- 15" subs in the bottom, along with spare batteries. Amps, Crossover, Capacitors in mid deck (what you see in open box) and tweeters built into Bottom of the Lid. I have nitrogen assist shocks and Electromagnet lock system planned. (((Any Advice to outdoor treatment to wood would be nice, currently looking at Fiber glassing and or maybe bed liner?))) Previous profession was a cabinet builder so experienced with wood but not particularly for outdoor purposes.
The "MS Paint" sketched plans for midrange speakers in a wakeboard tower setup (this was my 2004 f250). I will be using the same Tubing that is used for tire rack and roof rack and 8" PVC for cans. Speakers facing forward and backwards out of cans is the current plan.
Now For The Wiring Plans... Please examine and see if there are any corrections that need to be made. Keep in mind most components have been bought so try to help me make these work unless it is a game changer. I have researched and this is what I have come up with, like I said earlier though I'm quite the Noob.
Components should be listed in drawing for the items I have already purchased, but send questions or recommendations if you have them.
Explanation of LED's running off of amp- I want a system in which I will have lights flashing at 2 different frequency’s(high and Low) and, also, to vary in intensity of light brightness to how hard/loud the tone is. I had bought and experimented with a few LED "Beat to Music" controllers, they were all very inconsistent with beat, so much so that you really couldn’t tell that it was even flashing to beat, they varied with sound increase/decrease very badly and the main downfall is it was a 100%on or completely off which didn’t give the feel I wanted.
I have experimented with the system (running off of Speaker level inputs) and it is very accurate and intriguing. I starred at high and low frequency LED's lighting at different intensities you could actually feel the music by looking at the LED's.
Anyone with any electrical knowledge please look the system over and let me know of any problem or advice for this setup. (Ohm setup, Wire gauge, Power consumption,)
(Updated 1/18/2015)
DISREGARD ISSUE 1- That complete idiot statement I made up top came into play. It is upgraded sound but NOT BOSE. (Wrong vehicle in mind).
With this being said, think the best plan for my signals and proccessor is to use a LC7i passive crossover(Speaker level to pre amp level).Then use my pre purchased Planet Audio EC20B (Pre amp level) Crossover to tune. Seems to be the easiest way to make it work properly. Any input?
Or just spend extra dollars and get the LC7i.. By the time I buy RCA's, to bridge the 2, may be same cost...
DISREGARD Issue 1:I do not have my Line level and components system shown yet and I am still a little confused on how I should run. My truck a 2014 f-250 6.7 diesel, with Nav and SYNC system built into the dash head unit. It also has the BOSE "upgraded" sound system which I have heard/read is a PIA to get signals off of.
I have the Planet Audio EC20B Crossover in which I am planning on splitting the output into my Highs, mid, lows. This crossover is intended to run at line levels
I've read situations where they try to use a LOC with the speaker level inputs and it would not work. Then, they remove the LOC entirely and run amps directly off Speaker level inputs and it work "correctly" (which I know is supposed to be a major NO NO.) Last thing on the crossover: it has 3 inputs and 3 outputs although it "could" be ran with 1 input and 3 frequency outputs.
Just needing some help on how to rig this into my F-250 BOSE system.
Issue 2: Not sure on an Amp for the tweeters. Any recommendations? Was planning on 2 of the Lazar OPTIBT44 600w Super Tweeters. Is this overkill for my system?
Issue 3: Supplying power to this bad boy... You can see current plan for batteries in schematic. Current alternator is 170amp, it’s a bit expensive but ford make a Kit to add an additional 200amp alternator ($700ish if i do myself $1600 if they were to do it) which would give me 170+200=370amp. Another option is the Mechman Alternator that puts out 370Amps at $700. And the last and most expensive option is to add the Dual alternator parts($400) with the Mechman Alternator($700) which would give me 170+370=540amps.
This is adding a lot of extra cost that originally I wasn’t anticipating so I need to know what is the bare minimum this system would have to have to function properly. I don’t anticipate running the system maxed out for long periods of time but I want it to be able to atleast nearly "max out" when wanted and run at mid volume for a few hours(with truck running).
Feel sure this "Issues section" has just begun and Thanks already for any help with my build.
Glad I finaly decided to subscribe to a couple forums to help iron out some questions. I have began adding info on the Non-audio portions of my truck build that can be found at TheDieselStop website, if interested.. same name FieldParty187.
The Truck the System will be going into.
Most of the Components have been purchased, Equipment box and tower speakers are in the works. With that being said, I know there will probably be many opinions on better equipment that I could’ve used.
Purpose of the system is to have a truck I can pull up to outdoor location (river, bonfire, beach) and have a better than decent outdoor system for us to gather around. Please review my schematic and equipment and give any recommendations. I'm not necessarily looking for a competition vehicle just something that will impress me and a crowd of Rednecks. As stated before this is my first audio system build so please be mindful that I could be and probably am a complete idiot.
The planned Sub/equip box. Open and Closed. Currently 50% done with construction. Plan is for the 2- 15" subs in the bottom, along with spare batteries. Amps, Crossover, Capacitors in mid deck (what you see in open box) and tweeters built into Bottom of the Lid. I have nitrogen assist shocks and Electromagnet lock system planned. (((Any Advice to outdoor treatment to wood would be nice, currently looking at Fiber glassing and or maybe bed liner?))) Previous profession was a cabinet builder so experienced with wood but not particularly for outdoor purposes.
The "MS Paint" sketched plans for midrange speakers in a wakeboard tower setup (this was my 2004 f250). I will be using the same Tubing that is used for tire rack and roof rack and 8" PVC for cans. Speakers facing forward and backwards out of cans is the current plan.
Now For The Wiring Plans... Please examine and see if there are any corrections that need to be made. Keep in mind most components have been bought so try to help me make these work unless it is a game changer. I have researched and this is what I have come up with, like I said earlier though I'm quite the Noob.
Components should be listed in drawing for the items I have already purchased, but send questions or recommendations if you have them.
Explanation of LED's running off of amp- I want a system in which I will have lights flashing at 2 different frequency’s(high and Low) and, also, to vary in intensity of light brightness to how hard/loud the tone is. I had bought and experimented with a few LED "Beat to Music" controllers, they were all very inconsistent with beat, so much so that you really couldn’t tell that it was even flashing to beat, they varied with sound increase/decrease very badly and the main downfall is it was a 100%on or completely off which didn’t give the feel I wanted.
I have experimented with the system (running off of Speaker level inputs) and it is very accurate and intriguing. I starred at high and low frequency LED's lighting at different intensities you could actually feel the music by looking at the LED's.
Anyone with any electrical knowledge please look the system over and let me know of any problem or advice for this setup. (Ohm setup, Wire gauge, Power consumption,)
(Updated 1/18/2015)
DISREGARD ISSUE 1- That complete idiot statement I made up top came into play. It is upgraded sound but NOT BOSE. (Wrong vehicle in mind).
With this being said, think the best plan for my signals and proccessor is to use a LC7i passive crossover(Speaker level to pre amp level).Then use my pre purchased Planet Audio EC20B (Pre amp level) Crossover to tune. Seems to be the easiest way to make it work properly. Any input?
Or just spend extra dollars and get the LC7i.. By the time I buy RCA's, to bridge the 2, may be same cost...
DISREGARD Issue 1:I do not have my Line level and components system shown yet and I am still a little confused on how I should run. My truck a 2014 f-250 6.7 diesel, with Nav and SYNC system built into the dash head unit. It also has the BOSE "upgraded" sound system which I have heard/read is a PIA to get signals off of.
I have the Planet Audio EC20B Crossover in which I am planning on splitting the output into my Highs, mid, lows. This crossover is intended to run at line levels
I've read situations where they try to use a LOC with the speaker level inputs and it would not work. Then, they remove the LOC entirely and run amps directly off Speaker level inputs and it work "correctly" (which I know is supposed to be a major NO NO.) Last thing on the crossover: it has 3 inputs and 3 outputs although it "could" be ran with 1 input and 3 frequency outputs.
Just needing some help on how to rig this into my F-250 BOSE system.
Issue 2: Not sure on an Amp for the tweeters. Any recommendations? Was planning on 2 of the Lazar OPTIBT44 600w Super Tweeters. Is this overkill for my system?
Issue 3: Supplying power to this bad boy... You can see current plan for batteries in schematic. Current alternator is 170amp, it’s a bit expensive but ford make a Kit to add an additional 200amp alternator ($700ish if i do myself $1600 if they were to do it) which would give me 170+200=370amp. Another option is the Mechman Alternator that puts out 370Amps at $700. And the last and most expensive option is to add the Dual alternator parts($400) with the Mechman Alternator($700) which would give me 170+370=540amps.
This is adding a lot of extra cost that originally I wasn’t anticipating so I need to know what is the bare minimum this system would have to have to function properly. I don’t anticipate running the system maxed out for long periods of time but I want it to be able to atleast nearly "max out" when wanted and run at mid volume for a few hours(with truck running).
Feel sure this "Issues section" has just begun and Thanks already for any help with my build.
Glad I finaly decided to subscribe to a couple forums to help iron out some questions. I have began adding info on the Non-audio portions of my truck build that can be found at TheDieselStop website, if interested.. same name FieldParty187.
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