The 8600MP has a 13 band equalizer... page 54 in your owners manual explains the bands and how to adjust. For the tweeters, anything at and above either the 2k or the 3.15k band settings, depending on what your tweeters are crossed over at, will have the effect you are wanting.
- Thread Starter
- #3
right right, and would the db slope set to pass be aright for the front door comps
sdmtnbiker420
10+ year member
GAME 4 SALE
that head unit also has built in LPF for speakers and HPF for subs. mAKE SURE those are adjusted correctly. The tweeter adjustments are on the right.
I've got the 8650MP (aust version) but it's pretty much the same except for the radio freqs...
Rundown on setting the H.U.------>
your audio settings will be different to other users due to speaker type, placement, listening prefs and amplifier settings,filters blah,blah,blah...
If your after the mp3 Bimetric and BBE settings and such, I suggest that you also use your own settings. How about I show you the layout I have chosen and why. This may help you make the right choice for your setup.
BMX setting:
Get to the function screen and scroll (using the RH knob,the rotary commander) to the BMX adjust tab
I've chosen Bimetric expansion 1. This is a good setting for most MP3 and WMA types. It will add slight bass and treble extension to music playback, compensating for compression created with 128Kbps-192Kbps samples. Choose BMX2 for enhanced expansion (typically for 128Kbps or under files). Comp1 & Comp2 attempt to restore the mid freqs (which can affect your imaging and staging).
One thing to remember is that the BMX enhancement applies ONLY to MP3 and WMA playback. If you insert a normal music disc you will not be able to find the BMX tab in the function menu. The H.U. will not apply the BMX enhancement to standard music discs. This means that if you were to convert MP3 files to a standard wav file music disc, the H.U. would not apply any Bimetric expansion, therefore its better to leave the Mp3's as Mp3s so the H.U. knows to apply BMX.
Rundown on setting the H.U.------>
your audio settings will be different to other users due to speaker type, placement, listening prefs and amplifier settings,filters blah,blah,blah...
If your after the mp3 Bimetric and BBE settings and such, I suggest that you also use your own settings. How about I show you the layout I have chosen and why. This may help you make the right choice for your setup.
BMX setting:
Get to the function screen and scroll (using the RH knob,the rotary commander) to the BMX adjust tab
I've chosen Bimetric expansion 1. This is a good setting for most MP3 and WMA types. It will add slight bass and treble extension to music playback, compensating for compression created with 128Kbps-192Kbps samples. Choose BMX2 for enhanced expansion (typically for 128Kbps or under files). Comp1 & Comp2 attempt to restore the mid freqs (which can affect your imaging and staging).
One thing to remember is that the BMX enhancement applies ONLY to MP3 and WMA playback. If you insert a normal music disc you will not be able to find the BMX tab in the function menu. The H.U. will not apply the BMX enhancement to standard music discs. This means that if you were to convert MP3 files to a standard wav file music disc, the H.U. would not apply any Bimetric expansion, therefore its better to leave the Mp3's as Mp3s so the H.U. knows to apply BMX.
BBE setting:
BBE attempts to compensate for a speakers inertial characteristics which govern music playback. For eg,
An amplifiers output of a single frequency burst can be displayed as this waveform:
Yet, due to a speakers relative efficiency, filter networks, and physical properties of the speaker and surroundings the playback of the burst may appear like this:
With BBE on the speaker distortion of the original sound can be minimized by enhancing the original burst at the start of the waveform from the amplification stage to produce this end result:
It's not perfect, but it is a better representation of the original waveform.
The DEH-p8650MP can sculpt the amount of BBE enhancment to better suit your speaker. +BBE enhances the signal more (compensating for poor speakers) and -BBE de emphasises the effect for more efficient, responsive (and typically more expensive) speakers. All speakers have this "colouration" of sound to some extent, so BBE is good, but in the correct dosage. For example, if you can hear your speakers giving a slapping or almost doublebass output on what should be a solid bass hit, then the BBE has exaggerated the front of the waveform too much (so turn the BBE down). If you are missing some finer detail in the music, the BBE may help give more clarity (turn it up). Very rarely would you ever need more than +2 BBE.
O.K. so we need to get to the BBE screen,
goto your AUDIO setting screen by momentarily pressing the RH knob and then turning the RH knob (scrolling) to the BBE tab.
You can change the setting up or down, or turn it off altogether by pushing up,down and pressing respectively on the RH knob.
I chose the -1 BBE position, which is just shy of the standard BBE enhancement. This seems to be the best setting for my Focals, probably because they are quite efficient already, and don't need much of a push to get them going.
more info on BBE
STANDARD vs Networking mode:
That's a whole kettle of fish that you can explore later, but basically it lets the H.U. take more control of the speakers. Phase correction is the main benefit of networking, as you can now digitally change all of your crossover settings and avoid phase change errors that passive crossovers have. Generally, you have more control over your system, but with networking, you also lose the auto TA and have to work it out manually.
BBE attempts to compensate for a speakers inertial characteristics which govern music playback. For eg,
An amplifiers output of a single frequency burst can be displayed as this waveform:
Yet, due to a speakers relative efficiency, filter networks, and physical properties of the speaker and surroundings the playback of the burst may appear like this:
With BBE on the speaker distortion of the original sound can be minimized by enhancing the original burst at the start of the waveform from the amplification stage to produce this end result:
It's not perfect, but it is a better representation of the original waveform.
The DEH-p8650MP can sculpt the amount of BBE enhancment to better suit your speaker. +BBE enhances the signal more (compensating for poor speakers) and -BBE de emphasises the effect for more efficient, responsive (and typically more expensive) speakers. All speakers have this "colouration" of sound to some extent, so BBE is good, but in the correct dosage. For example, if you can hear your speakers giving a slapping or almost doublebass output on what should be a solid bass hit, then the BBE has exaggerated the front of the waveform too much (so turn the BBE down). If you are missing some finer detail in the music, the BBE may help give more clarity (turn it up). Very rarely would you ever need more than +2 BBE.
O.K. so we need to get to the BBE screen,
goto your AUDIO setting screen by momentarily pressing the RH knob and then turning the RH knob (scrolling) to the BBE tab.
You can change the setting up or down, or turn it off altogether by pushing up,down and pressing respectively on the RH knob.
I chose the -1 BBE position, which is just shy of the standard BBE enhancement. This seems to be the best setting for my Focals, probably because they are quite efficient already, and don't need much of a push to get them going.
more info on BBE
STANDARD vs Networking mode:
That's a whole kettle of fish that you can explore later, but basically it lets the H.U. take more control of the speakers. Phase correction is the main benefit of networking, as you can now digitally change all of your crossover settings and avoid phase change errors that passive crossovers have. Generally, you have more control over your system, but with networking, you also lose the auto TA and have to work it out manually.
Setting the Auto Time Alignment and Auto Equalizer properly:
to get the best from your auto TA, I suggest that you let the H.U. work out the best settings and go from there. This means that it's best to turn all of your amplifiers low and high pass filters OFF (which cause phase differences) and let the H.U. digitally sculpt each speakers output high and low settings.
I also suggest that you have your system running for about 5mins prior at moderate levels to get all the componets warmed up. This will make sure the eq settings get changed for the normal operation status of the system, with speakers and amps warmed up (podantic, I know!!)
Big things that can change the TA settings are speaker polarity, placement and passive filters...
To engage the auto eq:
From the normal playback screen:
goto your audio screen (press RH knob)
scroll (turn knob anitclockwise or clockwise) to the listening position tab:
from here select where you will want the TA to be carried out (basically where the microphone will be). I've chosen the drivers position.
Now turn the H.U. off (with the ignition still on) and press the EQ button (to the bottom right of the the LH knob) for over 2 seconds:
it will then move to this position:
to get the best from your auto TA, I suggest that you let the H.U. work out the best settings and go from there. This means that it's best to turn all of your amplifiers low and high pass filters OFF (which cause phase differences) and let the H.U. digitally sculpt each speakers output high and low settings.
I also suggest that you have your system running for about 5mins prior at moderate levels to get all the componets warmed up. This will make sure the eq settings get changed for the normal operation status of the system, with speakers and amps warmed up (podantic, I know!!)
Big things that can change the TA settings are speaker polarity, placement and passive filters...
To engage the auto eq:
From the normal playback screen:
goto your audio screen (press RH knob)
scroll (turn knob anitclockwise or clockwise) to the listening position tab:
from here select where you will want the TA to be carried out (basically where the microphone will be). I've chosen the drivers position.
Now turn the H.U. off (with the ignition still on) and press the EQ button (to the bottom right of the the LH knob) for over 2 seconds:
it will then move to this position:
O.K. now you have to put the mic. as close to your normal listening position as you can get.
grab some tape and sit as normal in the front RH seat. Now place the tape on the roof so it hangs down just where your head normally sits:
Adjust the seat so the headrest touches the tape:
Now you can place the mic onto the headrest, ajusting the headrest vertically,so that it is at your heads normal position:
plug the mic. into the H.U. (underside of faceplate) and push the RH knob for a 10 second countdown to start:
Hop out and close the door!!!
The H.U. will first adjust the RH,LH speakers and the subwoofers equalizer settings (high pass, low pass ,filter slopes) for different spl levels using white noise.
Then it moves onto the "tick" response for TA, and finally it will set the equalizer for the flattest response curve.
At the end (6 mins approx duration) you will get the complete message at the bottom of the screen:
And your finished!!
Lets us know if you want to go into greater detail on the front and rear high pass settings ,and the sub woofer settings, and y the H.U. may place your time alignment of the components to 4m away!!!
grab some tape and sit as normal in the front RH seat. Now place the tape on the roof so it hangs down just where your head normally sits:
Adjust the seat so the headrest touches the tape:
Now you can place the mic onto the headrest, ajusting the headrest vertically,so that it is at your heads normal position:
plug the mic. into the H.U. (underside of faceplate) and push the RH knob for a 10 second countdown to start:
Hop out and close the door!!!
The H.U. will first adjust the RH,LH speakers and the subwoofers equalizer settings (high pass, low pass ,filter slopes) for different spl levels using white noise.
Then it moves onto the "tick" response for TA, and finally it will set the equalizer for the flattest response curve.
At the end (6 mins approx duration) you will get the complete message at the bottom of the screen:
And your finished!!
Lets us know if you want to go into greater detail on the front and rear high pass settings ,and the sub woofer settings, and y the H.U. may place your time alignment of the components to 4m away!!!
When you get bored with the H.U. standard display, download the OEL Screensaver Studio software and start creating your own displays.
The P8650MP is limited to changing only the 2nd video, 4th background video, the background images and none of the funky graphic equalizer displays.
When putting images in, be wary that the screen cannot display the colour green, and will make it an orange or grey tint instead...
After you have used the software and made an LKA file (screensaver file), you will have to then burn it onto a disc (as a data disc).
__________________
Downloading a screensaver to your H.U.
Turn off H.U. with your ign on (as per AutoEQ) and press the buttons "EQ" and "Band/Esc" on your front panel for over 2 secs.
The H.U. will spit the disc that is in it out and ask for the LKA file disc (the one you just made)
put the disc in and it should begin to download it!!!!
N.B. GEEEEEEZ!!! It takes a while to download it into the H.U. (about 10mins for a full LKA file) so you may as well get some coffee and watch T.V. while you wait...
If you want to update just one bit of the LKA file then simply make an LKA with only the part you wish to change (just a picture) and the rest will remain the same when the new LKA is downloaded onto the H.U.
The P8650MP is limited to changing only the 2nd video, 4th background video, the background images and none of the funky graphic equalizer displays.
When putting images in, be wary that the screen cannot display the colour green, and will make it an orange or grey tint instead...
After you have used the software and made an LKA file (screensaver file), you will have to then burn it onto a disc (as a data disc).
__________________
Downloading a screensaver to your H.U.
Turn off H.U. with your ign on (as per AutoEQ) and press the buttons "EQ" and "Band/Esc" on your front panel for over 2 secs.
The H.U. will spit the disc that is in it out and ask for the LKA file disc (the one you just made)
put the disc in and it should begin to download it!!!!
N.B. GEEEEEEZ!!! It takes a while to download it into the H.U. (about 10mins for a full LKA file) so you may as well get some coffee and watch T.V. while you wait...
If you want to update just one bit of the LKA file then simply make an LKA with only the part you wish to change (just a picture) and the rest will remain the same when the new LKA is downloaded onto the H.U.
Downloading a screensaver to your H.U.
Turn off H.U. with your ign on (as per AutoEQ) and press the buttons "EQ" and "Band/Esc" on your front panel for over 2 secs.
The H.U. will spit the disc that is in it out and ask for the LKA file disc (the one you just made)
put the disc in and it should begin to download it!!!!
N.B. GEEEEEEZ!!! It takes a while to download it into the H.U. (about 10mins for a full LKA file) so you may as well get some coffee and watch T.V. while you wait...
If you want to update just one bit of the LKA file then simply make an LKA with only the part you wish to change (just a picture) and the rest will remain the same when the new LKA is downloaded onto the H.U.
Turn off H.U. with your ign on (as per AutoEQ) and press the buttons "EQ" and "Band/Esc" on your front panel for over 2 secs.
The H.U. will spit the disc that is in it out and ask for the LKA file disc (the one you just made)
put the disc in and it should begin to download it!!!!
N.B. GEEEEEEZ!!! It takes a while to download it into the H.U. (about 10mins for a full LKA file) so you may as well get some coffee and watch T.V. while you wait...
If you want to update just one bit of the LKA file then simply make an LKA with only the part you wish to change (just a picture) and the rest will remain the same when the new LKA is downloaded onto the H.U.
Be wary that the slope for the sub can be set at a maximum of 18Db in STD mode. To get the 36Db low pass filter, the H.U. must be in Networking mode.
Actually..... Have you made sure you aren't using the H.U. in networking mode? It's a little switch on the back of the H.U. that enables an alternative setting for the pre-outs....
Very informative!
sdmtnbiker420
10+ year member
GAME 4 SALE
wow thast bad ***
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