Enclosure design for pt cruiser

  • 2
    Participant count
  • Participants list

JustinStone

aspiring nutrient
89
13
Florida
subenclosure-page-001 (2).jpg

subenclosure2-page-001.jpg



Updated plans for the hatchback sub in a pt cruiser.
 
Dual D1000a's, tuned to 40Hz, and 10" Redline 700's. The bottom shelf is seperate from the subwoofer enclosure and serves to preserve the Gt Cruiser as much as possible.

The volume is 6.79ft^3, with an 8" port that's 10" long.

Should the inside or outside of the box be lined with deadener, or something similar? The outside will be lined with carpet regardless.
 
Last edited:
6.7 cube net is big for pair of 10s. You could do pair of 12s nicely in that airspace if you haven't already bought subs (assuming this is net). Which direction do you plan to aim this box?
 
6.7 cube net is big for pair of 10s. You could do pair of 12s nicely in that airspace if you haven't already bought subs (assuming this is net). Which direction do you plan to aim this box?
The opening with access to the amps faces the decklid. I don't really have much more space to work with diameter-wise, so how much ft3 should be appropriate for two tens? I could definitely cut the depth down from 19".
 
The opening with access to the amps faces the decklid. I don't really have much more space to work with diameter-wise, so how much ft3 should be appropriate for two tens? I could definitely cut the depth down from 19".
I think 5 cube for the pair might be a little better. 6 is acceptable but on the large side even, though you'll need to adjust your port length accordingly as you modify volume of course.

If you can shorten the box front to back a little to keep a port width away from the rear hatch you may have better results on music aiming subs and port to the rear. Everything aimed forward will likely meter louder though if you aim to compete at all.
 
I think 5 cube for the pair might be a little better. 6 is acceptable but on the large side even, though you'll need to adjust your port length accordingly as you modify volume of course.

If you can shorten the box front to back a little to keep a port width away from the rear hatch you may have better results on music aiming subs and port to the rear. Everything aimed forward will likely meter louder though if you aim to compete at all.
after adjustment to 4.99ft3, the port will be 11.1 inches long. Additionally, the current plan is to have the subs straight horizontal with no tilt. The lower cabin is purely for amplifier placement, and facing it towards the decklid just makes it easier to work on. Should I add a tilt to the subwoofer mounts in order to "aim" them in the direction of the cabbin? or can I keep it level? The tilt would make the fabrication process relatively difficult but if I must, I can...
 
after adjustment to 4.99ft3, the port will be 11.1 inches long. Additionally, the current plan is to have the subs straight horizontal with no tilt. The lower cabin is purely for amplifier placement, and facing it towards the decklid just makes it easier to work on. Should I add a tilt to the subwoofer mounts in order to "aim" them in the direction of the cabbin? or can I keep it level? The tilt would make the fabrication process relatively difficult but if I must, I can...

No need to angle the baffle. Doing so would become a nightmare to get a port on that face anyway. And I know you seem set on having the amps built into the box, but this is always bad for amps to mount them to a box. They may fail prematurely from vibration damage. Reconsider making your amp board separate if possible.
 
No need to angle the baffle. Doing so would become a nightmare to get a port on that face anyway. And I know you seem set on having the amps built into the box, but this is always bad for amps to mount them to a box. They may fail prematurely from vibration damage. Reconsider making your amp board separate if possible.
I can dampen the vibration easily by using 1/8" nitrile sheets where the amps mount onto the board, as well as the connection to the main enclosure I believe, or is it a bad idea to set the amp on what is essentially rubber?
 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

I thought about running two 1 inch dowels, top to bottom and side to port side. I am going to run 2 baffles, so will be 1 1/4" thick front.
4
1K
Could not tell you, but you may want to start by going to crutchfield and get a consensus on the 7 or so replacements they recommend. That average...
1
516
You could try to make the port longer, but there might be other reasons with the box won't extend lower, or even the sub. You'd have to reverse...
3
500

About this thread

JustinStone

aspiring nutrient
Thread starter
JustinStone
Joined
Location
Florida
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
7
Views
1,254
Last reply date
Last reply from
JustinStone
1000006564.jpg

Mr FaceCaser

    Mar 28, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
1000006569.jpg

Mr FaceCaser

    Mar 28, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top