The opening with access to the amps faces the decklid. I don't really have much more space to work with diameter-wise, so how much ft3 should be appropriate for two tens? I could definitely cut the depth down from 19".6.7 cube net is big for pair of 10s. You could do pair of 12s nicely in that airspace if you haven't already bought subs (assuming this is net). Which direction do you plan to aim this box?
I think 5 cube for the pair might be a little better. 6 is acceptable but on the large side even, though you'll need to adjust your port length accordingly as you modify volume of course.The opening with access to the amps faces the decklid. I don't really have much more space to work with diameter-wise, so how much ft3 should be appropriate for two tens? I could definitely cut the depth down from 19".
after adjustment to 4.99ft3, the port will be 11.1 inches long. Additionally, the current plan is to have the subs straight horizontal with no tilt. The lower cabin is purely for amplifier placement, and facing it towards the decklid just makes it easier to work on. Should I add a tilt to the subwoofer mounts in order to "aim" them in the direction of the cabbin? or can I keep it level? The tilt would make the fabrication process relatively difficult but if I must, I can...I think 5 cube for the pair might be a little better. 6 is acceptable but on the large side even, though you'll need to adjust your port length accordingly as you modify volume of course.
If you can shorten the box front to back a little to keep a port width away from the rear hatch you may have better results on music aiming subs and port to the rear. Everything aimed forward will likely meter louder though if you aim to compete at all.
after adjustment to 4.99ft3, the port will be 11.1 inches long. Additionally, the current plan is to have the subs straight horizontal with no tilt. The lower cabin is purely for amplifier placement, and facing it towards the decklid just makes it easier to work on. Should I add a tilt to the subwoofer mounts in order to "aim" them in the direction of the cabbin? or can I keep it level? The tilt would make the fabrication process relatively difficult but if I must, I can...
I can dampen the vibration easily by using 1/8" nitrile sheets where the amps mount onto the board, as well as the connection to the main enclosure I believe, or is it a bad idea to set the amp on what is essentially rubber?No need to angle the baffle. Doing so would become a nightmare to get a port on that face anyway. And I know you seem set on having the amps built into the box, but this is always bad for amps to mount them to a box. They may fail prematurely from vibration damage. Reconsider making your amp board separate if possible.