Electrical Loses Charge Overnight.. amp is off

update:

jumpstarted car - battery runs around 13.5-13.8V while idling

I had car running with no system on for almost an hour.

I turn off the car - and try to turn it back on right away - nothing but the solenoid click.

The dashboard lights come on and I can run my headlights but but the engine doesn't turn over at all.

Battery -> 11.19V

Diagnosis?

 
Run the car for an hour and then see if the battery charges back up. If not, then take the battery to Autozone to have it charged and load tested. Have the alt load tested as well. It is one of the two that is bad, just need to narrow it down.

 
you need a new battery, hell my stock fit battery thats been sitting for like 6months was at like 12.1v, and i just charged it in like a minute. gonna put it back in the car tomorrow and take out the d5100r. any parts place should d oa batt test for free. usually it doesnt have enough cranking amps from all the bad batts ive had tested

 
Alright well I'm going to bring my battery to get tested first, then possibly try and wrangle the Alt out to get tested.

Question:

Considering cost effectiveness and continued performance as the most important things -

Should I get a H/O Alt

Just a new under the hood battery? (Red Top?)

Or cheap under-hood battery and deep cycle in the rear?

Again.. I don't drive too much anymore but would like a cheap solution that will guarantee me I won't have to keep coming back and fixing things..

 
what kinda car is it? what batt size is it? everstart maxx batts are pretty good and inexpensive from walmart. you dont need to take the alt out to test it. im sure the alt is fine and its just the battery.

 
you dont have an actual battery charger? When you let it idle turn **** on in the car, most cars just letting it sit and idle wont charge the battery, its just enough to run the car.

 
what kinda car is it? what batt size is it? everstart maxx batts are pretty good and inexpensive from walmart. you dont need to take the alt out to test it. im sure the alt is fine and its just the battery.
http://catalog2.genpt.com/catviewer15/(zmljtu45byel1dizjvbbhz55)/Catalog/Detail.aspx?ShowPics=1&R=NBP7558_0222631311

That's the battery they put in there.. just some NAPA.

and if I wanted to test the alt I would need more than a DMM no? Because if I want to test it at Autozone or somewhere I gotta remove it.

you dont have an actual battery charger? When you let it idle turn **** on in the car, most cars just letting it sit and idle wont charge the battery, its just enough to run the car.
Also - when I first jumped the battery I ran the car and got gas so I drove about a mile as well although I didn't run anything. I'm going to try running stuff to actually charge it but I've never had to do that before. Right now I'm having a tough time even trying to jump it again off my battery booster.

 
yeah, they take the testing equipment out to the car, you wont take the stuff in. plus how would a alt function with no belts turning it

 
yeah, they take the testing equipment out to the car, you wont take the stuff in. plus how would a alt function with no belts turning it
they have a machine inside to do bench test, it has a motor with a pulley and they put a belt on it and spin it at certain speeds

 
update:
jumpstarted car - battery runs around 13.5-13.8V while idling

I had car running with no system on for almost an hour.

I turn off the car - and try to turn it back on right away - nothing but the solenoid click.

The dashboard lights come on and I can run my headlights but but the engine doesn't turn over at all.

Battery -> 11.19V

Diagnosis?
11.19V= bad battery, 13.8V running= good alt and voltage reg. Get a new battery.

 
got a new battery. optima red top. disconnected my entire stereo wiring.

tried starting car few days later - no dice.

battery voltage at 4V!

gotta be some kind of drainage

 
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