Effective sound proofing trick.

[Rawr-DQ 10+ year member]

I did something similar, but hell no, not with my car, the foam I was using clogged up, so I made a small hole in it and used that to spray it where I needed...to help seal in a window unit I was putting in for some joe.

It worked without scooping foam into place (//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/hilarious.gif.02a037aad04aa96f19982b298a3d70a8.gif) but it was still pretty messy, that and it empties all it contents not matter what, so you're left with a giant foam brain.

You're pretty ghetto //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif, I'd like to see pics of the rest of your sound deadending. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Buffalohed 10+ year member]

Next time I take my shit apart to add more deadening I will take some pics, if I remember.

 

[nobb 10+ year member]

Yea please do take more pics! Especially if you try to do the underbody. Id also love to see the rest of your sound deadening, as I am obsessed like you.

I am actually going to attempt what you did. I dunno if I should use the home depot stuff like you, or this other stuff that I found at canadian tire (says its made for automobiles). The wheel wells must be tricky, did you get any of the stuff on your springs? I hope I dont have to take off my tires, so much work.

Also, my wheel wells are covered in mud, and its really hard to get off. How did you clean your wheel wells before applying the deadener?

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Cover that gaping hole with 1/8" plywood, fill the whole thing in with expanding foam, then cover that whole bish up with mat. You'll notice the improvement, I promise. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Foaming your doors shouldn't cause too much of a water issue if 1) you be sure to use closed cell foam, it does not soak up water at all and is best acoustically, and 2) if you be sure to not plug up your drain holes in the bottom of the doors. Undercoating the inside of the door before is a good idea though too.

 

[rbutler]

Great advise! I too picked up a 5 gallon bucket of the roof cement at HD $28 and used a trowel with a 1/4 tooth to apply it. I am doing a restoration of a 68 Chevelle and tried about $400 worth of mats and blanket deadeners. Your advise was worth a try. Last weekend I did the trunk, wheel wells and sides. I used a 3" roller to apply the goop in small sections. I then applied aluminum foil over the goop. After 3 days of 70+ weather I again started working on the car and after a few minutes I noticed the oder was gone and the tar had hardened enough to work on the carpet and jute. Today I drove it around town showing off. The reduction of noice is "incredible". I will rolled the inside fenders tonight to further quiet the beast down and may take the cabin carpet out for a treat ment under the expensive high priced blank junk. I will add only one thing and that will be plastic cover over the aluminum foil in the cabin for a vapor bearer---just in case!

Smooth cruzin 68

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Wow. NOT worth it.

nG

 

[fbi90909 5,000+ posts]

lawl.

 

[azbass 5,000+ posts]

If anyone has seen my previous posts/threads on sound deadening you know I am somewhat obsessive about it. I have tried and experimented with **** near everything to further quiet my car, and am always trying new things.
Anyway, the most recent mini-project I did made the biggest difference since I first deadened the front doors.

I have a bucket of butyl/asphalt roof flashing cement which I coated the outer rear wheel wells with about 1/4-1/2 inch of. Now it is a messy process, I got the stuff all over my hands/arms and some on my car, but that is because I'm sloppy. I also used the same stuff in the trunk.

It smells for a couple days but boy it made a huge!!! difference in road noise. Almost all of the noise in my car now comes from my engine and the windows. I can't attest to the longevity of this treatment, it's only been a few days, but reapplying it should be no problem if it melts off or something (mine is tested to 250 degrees).

It's real cheap, takes maybe 30 minutes, and is hugely effective. Next I am going to do my front wheel wells. By the way, it is much easier if you jack up the car a few inches near the wheel you are working on, gives you more room to work.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

***PICS***

I told you it was a messy job //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

And here is the inside of my rear door, just for the hell of it. It looks like shit, but it works!

um yeah I would never do anything like that to my car.. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

 

[xpq123]

Hi, I'm getting ready to try putting roof flashing cement in the outer wheel well surfaces of my 2007 Toyota Rav4. Can you recommend a particular brand of cement? I can't tell which brands contain butyl. Also, my wheel wells are partly metal and partly plastic. Is there any need to remove the plastic and coat whatever is under there--assuming there IS something under there?

Thanks for this interesting idea!

3-4 layers of raamat where the floor is thin, 3 layers of ensolite everywhere, and some pink insulation foam (not the fiberglass stuff) that I had laying around. To be honest I was pretty disappointed with the results of floor deadening, which I did about a week after the trunk and doors.
I haven't really seen any body cavities that I could fill with foam. Maybe I just don't know where to look //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

The wheelwells are really flimsy plastic behind the wheel, but above and forward of the wheel it is metal with some kind of plastic coating. I also tried to get as much up around the brakes/axle assembly above the tire as possible, without actually getting it on the parts of course.

 

[phantom240 5,000+ posts]

Hi, I'm getting ready to try putting roof flashing cement in the outer wheel well surfaces of my 2007 Toyota Rav4. Can you recommend a particular brand of cement? I can't tell which brands contain butyl. Also, my wheel wells are partly metal and partly plastic. Is there any need to remove the plastic and coat whatever is under there--assuming there IS something under there?
Thanks for this interesting idea!

Good job digging up a three year old thread, n00bcake.

 

[lostdaytomorrow 10+ year member]

At least he's searching man... no reason for a new thread about the same exact thing.