ebay hid kit sucess??

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

you are stupid to think 55w isnt blinding....do some IRL research

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

you are stupid to think 55w isnt blinding....do some IRL research

ive seen video and talked to people who used 55w in halogens ..and yes it scatters light to **** ..i know that but they saod they dont get flashed for it ...i would buy projectors no problem but all the ones i see for.my car have horrible.leds and halos

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

like i said before i havent even bouht the housings that i plan on putting.the hids in yet

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

okay, when you go to 55watt, the biggest thing you have to consider is the heat. it's 50/50 that 35w will melt aftermarket housings, and some few cars even the stock. next, i think the only harness that i would trust even coming close to being good enough is from the 80's. not that it can't support the power, but there will be a great deal more resistance in the wire, and give "dirty" voltage by the time it hits the ballast. i would only ever run 55watters from battery power, via relay, of course. you could use one relay for both. as for putting hid's in "halogen" housings, it's really a matter of which housing. it doesn't have to be a projector. many, sport glare shields, that work fine, and all will need to be re-aimed. that right there is the #1 problem. the gas pocket is typically in a slightly different spot than where a filament would be, and they end up being high.

addressing the need for high-beams: high beams aren't called "high beam" in regards to the brightness, rather than the level of aim. put the same light in a high beam and low beam, and the high is always higher. even in a dual filament, the high beam filament is below and further back than the low, so reflection angles are higher, and narrower. definitely do the conversion, so that the low beam does not turn off on high, you will thank yourself when it doesn't go dark waiting for the bulb to warm back up. 35w is just fine for low beams unless you pick a higher color (also check what is legel in your area. 10k/k is the limit here.) i had 10's in mine, as is about the most popular around here, and then switched to 8k recently. the apperance still looked real good, (not much difference you can tell without sitting side-by-side), but the road visibility is night-and-day difference, especially in the rain. if you are unsure about the relay kit, just get it. i would always advise that. the only question is if you absolutely need it. if you want something to really reach out there, get driving lights (aka "fog lights")with glass projector lenses. they are not cheap, but they actually work. i spent $200 on mine at a steal.

oh, and fyi: to whoever stated that an insurance company won't honor a claim over h.i.d. lights, well, that has got to be one rare dikc head to do that. i've done insurance repairs, and out-done the insurance adjusters on the estimates many times.... since i owned all their same official books at my shop.... just this last year alone, i know of 2 different major companies that actually pay for new h.i.d. bulbs and/or kits if dirt gets on the bulbs, or any other minor damage to the lights, wires, and/or ballasts. i haven't done it for living for a long azz time, but i still know my way about the insurance co's..

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

okay, when you go to 55watt, the biggest thing you have to consider is the heat. it's 50/50 that 35w will melt aftermarket housings, and some few cars even the stock. next, i think the only harness that i would trust even coming close to being good enough is from the 80's. not that it can't support the power, but there will be a great deal more resistance in the wire, and give "dirty" voltage by the time it hits the ballast. i would only ever run 55watters from battery power, via relay, of course. you could use one relay for both. as for putting hid's in "halogen" housings, it's really a matter of which housing. it doesn't have to be a projector. many, sport glare shields, that work fine, and all will need to be re-aimed. that right there is the #1 problem. the gas pocket is typically in a slightly different spot than where a filament would be, and they end up being high.
addressing the need for high-beams: high beams aren't called "high beam" in regards to the brightness, rather than the level of aim. put the same light in a high beam and low beam, and the high is always higher. even in a dual filament, the high beam filament is below and further back than the low, so reflection angles are higher, and narrower. definitely do the conversion, so that the low beam does not turn off on high, you will thank yourself when it doesn't go dark waiting for the bulb to warm back up. 35w is just fine for low beams unless you pick a higher color (also check what is legel in your area. 10k/k is the limit here.) i had 10's in mine, as is about the most popular around here, and then switched to 8k recently. the apperance still looked real good, (not much difference you can tell without sitting side-by-side), but the road visibility is night-and-day difference, especially in the rain. if you are unsure about the relay kit, just get it. i would always advise that. the only question is if you absolutely need it. if you want something to really reach out there, get driving lights (aka "fog lights")with glass projector lenses. they are not cheap, but they actually work. i spent $200 on mine at a steal.

oh, and fyi: to whoever stated that an insurance company won't honor a claim over h.i.d. lights, well, that has got to be one rare dikc head to do that. i've done insurance repairs, and out-done the insurance adjusters on the estimates many times.... since i owned all their same official books at my shop.... just this last year alone, i know of 2 different major companies that actually pay for new h.i.d. bulbs and/or kits if dirt gets on the bulbs, or any other minor damage to the lights, wires, and/or ballasts. i haven't done it for living for a long azz time, but i still know my way about the insurance co's..

thanks for all the info ..some i knew and some was new...and i was looking at 55w 8or 10 k and the housings im getting are halogen style but are all black and have a quite smaller deflector behind them....as far as melting with 35 never heard that..but ive talked to people with 55 and they say it melted harness not lens..but then some ppl say 55 ran fine in theire car no problem...i will also be running a set in my fog lights as well

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

not always right. My high beams are lower and in the center of the headlights. my low beam are on the outside and higher than the high beam.....

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

if u go back a few pages i posted the link to the lights im wanting

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

not always right. My high beams are lower and in the center of the headlights. my low beam are on the outside and higher than the high beam.....

they might be mounted higher in lens but aiming is a diff thing ..ur high beams should aim higher than low beams regardless of placement in housing

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

okay, when you go to 55watt, the biggest thing you have to consider is the heat. it's 50/50 that 35w will melt aftermarket housings, and some few cars even the stock. next, i think the only harness that i would trust even coming close to being good enough is from the 80's. not that it can't support the power, but there will be a great deal more resistance in the wire, and give "dirty" voltage by the time it hits the ballast. i would only ever run 55watters from battery power, via relay, of course. you could use one relay for both. as for putting hid's in "halogen" housings, it's really a matter of which housing. it doesn't have to be a projector. many, sport glare shields, that work fine, and all will need to be re-aimed. that right there is the #1 problem. the gas pocket is typically in a slightly different spot than where a filament would be, and they end up being high.
addressing the need for high-beams: high beams aren't called "high beam" in regards to the brightness, rather than the level of aim. put the same light in a high beam and low beam, and the high is always higher. even in a dual filament, the high beam filament is below and further back than the low, so reflection angles are higher, and narrower. definitely do the conversion, so that the low beam does not turn off on high, you will thank yourself when it doesn't go dark waiting for the bulb to warm back up. 35w is just fine for low beams unless you pick a higher color (also check what is legel in your area. 10k/k is the limit here.) i had 10's in mine, as is about the most popular around here, and then switched to 8k recently. the apperance still looked real good, (not much difference you can tell without sitting side-by-side), but the road visibility is night-and-day difference, especially in the rain. if you are unsure about the relay kit, just get it. i would always advise that. the only question is if you absolutely need it. if you want something to really reach out there, get driving lights (aka "fog lights")with glass projector lenses. they are not cheap, but they actually work. i spent $200 on mine at a steal.

oh, and fyi: to whoever stated that an insurance company won't honor a claim over h.i.d. lights, well, that has got to be one rare dikc head to do that. i've done insurance repairs, and out-done the insurance adjusters on the estimates many times.... since i owned all their same official books at my shop.... just this last year alone, i know of 2 different major companies that actually pay for new h.i.d. bulbs and/or kits if dirt gets on the bulbs, or any other minor damage to the lights, wires, and/or ballasts. i haven't done it for living for a long azz time, but i still know my way about the insurance co's..

Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=320949860515

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

Post

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

Post

thanks?? lol

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

any more input?

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

**** no more advice or ppl used them??

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

anyone?

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=320949860515

look like they have a good amount of space to keep them cool, plus the glare shields are sealed on the front, which should appease some. the back looks like you may have to do a little modding to put wires through those screw caps, and keep them sealed, though.