duel amps...

something thats bothering me is if it is ok to just have the 2nd battery grounded to the cars chasis... or does there need to be a run from the first battery's neg to the 2nds neg?

 
wait a minute, OMFG i just realized why the past 5 amps i've owned have been defected and fried................. i have always grounded them to the same part of the trunk and have just now realized that it is mostly plastic, i'll be back i've got somethings to take care of.

 
does this guy have 2 IA20.1's? no. he has 2 pioneer gm7200s. im sure the new line of hifonics is just as much money and puts out more power for the money (what it seems like he wants)
i dont know where you came outta no where with the IA statement tho...i was comaring to his amps (read his other thread as well, where he blew one up.)
I was using the IA 20.1s as an example because I couldnt decipher your post. I couldnt tell if you were talking about the Pioneers he bought or any 2 amplifiers....

dual amps in general ****. get something better. hifonics is better than dual.
 
This thread is full of a bunch of hard to decipher info...

Thread starter...

START OVER

-Run a single 4ga. Power wire to a distrobution block, from there run 2 8 gauge wires to each amp.

-Run a single 4ga. Ground wire to the Frame of your car sanded to bare metal (Floor if you have a uni-body car) and run it to a ground distrobution block, from there run 2 8gauge wires to each amp.

-Im pretty sure that those amps arent strappable...so you are going to have to gain match the amps to make sure that they are putting out the exact same ammount of power. Take a DMM and set it to AC Voltage and play a 45hz test tone on REPEAT on your CD player. And take your DMM set on AC voltage and touch the probes to the speaker terminals on amp #1...set the gain via the steps in the gain setting tutorial, and the repeat these steps for amp #2...MAKE SURE THE VOLTAGE YOU LEAVE THE GAIN ON IS THE SAME FOR EACH AMP.

-Now run your speaker leads to each repsective sub...not sure of the specs on this amp but it either does its power at 4ohms bridged (if its a 2 channel) or 2ohms (if its a mono amp).

Thats about it, other than running little things like a remote lead, and RCAs...and as far as RCAs go...you CAN Daisy chain those if the amps have a line-out RCA connection on the amp.

 
This thread is full of a bunch of hard to decipher info...
Thread starter...

START OVER

-Run a single 4ga. Power wire to a distrobution block, from there run 2 8 gauge wires to each amp.

-Run a single 4ga. Ground wire to the Frame of your car sanded to bare metal (Floor if you have a uni-body car) and run it to a ground distrobution block, from there run 2 8gauge wires to each amp.

-Im pretty sure that those amps arent strappable...so you are going to have to gain match the amps to make sure that they are putting out the exact same ammount of power. Take a DMM and set it to AC Voltage and play a 45hz test tone on REPEAT on your CD player. And take your DMM set on AC voltage and touch the probes to the speaker terminals on amp #1...set the gain via the steps in the gain setting tutorial, and the repeat these steps for amp #2...MAKE SURE THE VOLTAGE YOU LEAVE THE GAIN ON IS THE SAME FOR EACH AMP.

-Now run your speaker leads to each repsective sub...not sure of the specs on this amp but it either does its power at 4ohms bridged (if its a 2 channel) or 2ohms (if its a mono amp).

Thats about it, other than running little things like a remote lead, and RCAs...and as far as RCAs go...you CAN Daisy chain those if the amps have a line-out RCA connection on the amp.
ALRIGHT, i think im done for a long time now... i started over, used the distros like you suggested with the wiring sizes as welll, get everything layed out just right etc etc, whip out a dmm and set both fing amps to the same good gain and then get everything just right. I go and turn on the same bass song that i have been testing out the methods with and wtf happens? Im not kidding when i say that i havn't seen those subs move with that much excursion, but what i don't understand is where the **** bass is... the sound was hardly there and when i shut my trunk, the **** thing hardly rattled as compared to just running one amp on both subs at 2 ohms. I was so pissed off i nearly ripped one of the amps out and slamed the mofo on the ground. So my main concern now is how the hell do subs move more air and yet cause less sound? All i have to say is **** 500 watts @ 4 ohms, 360 w @2 ohms sounds better and thats no joke.

 
i've thought of one last possiblity as to why 2 amps **** ***, perhaps i should of mentioned that with just one amp hooked up and at its peak it makes every light in the car go very dim on every bass hit, so maybe when i have both amps hooked up it can still only use the same amount of power as just one could because my alternator blows *** and that would mean that there would only be half the power or so to each amp and its at 4 ohms so it would only be 250 w rms total with both amps cause of 125 +125, but that still wouldn't make sense because with one it runs 360w rms @ 2 ohms. ****IT i hate ohms.

 
finally, enough trial and error and i got it working. Yeah my eletrical system is having some problems, but it wasn't the reason. I finally used a regular distroblock and i also used rca splitters. I'd used the splitters before but i split the signal at the HU itself and by the time the amps got the signal it was too weak, which is why i thought i needed a signal "booster" lol. I don't recall reading in the instructions that it's best to split the signal closest to the amps... I shoulda known that having two 17' runs of rca would be worse than just one 17' with the splitters at the amps themselves. Its a little louder than just one amp, but the difference wasn't worth $200. One problem i've noticed since getting both amps working right is simply that when i turn the volume on the HU up to around 22/34 the cd starts to skip... i wouldn't think theres that much added vibrations from 140 watts diff for that to be the reason, any ideas?

 
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