Double 1/0 CCA vs Single 2/0 CCA vs Single 1/0 OFC

[UnknowingDIYer]

I bought a hammer one from northern for $20. I’d imagine harbor freight or other discount tool places have a variant of that too. Ive crimped several 4/0 connections w out problems.

Oh yeah, I've seen those. I just think those hexagonal crimps look very pretty haha.

I will go to Harbor Freight for their 10 inch cable cutter. I heard it cuts 1/0 and 2/0 gauge wires well.

 

[ikpthegame 10+ year member]

Harbor freight sells a hydraulic crimper as well

 

[deez283 10+ year member]

These cut well and are friendly on the wallet.

Home

9-1/4" Large Gauge Wire & Cable CutterThis large diameter cable cutter is designed to cut up to 4/0 aluminum and 2/0 copper wire (9.2 mm Dia.). Carbon steel construction with extra long handles for maximum cutting leverage. Jaws of cutter are curved for a quick and easy cut while not disturbing...

www.parts-express.com

 

[HardofWhoring]

I don't know BNR, but the two numbers that matter are:
Amps at (or near) idle, &
RPM needed for max output.
A great alt will be around 2K rpms for max output. A crappy alt will be over 3K rpm. You should see where you cruise at. The alt you listed has a 1 year warranty. If you didn't know those numbers or shop around for those numbers before you bought, you missed out.

First, two d4 subs can’t be wired at 2 ohms. Your options are 1, 4 or 16 ohms.
Second, the 214 amp figure is not correct. That would require the amplifier to be 100% efficient. Which is not possible. A true 3000 watt rms burp would draw around 300 amps.

Yeah, for 3000watts / amp efficiency (some say but 85% is a safe bet). 3000w / .85 = 3529 / 14 = 252amps.

I was going to use a hydraulic crimper from amazon for like $70.

Amazon product ASIN B09Y5ZJTZ3

I bought the yellow one for $20 off amazon a few years ago. This is all the chinese stuff being inflated now too.

OFC hands down. CCA is about 40% more restrictive than OFC. By the time you add an extra fuse, and double the wire, I don't see how that couldn't cost more.

Welding wire is just packed a little tighter, and a little harder to bend. If you don't have any hard 90 degree or greater bends that you need flexibility on, then the welding wire takes up less space. FYI I have some 1/0 welding wire here, and I can make a 3 1/2" circle without stressing it. It's still pretty flexible.


Fuses need to be more than what is down past them, but less than the capability of the wire. You are intentionally creating a weak point so that if it burns through, it burns through where it is protected and can be easily fixed. The fuse needs to be more than the load. The wire needs to be more than the fuse. The wiring can be as oversized as you want it. It just costs a little more, and takes up a little more space.

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

Amps at (or near) idle, &
RPM needed for max output.
A great alt will be around 2K rpms for max output. A crappy alt will be over 3K rpm. You should see where you cruise at. The alt you listed has a 1 year warranty. If you didn't know those numbers or shop around for those numbers before you bought, you missed out.



Yeah, for 3000watts / amp efficiency (some say but 85% is a safe bet). 3000w / .85 = 3529 / 14 = 252amps.

I bought the yellow one for $20 off amazon a few years ago. This is all the chinese stuff being inflated now too.

OFC hands down. CCA is about 40% more restrictive than OFC. By the time you add an extra fuse, and double the wire, I don't see how that couldn't cost more.

Welding wire is just packed a little tighter, and a little harder to bend. If you don't have any hard 90 degree or greater bends that you need flexibility on, then the welding wire takes up less space. FYI I have some 1/0 welding wire here, and I can make a 3 1/2" circle without stressing it. It's still pretty flexible.


Fuses need to be more than what is down past them, but less than the capability of the wire. You are intentionally creating a weak point so that if it burns through, it burns through where it is protected and can be easily fixed. The fuse needs to be more than the load. The wire needs to be more than the fuse. The wiring can be as oversized as you want it. It just costs a little more, and takes up a little more space.

What about fuses between batteries?

If I have about a 10 run between my front battery and my rear battery, what size fuse should I run?

I don’t really know how to think about the current from one battery to the next? Is it all just the current of the 300 amp alternator since it’s all a parallel circuit?

Since the 10ft run is longer than the short alternator to main battery run, is it still safe to use welder wire 2/0 for that long of a run? Or should I double up and split the current?

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

Not directly related to your wiring dilemma, but in a way. I have 1 12" on 1200watts and about 150x2 going to my fronts and it blends pretty good. Sometimes still bass heavy.

60x2 is very unlikely to keep up with 2 15s on 2200+. You'll probably want to be upgrading your second amp and speakers soon. But then again depends on your style of music and what you like or if a system.

 

[2023 LTZ]

Do just one run.
Fuse it to your alternator max. If it’s a 320 get a 400. It’s in case of accident or a connection becomes detached and tries to short. That fuse blows and your potential electrical nightmare is short. Use the googler to determine what size you think you need.
Different wire size charts show different things as far as amperage/ ft but 2/0 or certainly 4/0 will be large enough on a 10’ run. Don’t worry about how many fuses. Just “protect” the wiring after each battery and before your amps. It’s simple.

 

[Boominburban]

JS is ran out of a guy's backyard in SC, maybe he got a shop the past year, but in my eyes JS and BNR Parts are both crap, but all I have in terms of options for 300+ amps.

I've been running JS alts for many years, in many different vehicles. Only had an issue once, and it was promptly taken care of. I just had a set of JS alts rebuilt that had 67,000+ mi of trouble free operation on them. They definitely are not "crap" . You won't be disappointed with them.

 

[2023 LTZ]

I've been running JS alts for many years, in many different vehicles. Only had an issue once, and it was promptly taken care of. I just had a set of JS alts rebuilt that had 67,000+ mi of trouble free operation on them. They definitely are not "crap" . You won't be disappointed with them.

Are js the same as singer?

 

[UnknowingDIYer]

I've been running JS alts for many years, in many different vehicles. Only had an issue once, and it was promptly taken care of. I just had a set of JS alts rebuilt that had 67,000+ mi of trouble free operation on them. They definitely are not "crap" . You won't be disappointed with them.

I mean they literally were made out of a residential garage. Checking the forums, people have about the same “crap” associated with them as BNR Parts.

They aren’t Mechman, but it’s all us 3.8L jeep folks have access to

I’m curious as to what speakers you put in your knee panel and roll bar. I’m having trouble confirming fitment on speakers

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Power Bastard Alternators online has Alt's for the 3.8L. 250+ amps and 125+ at idle.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I know it has been rehashed over and over, but I am still having trouble deciding the best way to wire my new HO Alt with the rest of my planned system. I would greatly appreciate the experts to give this amateur some assistance.

Build for Jeep Wrangler Unlimited:
BNR Parts 350 Amp Alternator (Purchased) Yes... I know their reputation, but only the small shops have 300+ amp alts for the 3.8L jeeps.

Dual Skar VXF-15 D4 (Purchased) wired to 4 ohm at 2,200W RMS
Sundown SFB-5000D (Purchased) 2 ohm Mono RMS 3200W

Alpine PDX-F6 (Planning)
JL Audio C2-650 Component Speakers (Planning) 60W RMS Each
JL Audio C2-650X Coaxial Speakers (Planning) 60W RMS Each

Secondary (rear) battery - TBD

Wiring - TBD Plan on purchasing through Sky High on Ebay

I am calculating the following... 157 amps (2200W / 14v) from the subwoofer and 17 amps (60W x 4 speakers / 14v) to get to 174 amp. I wanted some extra headroom because I also have some light bars on my Jeep and to account for inefficiency.

My Questions:
What size wire should I use for the Big 3? In my head, I like two runs so that I can put 300amp fuses on the lines. If I run one line, I would have to run a fuse higher than the amps output and I heard running too high of fuses becomes less effective in managing heat/fires... or am I mistaken?

What size wire should I use for the line from the main battery under the hood to the rear batter? Again, I'm thinking of two lines so I can put 300amp fuses on them?

What size secondary battery should I use? I see people suggesting just adding up the RMS. So I'm thinking between the XS Power D4900, D6500, OR D3400R?

Edit: Updated after changing calculations from 2ohm to 4ohm

Part#1
A270-300 amp alt should be just fine for 4-5k with at least two agms with 1000 CA and 800 CCA with 120 min res.( Stay away from the Optimus Red tops and Yellow Tops those are garbage batteries.) and the Big 3 done all in 1/0 OFC or Welding flex type cable copper. Use Copper Lugs and sand the coating off on them before attaching. Dontt waste money on a crimper unless you intend to use daily or monthly.A flat concrete floor with a 2lb sledge hammer works just fine then use a punch to make 3 indentions on each side with hold just fine and either Heat Shrink or use electrical tape(Your Choice). As Far as cutting the wiring? A couple snips with the end of some Fisk Gargen shears is remarkable and cuts effortlessly using the edge like snipping and not placing the entire wire in the middle to cut. Ask me as I know. LOL. The best batteries Ive used so far have been the Super Start AGM from Orileys and recently the Duralast Gold from Autozone. i like the Orileys due to being able to get the double post for my truck. the Duracell plat. are very nice as well. I recently put in 4 in my brothers van. one under the hood and 3 in a battery box for an Off grid type vehicle 34/78 batteries. No sense in spending a Shitt load of money for what you are putting in.You are deff going to need for of a front stage to keep up with the 15s @1 ohm load. Id recommend the Polk Audio MM series up front and a set of DB in the rears and the 150.4 CT Sounds amp for them. Prep the front doors while they are accessible. DO NOT PUT THE XOVERS IN THE DOORS. Many people do and they will fail sooner than placing them under the dash(Zip tie them easy enough) or under the front seats or kick panels, of which will also give you access to change the tweeter freq. if you get tired of one setting,and keeps them dry and a bit more moisture free, and from continual door slamming and possible loosing a cap or two, and a screw eventually of which now you have to remove the door panel to see WHY MY Speakers are cutting out on the right side??And what the hell is that rattling in the door?? Cont. with PART #2

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I know it has been rehashed over and over, but I am still having trouble deciding the best way to wire my new HO Alt with the rest of my planned system. I would greatly appreciate the experts to give this amateur some assistance.

Build for Jeep Wrangler Unlimited:
BNR Parts 350 Amp Alternator (Purchased) Yes... I know their reputation, but only the small shops have 300+ amp alts for the 3.8L jeeps.

Dual Skar VXF-15 D4 (Purchased) wired to 4 ohm at 2,200W RMS
Sundown SFB-5000D (Purchased) 2 ohm Mono RMS 3200W

Alpine PDX-F6 (Planning)
JL Audio C2-650 Component Speakers (Planning) 60W RMS Each
JL Audio C2-650X Coaxial Speakers (Planning) 60W RMS Each

Secondary (rear) battery - TBD

Wiring - TBD Plan on purchasing through Sky High on Ebay

I am calculating the following... 157 amps (2200W / 14v) from the subwoofer and 17 amps (60W x 4 speakers / 14v) to get to 174 amp. I wanted some extra headroom because I also have some light bars on my Jeep and to account for inefficiency.

My Questions:
What size wire should I use for the Big 3? In my head, I like two runs so that I can put 300amp fuses on the lines. If I run one line, I would have to run a fuse higher than the amps output and I heard running too high of fuses becomes less effective in managing heat/fires... or am I mistaken?

What size wire should I use for the line from the main battery under the hood to the rear batter? Again, I'm thinking of two lines so I can put 300amp fuses on them?

What size secondary battery should I use? I see people suggesting just adding up the RMS. So I'm thinking between the XS Power D4900, D6500, OR D3400R?

Edit: Updated after changing calculations from 2ohm to 4ohm

Part #2
Use 1/0 OFC Wire with a 300-350 ANL Fuse @ the Main battery and 1/0 OFC wiring to the secondary battery. second Battery ground should be done @ the Frame on the rear of the vehicle to the battery with 1/0 OFC wire from a Solid T Ground block and from there to the - on Battery is what I use. The other two outlets on the T block is used for the two amps. The poss terminal on secondary Battery use a ANL Fuse Distro block for the amplifiers
I like to use Stinger Blocks (Xscorpian is made by Stinger also) Ive never ever had any issues with Stinger well worth the money spent. They make Dammned good RCAs too.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I dont believe to know everything and I am still learning after 25 years of Car Audio being a hobby and have installed ect. but I do know what has worked for me and I like to share my experiences of failures and what has worked for me to try and help. This can be a very expensive hobby,. I myself dont have a deep pocket. I learned by blowing shittt up in the early days, as there was no internet, and very few shops close to me living way out in the sticks so to speak and learning mostly on my own. there were no RCAs for HUs back then, so we all had to use High level inputs most of the time. talking about running some wiring..LOL, kepping up with what goes where ect. It was a real PITA back then

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Ill place my recommendations as stated. But for the most part.. Do not cheap out on the Work Horse= being the HU.
Get a good quality 4-5v 3 set of RCA Out Hu for the source. Its always nice to have expandability and spend the funds on a decent HU. I like Kendwoods and Alpines atm