Do subs interfere with 3-way 6x9's

The only way to prevent this from happening is to have seperat chambers for your coaxials. I would build a Box a to house your image speaker so that they give your sound more imageing. SQ is the only way to truely call a system clean.

Does anyone have a system with a parrel monoblock amp setup? I am thinking of getting another Visonik V800XD 1500 mono vlock; so I can run them in a parelal setup. I would be getting 1000 watts rms @ four ohms and 3000 watts max @ one ohm. Let me know.

 
lol i think he made a mistake:p. To answer your question sam, the power from your amp will have to come straight from the battery. The wiring shouldn't be anything more than 8AWG otherwise problems could accur. Also make sure there is a in line fuse which is as close to your battery as possible. It shouldn't exceed you amps fuse rating. As for your headunit, the signals will have to be sent somehow and RCA cables take care of that. Your H/U should have at least 1 pre amp output. A 12v remote wire will also run from your headunit to your amp. This doesn't give the amp power. It mearly turns your amp on when you power up your headunit. I hope what I have said is right, it's pretty general. Hope it helps:)

 
thanx 4 the advice. im realy clueless about ampidge and stuff, i can wire speakers and make parcel shelves but thats where it ends. what you were saying sounds realy complex. would i just be better taking it to a shop?

 
No I don't really think you would have to take it to a shop. I didn't know crap all about car audio to start with, but I slowly relised that if you put your mind to the problem at hand, it nearly always can be solved by yourself without any professional help. I can make my explanation a bit more simple and I can take you through putting your amp in step by step if you want.

 
that would be great bass_master thanx. as long as thats cool? can i just buy a kit for all of the wiring. is it true that i have to drill straight through the bulk head to reach the battery?

 
Yeah man it's cool. You can by a amp wiring kit and that is the best way to do it. The things to check in the amp kit are:

1. It contains RCA cables.

2. The wires are of a suitable AWG eg. The wire connecting your amp to the batt should be either 8AWG or better. Speaker wire is usually about 12AWG. (AWG is the power rating of a wire and it's thickness)

3. It has a water proof fuse holder that goes in your engine bay next to your battery. The fuse shouldn't be less then your amps fuse.

4. The cables are the right length. They can be too long (just put a S shape coil into them) but not too short. NEVER cut amp wires.

5. It is the right kit for your amp. eg. either a 2CH kit or 4CH kit.

6. IT IS GOOD QUALITY! Don't ever skimp on wiring because it protects all of your exspensive components. It doesn't have to be top of the range but it must be made for car audio.

7.It s earthing cables.

Unless there is a hole that you can use to get to the engine bay, you will have to drill though the firewall to get to the battery. Just make sure you use a grommit.

Do you want me to run through setting up your amp in my next post?

 
yo bass master, so if i buy an amp wiring kit i have to run a fused cable to the amp from the batery(through the bulkhead) and then run a speaker cable from the head unit to the amp, conect the sub and my 6x9s to it and thats it?

 
Not exactly. Your right about having to drill through the bulkhead to get to the battery but it's a little more complicated then just running a speaker wire from your head unit to amp. On the back of your head unit there should be RCA pre outs. That is where the RCA cables connect to. They then run to your amp. The speaker wires then run from your amp to your speakers. Don't for get your remote wire because that will turn on the amp when you turn on your head unit. When you wire up your 3-ways, you'll want to set the amp mode onto full but for the sub you'll want it on low pass level. This will activate the low pass circuitry which is much better for you sub and amp. Amp wiring kits are the best way to go, there so easy to use!:p

 
i do understand why you need one, but how do you fit the thing to turn your amp on does it connect to the hed unit? do i run my sub as 'bridged or ohms? (4,2).

 
Yep, on the headunit's wiring harness there should be a blue wire(i think) that is your amp remote wire. This wire just simply runs from your head unit to your amp which also has a wiring harness. There is a big difference between the words "bridged" and "ohms". First of all bridged means that by using two channels of a amp and joining them together(bridging) you can therefor double the out put of that channel. This is the best if you want to run subs because they need a lot of power running to them. "Ohms" is the impedence of a speaker. Most speakers are 4 ohm and are very stable at this impedence. Some speakers are manufactured so that they can be run at 2 ohms because when a amp is run in 2 ohm mode, it's output is doubled. eg. a channel running 200W in 4ohm mode can run 400W in 2ohm mode. The downfall of running speakers that have a 2ohm impedence is that if your running a cheap low class amp, it's very stressful for it and my blow it. There is heaps that I could say about ohms and if you want me to elaborate I will but I think that your subs would most likely run in 4ohm mode(mine do).

 
oh rite i think i get it. i really want to run my sub and my 6b9s through my amp but myh amps only 2 chanel, can this still be done?

 
Unfortunatly no. You have three choices:

1.You can run your 6x9's (one on each channel). No sub

2.You can run your sub in bridged mode and your 6x9's of your head unit.

3. Buy a 4 channel amp.

Choice two is what I would go with if your strapped for cash or don't want two amps but choice three is better if your after a clean install. Just out of interest, what sub, amp and 6x9's do you currently own? Just so I can have a better idea on what you'll need to do when you wire them up

 
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