do i need extra battery for my system

[smiley2186 10+ year member]

garrett how do u want for the battery and the fuse holder/dist block? 50? where are u located im in san diego might need it shipped, do u have paypal? if so i would be very interested in purchasing it. and is it still in good, why are u selling it if i make ask thanks

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

You run 1/0 back to your new battery. There should be an inline fuse at the front battery and also at that back battery for short protection on both ends. You can kind of see my back fuse on the bottom left of the picture. The ground you only need to run from the back battery as close as possible to a body ground, not to the front battery (mine runs to the safety belt bolt).
I am selling the battery pictured //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif If you want, I can include the fuse holder/dist block and the dist block as pictured for say another $50 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

why should u not run the ground to the front battery

 

[garrettpf 10+ year member]

Total would actually be $250 with the two distro block that are on top of the battery. I am selling my entire system out as I need to work on my house so I need the cash. And I don't use my car too much in winter since I live in WI and it is a diesel.

So, if you want it as pictured for $250 shipped you can have the battery, the fused distro block and the neg distro block. You will then only need to get the wire to the back and inline fuses for that. You will also need to get ring terminals for the pos and neg to the battery. Other then that is is ready to go. And the distro blocks accept 2-4ga wires and 2-8ga wires as pictured with my system.

I am about to take off for the day so I will PM you my phone number.

HERE is a link to my forsale thread.

g

 

[garrettpf 10+ year member]

You want to keep your grounds as short as possible. It will say that in every car audio installation instructions. You also want the ground the same size or larger then the pos, never smaller. However, if you are rich or cannot find a suitable ground location, then you run to front battery, lets say if your car was made out of cardboard //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif. Other then that, the metal on your car is one big honkin ground. Make all your grounds as short as possible, use same or larger then pos cable and ESPECIALLY make sure that your ground location is solid and clear of all paint, bare metal only!!!

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

okk well i have read several threads on here that if u run to the front battery its a better ground and causes less voltage drop and not as much resistance so that isnt true. and also yea i have 1/0 knu for power and kicker 1/0 for ground from the front batterys to the back

will making another ground in the back from the chasis to the back battery help in voltage drops or no

 

[garrettpf 10+ year member]

okk well i have read several threads on here that if u run to the front battery its a better ground and causes less voltage drop and not as much resistance so that isnt true. and also yea i have 1/0 knu for power and kicker 1/0 for ground from the front batterys to the back
will making another ground in the back from the chasis to the back battery help in voltage drops or no

The thread may be right. I never really checked voltage drop either way and have always ground to bare metal, either being directly to a frame rail or as in my car to the solid seatbelt mount.

I guess there could be a small possibilty of voltage drop since running bat to bat will give you a clean run but then again, your car is one big ground.

My sig was from a thread where we got into a war on pretty much the same thing. I was trying to explain how expensive cables can produce better sound. But if there is a thread about voltage drop with direct link //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif as for resistance, electricty will always follow the short and most simple bath. And a ground from bat to bat my be the cleanest but may not be the quickest path. If you want total security, run it both ways. I always run a ground from my HU to the chassis, one to the bat and another to amps. This eliminates any chance of noise.

Sh!t, there I go with 20 lines of bull[bleep] //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[smiley2186 10+ year member]

can i wire a redtop optima to my yellow top as back up batt.

 

[chunky cumz 10+ year member]

can i wire a redtop optima to my yellow top as back up batt.

HONESTLY! i think you have some wiring issues. EVERYoNE STOP AND WAIT one sec....

You have a 90 amp alternator a yellow top and only 800w rms?

I am running 1600w rms on a 90amp alternator. i think your wiring is fukd, battery is fukd, or your alt has bit the dust. I would take your car to an auto shop so they can test the alt and if it is fine then go back and check batt and wiring.

 

[smiley2186 10+ year member]

i should be pushing more then 800rms. i have 800rm in 1 amp to 1 eclipse, but all together i have 3 amp 2 800rms and 1 v12 to run the mid. and 2 eclipse sw9122 just need to run an extra battery because eclipse sw9122 ti want lots of power. so hopefully when i get another battery everything will be good

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

Previously you stated that when you went to a high volume the amp would shut itself off. We need to verify this to determine if the shop was right with the statement that it was 'overheating'. When does your amp shut off when you go to a high volume? Almost immediately or after a few minutes? Also, have you ever touched the amp to see how hot it is when it does shut off?

If the amp shuts off after at least several minutes of running at high volume and the amp will burn you if you touch it for more than a second, then yes, it's overheating. Otherwise, it's shutting off due to voltage drop.

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

your car is one big ground.

Here we go again //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

The chassis is not a ground. It is a path for the negative since the alternator's negative and battery's negative both connect to the chassis. This is for ease of installation for car equipment and cost reduction. The manufacturers don't have to run positive and negative wires for every device - just a positive.

A chassis will always have more resistance than a pure oxygen free run of stranded copper wire. It's just that in most car stereo situations the chassis will suffice. Each chassis is different on how much current it can handle. My '07 Corolla's chassis can't handle 1900RMS, without ill effects, and I had to run a dedicated 1/0 negative.

 

[smiley2186 10+ year member]

it shuts off when i had it hook up to my alpine v12, 2 channel bridge. i have not tried using the new orion amp i got yet. i was just seeing would i need an extra battery to run

2 orion d2400 and 2 eclipse ti sw9122. with my yellow top battery, if so i wont have to buy another battery.

 

[king ranch 5,000+ posts]

wats your alt rated at, and how much rms are u gonna be running for subs/comps

 

[smiley2186 10+ year member]

alternator is 90amp, each sub will be gettin atleast 800rmsx1 into 2 ohm so about 1600 rms for both not including my amp that runing my mid. all alpine type r speaker from back and tweeters

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

it shuts off when i had it hook up to my alpine v12, 2 channel bridge. i have not tried using the new orion amp i got yet. i was just seeing would i need an extra battery to run 2 orion d2400 and 2 eclipse ti sw9122. with my yellow top battery, if so i wont have to buy another battery.

So did it shut off almost immediately or did it run for a few minutes? What ohm were the subs running at?