Do component speakers run parallel?

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Nice ill research it. I just noticed your picture, do you have a gtp? I have a 99 grand prix gt that's topswapped with, headers, e85, fsic intercooler, rockers, and a bunch of other shenanigans.
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yeah click my name and gallery pic should be in there of it, 04 gtp, stock except spoiler and cai

 

[Suitercrew]

yeah click my name and gallery pic should be in there of it, 04 gtp, stock except spoiler and cai

Awesome man, its nice to see another grand prix guy on here. Thanks for the advice on the amp. Do you think that much power would be ok for speakers that are only rated for about 100 watts rms per channel?
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[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Awesome man, its nice to see another grand prix guy on here. Thanks for the advice on the amp. Do you think that much power would be ok for speakers that are only rated for about 100 watts rms per channel?
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all i can say is lots of peeps do it, make sure u set hp over (on hu if u have one) at least 120hz and if hu has eq set lower freqs to - 2 or so and set gain low should be fine.. ct sounds has a sale going on i think 60.4 check out their site (they emailed me about sale today) 1 guy here with huge system has all ct amps

 

[Suitercrew]

Are you talking about setting the mids at 120hz? I had them set at 65hz if I remember correctly but had zero Midbass so I put them at 50hz and if my math is right they should be running 75 watts per side. Although I really wish they were louder. Maybe its just the fact that they are 5.25" but I have my 500 watt rms sub with its gain turned almost all the way down, zero bass boost set and the deck settings in the - for sub settings and the subwoofer still overpowers the fronts and rears on some songs.

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[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Are you talking about setting the mids at 120hz? I had them set at 65hz if I remember correctly but had zero Midbass so I put them at 50hz and if my math is right they should be running 75 watts per side. Although I really wish they were louder. Maybe its just the fact that they are 5.25" but I have my 500 watt rms sub with its gain turned almost all the way down, zero bass boost set and the deck settings in the - for sub settings and the subwoofer still overpowers the fronts and rears on some songs.
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i'm saying if u run 125-190rms per speaker u have to raise hp xover.. look at ruby serve website (or jut cdt speakers in general) they list like 140rms (with hp xover at 140hz) or whatever.. i just have soundqubed coax and i set mine at 150 they don't do mid bass and i listen to tons of rebassed tracks if u listen to rock 80hz is fine..

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Stop telling everyone to set their hpf to 120.... That's a terrible idea.

Plus the ppi 900.4 is rated 145x4 @ 4 ohms and 14.4 volts but dynoed 150 watts rms at 4 ohms per channel at 14.0 volts. Not 190.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

lots of peeps run the 900.4 here, jeff has 4 of the 2 channels i think and 1 guy is gonna run 4 p1k's like mine.. not best amp on earth by far but pretty clean at least at 4 ohm and (190x4 at 4ohm is alot for most peeps) and dependable.. my 1k mono tested at 1162rms for $169..

go home gramps you are way too drunk for this. Please just stop. You are spitting out horrible misinformation left and right this thread.

Are you talking about setting the mids at 120hz? I had them set at 65hz if I remember correctly but had zero Midbass so I put them at 50hz and if my math is right they should be running 75 watts per side. Although I really wish they were louder. Maybe its just the fact that they are 5.25" but I have my 500 watt rms sub with its gain turned almost all the way down, zero bass boost set and the deck settings in the - for sub settings and the subwoofer still overpowers the fronts and rears on some songs.
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ignore everything boomingranpa just said and you should be golden for your install.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Ok well I have the nvx v series components that have a crossover. The 4 channel amp I bought was broken so I only have my old 2 channel amp. So I have my front component sets running off 1 channel and my rears running off the other channel. Which would be fine the only problem I currently have is one of the tweeters died and so I bought some alpine type s tweeters that have a crossover inline and I'm trying to figure out if I should just cutoff the alpine crossover and use the nvx crossover or if its ok to plug the alpine tweeter into the input section of the nvx crossover box or if that will basically make it a parralel connection. All speakers are 4ohm. I will be getting a new 4 or maybe 5 channel amp in a few days whenever amazon processes my refund from the busted amp.
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Sounds like reading this your not sure if you should use the comp spkrs x-over or not. Use it. It's really easy to install/hook up. I just installed some new comps in my Tahoe so I can help ya if you'd like. Tweeter input on x-over obviously where the tweeter spkr wire goes to. Same with mid on the x-over. The input on the x-over goes to from amp......from speaker wire.

 

[Suitercrew]

Sounds like reading this your not sure if you should use the comp spkrs x-over or not. Use it. It's really easy to install/hook up. I just installed some new comps in my Tahoe so I can help ya if you'd like. Tweeter input on x-over obviously where the tweeter spkr wire goes to. Same with mid on the x-over. The input on the x-over goes to from amp......from speaker wire.

Ya I got that, but I'm trying to use different tweeters then what came originally with the set and the new tweeters have a crossover in the wiring of them so I wasn't sure if I should use the crossover that came with the new tweeters or the crossover that came with the component set.
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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Ya I got that, but I'm trying to use different tweeters then what came originally with the set and the new tweeters have a crossover in the wiring of them so I wasn't sure if I should use the crossover that came with the new tweeters or the crossover that came with the component set.
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If you want to know whats the best way to use mismatched equipment, its to go fully active crossover network which requires a head unit thats able to do 3 way active network.

This means you hook up the tweeter and midrange straight up to the amp on their own channels. This will also require and active capable head unit, a cheap one would be pioneer mvh 580bs. You control the crossover points through the head unit and ditch the crossovers that come with the set. Since everything will sound different in every car because of vehicle acoustics, this will get you the best sound quality and loudness out of what you have. Not to mention all the other amazing things a proper head unit can do ex.. 13 band eq, time alignment speaker level controls etc..

You will also get more true power to the mid/tweet since you dont have to go to a board full of resistors and other things that eat up power. Not to mention its a specific crossover point that you cant change so its not gonna work best or anywhere near optimally.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Ya I got that, but I'm trying to use different tweeters then what came originally with the set and the new tweeters have a crossover in the wiring of them so I wasn't sure if I should use the crossover that came with the new tweeters or the crossover that came with the component set.
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Ah ok. I don't think there would be a difference. However...an idea is try one roll around for awhile with it after some tuning and try the other one, do the same. Then pic which sounds better to ya.

 

[Suitercrew]

If you want to know whats the best way to use mismatched equipment, its to go fully active crossover network which requires a head unit thats able to do 3 way active network.
This means you hook up the tweeter and midrange straight up to the amp on their own channels. This will also require and active capable head unit, a cheap one would be pioneer mvh 580bs. You control the crossover points through the head unit and ditch the crossovers that come with the set. Since everything will sound different in every car because of vehicle acoustics, this will get you the best sound quality and loudness out of what you have. Not to mention all the other amazing things a proper head unit can do ex.. 13 band eq, time alignment speaker level controls etc..

You will also get more true power to the mid/tweet since you dont have to go to a board full of resistors and other things that eat up power. Not to mention its a specific crossover point that you cant change so its not gonna work best or anywhere near optimally.

I have a KDC-BT568U. It does have time alignment and I know you can set cross over points but I'm not sure it does the 3 way thing. Is the benefit of being able to do the 3 way active setup just being able to really fine tune everything?
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[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-MpfAP2h1CZu/p_113BT568U/Kenwood-KDC-BT568U.html

This is your HU a good one if I do say so myself...and has the xtras Jeff was talking about.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I have a KDC-BT568U. It does have time alignment and I know you can set cross over points but I'm not sure it does the 3 way thing. Is the benefit of being able to do the 3 way active setup just being able to really fine tune everything?
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Most Kenwood head units are not active capable at all and yours is definitely not.. Its not fine tuning its the initial BULK tuning. horrible crossover points = horrible speaker setup plain and simple. EQ wont be able to fix bad crossover points.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-MpfAP2h1CZu/p_113BT568U/Kenwood-KDC-BT568U.html
This is your HU a good one if I do say so myself...and has the xtras Jeff was talking about.

no it doesnt. It does not have a mid LOW pass filter. Without that you'll have both tweeters and the midrange playing treble frequencies which is horrible and nasty. Soo many people on here and all the facebook groups keep thinking that kenwoods can go active because of that tweeter high pass... Its NEVER active unless you have a mid low pass as well. IDK why kenwood fked that one up soo hard. Even JVC has full 3 way active networks now but kenwood does not.

I suppose he can use the crossover the the mid and do the tweeter active but its still not the same.

 

[Suitercrew]

Most Kenwood head units are not active capable at all and yours is definitely not.. Its not fine tuning its the initial BULK tuning. horrible crossover points = horrible speaker setup plain and simple. EQ wont be able to fix bad crossover points.


no it doesnt. It does not have a mid LOW pass filter. Without that you'll have both tweeters and the midrange playing treble frequencies which is horrible and nasty. Soo many people on here and all the facebook groups keep thinking that kenwoods can go active because of that tweeter high pass... Its NEVER active unless you have a mid low pass as well. IDK why kenwood fked that one up soo hard. Even JVC has full 3 way active networks now but kenwood does not.

I suppose he can use the crossover the the mid and do the tweeter active but its still not the same.

Eh having to fully tune a setup is probably a little to advanced for me anyway, I'm still pretty begginer level as far as car audio goes. I guess it does have the tweeter filter but I haven't used it yet because I don't understand how the HU can tell between a tweeter and a normal speaker. Its all pretty confusing.
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