DIY Ground kit theory/question

[MetalMaxima 10+ year member]

Myth or not, I am going to be making a grounding kit in addition to the Big 3 upgrade. So I had a question about a grounding kit. The whole purpose of it is to increase the total electron path ala bigger circut, correct? So then I have two questions:

(1) Would longer runs facilitate my means better than shorter runs?

(2) In the 'circut', does it serve any means to have a dead-end attached to the circut? (ie - one leg of the path ends @ the chassis)

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[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

Not quite sure what you mean by a "grounding kit"...

Having a 2 or 1/0awg lead from the negative terminal on the battery to chassis is going to be all the ground you need 99% of the time. Once you've got that, there's little else you can do to improve the electron path.

 

[Nikuk 5,000+ posts]

Every bit of metal in or abouts Your vehicle (that is not directly connected to the starter, alternator, fuse box, or pos batt post) is "grounded".

Once Your neg. batt cable is attached to the frame / unibody & Your equipment is attached to the frame / unibody... The pathway is complete.

Longer wire will lead to more resistance for a given current.

-Nick

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

About the only time I could see the need for a seperate ground run would be if you're getting inducted noise in the power cables - in which case you'd run seperate power/gnd leads and put ferrite cores on them.

Other than that very specialized case, a solid chassis ground is all you need, like Nick said.

 

[MetalMaxima 10+ year member]

REALLY. Wow, thanks guys...you just saved me a ton of time/money. Now all I have to focus on is the big 3. MUCH THANKS. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[MetalMaxima 10+ year member]

Not quite sure what you mean by a "grounding kit"...
Having a 2 or 1/0awg lead from the negative terminal on the battery to chassis is going to be all the ground you need 99% of the time. Once you've got that, there's little else you can do to improve the electron path.

Alright, so just to set the record straight, I would be better off simply attaching a lead from the negative terminal to the chassis ONLY. I should NOT run the grounding kit as seen here:

STILLEN GROUNDING KIT

Here is a pic with the description:

You are losing horsepower and torque without STILLEN’s new Grounding Kits. Today’s engine management systems utilize hundreds of sensors and in some cases over 12 onboard computers that constantly monitor all parameters of the engine and powertrain. Installing STILLEN’s Grounding Kit ensures that sensors and computers are not affected by power surges that can drain performance. These kits were specifically engineered for 350Z and G35 Sport Coupes. This ensures that all wire diameters are optimal for amperage and current travel distance. These kits feature 8-gauge copper wire, gold plated connectors along with 4-gauge & 8-gauge ring connectors. Available in silver or red. These kits are now available for:

 

[Logikalliquid 10+ year member]

I can't believe Stillen has started selling grounding kits. They won't give you any increase in power unless you're running a high performance igintion. I doubt it even them you'll notice any power. If want a grounding kit, I really suggest doing it yourself. The 4ga and ring terminals aren't that expensive and how hard is it to make a crimp look professional? The $80-$100 price-tags aren't justified for the 2hp you'll get if your engine is completely isolated from the frame.

 

[MetalMaxima 10+ year member]

Right, I would DIY, I was just using that as an example.

But the question is, do I run just the batt neg to the chassis OR do I do the chassis AND the grounding kit.

 

[Logikalliquid 10+ year member]

All the ebay grounding kits run all the wires directly to the batt neg, but i believe the HKS Circle Earth kits ground to both the frame and the batt neg.

 

[MetalMaxima 10+ year member]

All the ebay grounding kits run all the wires directly to the batt neg, but i believe the HKS Circle Earth kits ground to both the frame and the batt neg.

AHHHHH!!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

No one has answered my latest question!!!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

 

[jrz126 10+ year member]

grounding kit? wtf? its an ebay scam.

Just upgrade the 'big 3' and ground your amp in the back/trunk.

you'll be fine

 

[jsloan10 10+ year member]

Big wire goes from battery - terminal to fender(this is how the amps ground gets back to the battery).

Big wire goes from engine block to firewall/fender (this is your alternators ground and ignition system).

Done, its that simple.

Leave the original stuff in place, just suppliment it, this way you can take it out and sell the car with no signs of butchering.

 

[forbidden 10+ year member]

"Big wire goes from battery - terminal to fender(this is how the amps ground gets back to the battery)." Then the current must travel through glued together unibody panels, spot welds and and whatever blend of metals they use in building unibody vehicles these days, then it travels to "the bolt that is attached to the metal of the vehicle that is scraped clean of paint" and finally to the amp.

So again guys, considering that the ground wire is the most important thing there is, why has no one informed this person first to measure his ground return resistance first, then do the BIG 3, then if the resistance on the return through the glued together unibody panels and spot welds is still above .5 ohm, then ground direct to the battery, hence the BIG 4 (the older and wiser brother). 99% of installers do not check this important reading as 99% of them were taught the same way that most people think, that a ground wire is the shortest chunk of wire to the bolt scraped clean of paint.

The Stillen grounding kit (overpriced) aids in addressing these very things for the performance side of things, a good installer will measure the return resistance and then if needed, ground to the battery.

 

[jsloan10 10+ year member]

I guess the millions of us that decided to save our money and just ground to the chassis are stupid.

Some cars (Audi, Porsche) have galvanized bodies, and in these cars,

you must find one of the manufacturers' grounding points or else some

noise can result.

BTW- I have some magic ground cable fluid that will increase the effectivness of all your vehicles grounds by 400%. It only costs $100 for a 6 ounce bottle, I make it myself and it looks kinda like a thick milk.

 

[THUNDERBIRD 10+ year member]

wow thats a bunch of BULL SHITZ