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DIY Ground kit theory/question
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<blockquote data-quote="forbidden" data-source="post: 945030" data-attributes="member: 552189"><p>"Big wire goes from battery - terminal to fender(this is how the amps ground gets back to the battery)." Then the current must travel through glued together unibody panels, spot welds and and whatever blend of metals they use in building unibody vehicles these days, then it travels to "the bolt that is attached to the metal of the vehicle that is scraped clean of paint" and finally to the amp.</p><p></p><p>So again guys, considering that the ground wire is the most important thing there is, why has no one informed this person first to measure his ground return resistance first, then do the BIG 3, then if the resistance on the return through the glued together unibody panels and spot welds is still above .5 ohm, then ground direct to the battery, hence the BIG 4 (the older and wiser brother). 99% of installers do not check this important reading as 99% of them were taught the same way that most people think, that a ground wire is the shortest chunk of wire to the bolt scraped clean of paint.</p><p></p><p>The Stillen grounding kit (overpriced) aids in addressing these very things for the performance side of things, a good installer will measure the return resistance and then if needed, ground to the battery.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="forbidden, post: 945030, member: 552189"] "Big wire goes from battery - terminal to fender(this is how the amps ground gets back to the battery)." Then the current must travel through glued together unibody panels, spot welds and and whatever blend of metals they use in building unibody vehicles these days, then it travels to "the bolt that is attached to the metal of the vehicle that is scraped clean of paint" and finally to the amp. So again guys, considering that the ground wire is the most important thing there is, why has no one informed this person first to measure his ground return resistance first, then do the BIG 3, then if the resistance on the return through the glued together unibody panels and spot welds is still above .5 ohm, then ground direct to the battery, hence the BIG 4 (the older and wiser brother). 99% of installers do not check this important reading as 99% of them were taught the same way that most people think, that a ground wire is the shortest chunk of wire to the bolt scraped clean of paint. The Stillen grounding kit (overpriced) aids in addressing these very things for the performance side of things, a good installer will measure the return resistance and then if needed, ground to the battery. [/QUOTE]
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