diregarding the cost, 12w7...

[Wonderbread 5,000+ posts]

what a joke...

to wire in a cap is so fast...

easy stuff

half an hour... tops.. you could even do it

 

[nswartley 5,000+ posts]

if your alt is big enough, then you don't need a cap. don't get it. waste of money, basically.

 

[soundquality]

what is the difference - the kit is made for a thousand watts and thats what my amp is

The bottom line with wires for voltage only is the guage. Period!

Ohms law says that voltage equals current times resistance. When current meets resistance there is a voltage drop. The more current, the higher the drop in voltage. So the voltage drop will be determined by guage and length. The lower the guage the more voltage gets to your amplifier. As you know your amplifier puts out more power (measured in Watts) with more voltage applied. Now there is a point of of guage (thickness of wire) that isn't going o make a difference for a given current drawn. You are there, but....future upgrades could like additional amps might present a problem because of your minimal meeting the current requirements by way of 4 guage wiring. When in doubt, BIGGER is better when it comes to voltage wires. For now, you are just fine!

 

[tbcar 10+ year member]

here is some info you might not know.

on an amp 2 things matter other than rms power

THD= its % of distortion. zapco amps have next to no distortion where as some roadgear might be 2%...

Distortion KILLS subs. Any Sub. If you get a 1500 rms amp with .85% dist and only need 800 watts you turn down the gain. and boom less distortion and less power. Problem with most people is they get an amp that will just barely push what they need. in the world of high end audio less is not more. it just ends up costing you more.

Dampening Factor. you want the amp to have a damp factor or > 200. (zapco comp series has 900+ factor. What is this? Why is this important

In laymens terms it is the ability of the amp to control how the sub responds to multiple bass hits. in techo it sounds like that would be important

 

[nswartley 5,000+ posts]

here is some info you might not know.
on an amp 2 things matter other than rms power

THD= its % of distortion. zapco amps have next to no distortion where as some roadgear might be 2%...

Distortion KILLS subs. Any Sub. If you get a 1500 rms amp with .85% dist and only need 800 watts you turn down the gain. and boom less distortion and less power. Problem with most people is they get an amp that will just barely push what they need. in the world of high end audio less is not more. it just ends up costing you more.

Dampening Factor. you want the amp to have a damp factor or > 200. (zapco comp series has 900+ factor. What is this? Why is this important

In laymens terms it is the ability of the amp to control how the sub responds to multiple bass hits. in techo it sounds like that would be important

simply put...you are wrong. i have to go right now, but i'll elaborate later.

-nate //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/nono.gif.eca61d170185779e0921b0faa9704973.gif

 

[jesse6666 10+ year member]

All right, Il send some pics of the beautiful install. I ended up getting a good deal on a 1 farad cap from Monster, so I installed it just in case. How much power does 1 Farad hold (enough?) I heard it can drain all of its power in one burst if needed (how much power is taken from the cap when using a 1000 watt amp)? Also, can someone explain input and gain etc. I have a bass boost switch and a Head Unit that allows me to set the bass (-9 to 9) What is the difference and how do I set it properly.

By the way, TBCAR, the Rockford THD at Rated RMS Power is .05 %.

 

[somekook 10+ year member]

no.

tennnnn

 

[jesse6666 10+ year member]

no.

tennnnn

Im sorry, I have no idea what you're responding to. I've aqsked three questions and you wrote, "no, tennn" If you're talking about the amp THD, what do you base it on(since I know you prob just don't like them)?

 

[Z28sspeedracer]

P.S.- Pyramid is with out a doubt the WACKEST company on the planet! LoL

well good luck bud

Actually, I think the very worst of all amps has to be the legacy amps. But they both **** though.

If you are looking for one of the best amplifiers in the planet, you should consider the Precision Power Amplifiers. You can find them very cheap on ebay. A very good amplifier by Precision power is the PC2350 which is 750WRMS X 2 @2 ohm 1400WRMS bridged X1 @4ohm or 2200WRMS bridged X1 @2ohm are the longest lasting and cleanest sounding amps and are around 115DB. Brand new these amps are about $2,000 but I've seen them on ebay used for around $300, or new for about $699 sometimes cheaper. If I was looking for the best sound system, Precision Power are the amps to get.

The PC series might be hard to find though because Precision Power doesn't make them any more, but they now make PCX series. I've heard that the older PC series sounded better when the company use to make those in USA, now they relocated to Korea, though the PCX still sounds good, the PC series sound is better.

 

[Wonderbread 5,000+ posts]

the farad cap will be enough to supply for 1000 watts, the general rule is 1000 watts/farad.

it will usually drain all it's power at once.

think of a cap as a resevior. it holds this power, and can release it very quickly if it is required. when teh amp is not drawing power, the electrical system now needs to charge this cap up again to be ready for the next huge draw. if the draws are more frequent than the electrical system can charge the cap, it is now a new load for the already struggling electrical system to handle.

input sensitivity is the gain. did the shop not set it for you? any decent shop will have set it for you. basically, teh higher your output voltage, the lower you need your gain set to produce rated power.

I would usually leave bass boost at 0, and then mess with the bass on the HU slowly and carefully. you have to remember as well that the bass control at the HU will also affect the levels of bass coming from the speakers, unless you are talking about a sub volume control.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

Actually, I think the very worst of all amps has to be the legacy amps. But they both **** though.
If you are looking for one of the best amplifiers in the planet, you should consider the Precision Power Amplifiers. You can find them very cheap on ebay. A very good amplifier by Precision power is the PC2350 which is 750WRMS X 2 @2 ohm 1400WRMS bridged X1 @4ohm or 2200WRMS bridged X1 @2ohm are the longest lasting and cleanest sounding amps and are around 115DB. Brand new these amps are about $2,000 but I've seen them on ebay used for around $300, or new for about $699 sometimes cheaper. If I was looking for the best sound system, Precision Power are the amps to get.

The PC series might be hard to find though because Precision Power doesn't make them any more, but they now make PCX series. I've heard that the older PC series sounded better when the company use to make those in USA, now they relocated to Korea, though the PCX still sounds good, the PC series sound is better.

lagacy pyramid lanzar pyle are all somewhat the same company i believe.

 

[Wonderbread 5,000+ posts]

Pyramid, Lanzar, American Legcay, and Pyle all share the same Brooklyn mailing adress.

 

[jesse6666 10+ year member]

the farad cap will be enough to supply for 1000 watts, the general rule is 1000 watts/farad.it will usually drain all it's power at once.

think of a cap as a resevior. it holds this power, and can release it very quickly if it is required. when teh amp is not drawing power, the electrical system now needs to charge this cap up again to be ready for the next huge draw. if the draws are more frequent than the electrical system can charge the cap, it is now a new load for the already struggling electrical system to handle.

input sensitivity is the gain. did the shop not set it for you? any decent shop will have set it for you. basically, teh higher your output voltage, the lower you need your gain set to produce rated power.

I would usually leave bass boost at 0, and then mess with the bass on the HU slowly and carefully. you have to remember as well that the bass control at the HU will also affect the levels of bass coming from the speakers, unless you are talking about a sub volume control.

so every time I turn up the bass, the entire cap wil drain? how much can I actually get out of it before it losses everything and needs to recharge? (also, how long does it take to recharge?)

they made all the settings on the amp, but Im saying that I have a bass boost control and then i have both a bass output and a sub bass output on my HU. So Im asking is there any difference between raising the sub bass output or increasing bass boost?

 

[Wonderbread 5,000+ posts]

it is an active component in the electrical ssystem. it is always recharging and discharging.

you won't have to take it out and charge it or anything like that. when it discharges to give the amp the power its asking for, it will start to recharge immediately.

ah, to change the subwoofer volume, all you should have to do is change the subbass output. the bass output will affect the woofer and the speakers, while the subbass output is dedicated to teh subwoofer preouts.

 

[Z28sspeedracer]

When I was looking into adding a capacitor to my system, I started thinking that it might be better to just add a second car battery. Do you guys think it's better to add a second battery instead of the capacitor, or the capacitor? It just seems to me that a capacitor is pretty much acting like a battery, but it only stores power back and forth where a battery has the power already unlike a capacitor and a battery just seems like a better choice since it won't cause the problems that a capacitor would cause such as releasing more than it is rechargining, or having to use multiple capacitors to achieve the wattage support from a battery.