Diamond Audio Subs?

EastCoastDubz
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I own a 2003 Vw Gti. 1.8t with a pioneer AVH-P7500DVD in it. I plan on putting a Diamond Audio D51200.1 amp in my car to go along with 2 Diamond Audio D612D2. Now i have a few questions. Would a 3 Farad Capactior be fine with this setup as far as power consumption goes? What would be the best box for these subs? Should I get 2 ohm subs or 4 ohm subs? I really love loud pounding bass so. Also where would be the cheapest place to find dynamat? Thanks for your help. By the way i'm new here.

 
Would a 3 Farad Capactior be fine with this setup as far as power consumption goes?
I'd be a waste of money to buy one.

What would be the best box for these subs?
Specs really lend themselves to be more suited for sealed enclosures.

Should I get 2 ohm subs or 4 ohm subs?
Get the D4 (dual 4ohm) coils for that amp. Wire parallel-parallel for a final 1ohm load.

I really love loud pounding bass so. Also where would be the cheapest place to find dynamat?
http://www.raamaudio.com

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

If you want cheap dynamat, look on ebay. However, there are products that are comparable for better prices, such as Raammat (which is what that link's to), Fat Mat, B-quiet, Second Skin, etc.

 
I own a 2003 Vw Gti. 1.8t with a pioneer AVH-P7500DVD in it. I plan on putting a Diamond Audio D51200.1 amp in my car to go along with 2 Diamond Audio D612D2. Now i have a few questions. Would a 3 Farad Capactior be fine with this setup as far as power consumption goes? What would be the best box for these subs? Should I get 2 ohm subs or 4 ohm subs? I really love loud pounding bass so. Also where would be the cheapest place to find dynamat? Thanks for your help. By the way i'm new here.
If I'm assuming right, your D51200.1 can go down to a 1ohm load. DVC4ohm would be fine if you wanted to wire it down to a 1ohm-mono load.

3-farad cap is a waste of money like squeak9798 said. If you wanted a cap, spend your money on a batcap. The smallest one is equivilant to 35 1-farad caps, and probably doesn't cost much more than a pair of 1-farad caps. http://www.batcap.net

For Dynamat, make sure you get the extreme. The original falls off //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif Not sure where you could get it cheap at, but Raamat, second skin, fatmat and cascade are all good products. You could even go a bit cheaper and get Peel and Seal from your local hardware store, but there have been reports that it will melt in VERY hot weather. I live in Houston, so I don't know if it'll work for me. I run Raamat and fatmat personally.

k_gti_02.jpg


That enclosure is for sale. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif The subwoofer pictured is a Digital Design DD9915. He hit 151db on the old TL mic. That doesn't mean squat to me, but it might to you //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Came out of a VW GTI also. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
what would u fell more in terms of bass. 4 ohm subs wired to 1 ohm or just 2 ohm subs.
that has nothing to do with it. The wiring configuration will tell you which amp you need to look for, for instance, you can't feed an amp a 1ohm load if its not 1ohm stable.

 
As lotas said; the impedance doesn't dictate output, it only determines how much power you'll receive from the amplifier.

For those subs on that amp, you would want the D4 version and wire them in parallel-parallel for a final 1ohm load.

 
go with the vented enclosure on the diamond audio site, thats what i have they yeild great spl and the specs are from diamond so you know its right //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Owning a 02' GTI with one diamond M6 (older version of D6 and running not nearly as much power (and having a 1 farad cap as well...what can I say the blinky blue leds and display look cool at night) I can already tell you

a) with no electrical upgrades your headlights will dim to hell

b) a cap wont help much at all

c) an upgraded battery will do wonders but may not eliminate it completely especially at your power level. had a optima red top which barely helped now yellow top which nearly eliminates it except when cranking real hard

d) without upgrading the alternator ground you may still get headlight dimming, just upgrading the battery and battery ground help alot but isn't neccessarily enough. Now I am running my amp bridged into 2ohms (a 1ohm load to the amp) with a class A/B amp = much higher current draw than typical especially for equavalent D class power so your car may not suffer quite the same, then again my amp is only rated at 75x4/250x2 and powers my entire system with 75x2 up front and 250X1 (probably more) rear channels to the sub.

PS: they sound great sealed and two will be plenty loud

pic for the hell of it

Cap2.jpg


 
I have an M6 mkII 12" in a vented box.

While I agree with squeak that the specs would lead someone to believe that a DAT sub wants a sealed box over a ported one I can tell you from experience that they can sound really good in a vented enclosure as well.

I've only got one and feed it 600 watts. Even in a trunk car it's still pretty dog-gone loud for a sub not particularly meant for SPL. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif

I think you'll like 'em fine //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
D6's are excellent subs- i doubt you wouldnt admire the output of those babies sealed off that power- enough to cause sinus drip in a 4 door Maxima that is hardly an SPL favorable car.... Heard quite a few of those setups, nice choice.

 
c) an upgraded battery will do wonders but may not eliminate it completely especially at your power level. had a optima red top which barely helped now yellow top which nearly eliminates it except when cranking real hardd) without upgrading the alternator ground you may still get headlight dimming, just upgrading the battery and battery ground help alot but isn't neccessarily enough.
Seem some guys that had pretty good luck with Kinetik batteries. More CCA, and the price is very competitive.

dodgebatteries2.JPG


Kinetik Audio.com

 
I LOVE my D6. Its in a 1.1 sealed enclosure, pretty loud for that box, but im in the process of making a 2cf ported box tuned to 35hz in a week //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Not to threajack but is there any real difference between the D6 and the M6 excepting nomenclature?
[/threadjack]
yes the demensions and parameters are different but they are both designed to work with the same type of enclosures, power and sizes in mind. now the MKII M6 is virtually the same as the D6 (so its been said) and looks like it as well. The original M6 looks a bit different as shown below (actually they look pretty close too other than the different rubber rim gasket and inverted/exverted dust cap):

M6

DiamondM6-10.jpg


vs

D6

D6-610_L.jpg


 
Seem some guys that had pretty good luck with Kinetik batteries. More CCA, and the price is very competitive.
Believe me I wanted a Kinetik battery BAD but I wasn't able to source them anywhere but their website and while the prices may be competitive for what you get (which is key because you cant get most batteries with their specs) they were still expensive and I needed a battery yesterday when I got the yellow top locally and was pressed for time during the group buy thread I saw around.

 
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EastCoastDubz

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