Diamond Audio D1000.1

[marleyskater420 5,000+ posts]

First off, I don't completely understand the technical aspects behind it, but basically the sound and signal is not as stable as 4 or 8ohms. My understanding is that as we play music through our amps,it does not always send a "1ohm"(if that is what your speakers are wired to) load to the amp. This causes the signal to not be even and essentially for audiophiles, it causes breakup and inconsistencies.

Now I could be wrong, so please do not take what I say as gospel.. I ask all my electronics questions to my buddy that works at SLAC, so I am by no means an expert on this subject. But basically it is an audiophile thing..

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

def mmats would be your best choice for an efficient amp that produces 1500rms but they are a bit more expensive but prob the most efficient amp designs out there. On a 140 amp alternator, if you do the big 3, 1500rms will be done fine with most amps.

Cadence Acoustics D1800M 1800W RMS Class D Mono Block Amplifier | eBay

amazing amp shows distortion etc on the amp, 1800rms on 4 gauge

whats your budget ????

 

[BoomBoxStereo 10+ year member]

def mmats would be your best choice for an efficient amp that produces 1500rms but they are a bit more expensive but prob the most efficient amp designs out there. On a 140 amp alternator, if you do the big 3, 1500rms will be done fine with most amps.
Cadence Acoustics D1800M 1800W RMS Class D Mono Block Amplifier | eBay

amazing amp shows distortion etc on the amp, 1800rms on 4 gauge

whats your budget ????

not exactly sure of a budget yet, just trying to get ideas.. as well as trying to figure out if my stock electrical can handle more power

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

not exactly sure of a budget yet, just trying to get ideas.. as well as trying to figure out if my stock electrical can handle more power

i wouldnt go higher than that cadence without electrical, that would be my max. I would do big 3 upgrade for anything 1200rms or up though. 140 amps is a nice alt.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0NS07A5944

the smarttech series are their top line but the ebay store is clearing them out for half the price of what the msrp is on them

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

MMATS would get my vote for what you are trying to do, but I would still suggest a wire and big 3 upgrade as a minimum.

 

[BoomBoxStereo 10+ year member]

i wouldnt go higher than that cadence without electrical, that would be my max. I would do big 3 upgrade for anything 1200rms or up though. 140 amps is a nice alt.
Newegg.com - Cadence Acoustics ZRS Smart Tech Series D1800M, Class D Mono Block 3600 Watt Peak Power Car Amplifier

the smarttech series are their top line but the ebay store is clearing them out for half the price of what the msrp is on them

MMATS would get my vote for what you are trying to do, but I would still suggest a wire and big 3 upgrade as a minimum.

iif i do end up doing the big 3, i'd like to keep my 4 gauge

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

iif i do end up doing the big 3, i'd like to keep my 4 gauge

no keep the 4 gauge, just do the big 3 to help your alternator. It does wonders on your electrical because even though you are running 4 gauge back, your stock wiring is 8 gauge if your lucky and is acting as a bottleneck.

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

I would still upgrade your 4 gauge as well. If you want to upgrade your power you simply have to upgrade your electrical.

That is no different then the guy running a 1k amp on 8 gauge. Heck, I have seen far worse then that to be honest.

 

[BoomBoxStereo 10+ year member]

I would still upgrade your 4 gauge as well. If you want to upgrade your power you simply have to upgrade your electrical.
That is no different then the guy running a 1k amp on 8 gauge. Heck, I have seen far worse then that to be honest.

when i have my subs turned up, i don't see any headlight dimming, and if it is dimming it's not visible to the naked eye... does that make a difference? i feel like my Jeep has a pretty strong electrical

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

The electrical in your truck is designed to run your truck. Not anything extra apart from perhaps charging cell phones and such.

 

[GVP 10+ year member]

Why not get power 1200@4?