Desperately Need Help with the Speaker Noise

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rocky99

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I installed an aftermarket system in a 2006 Honda Accord, everything works except for this Buzzing Noise. I tried every remedy in the book but couldn't get rid of this noise.
The noise only comes when the key is in the ignition position (with or without engine running doesn't matter). So, if the key has three positions: A, B and C is starting the car after which it returns to B, whatever it's called. The noise only appears in this B position or when the engine is On. The noise goes away when the key is in A position and the music sounds PERFECT and CLEAN! As soon as I put it in position B when all the dash light symbols show up, the noise comes back.

Headunit is Alpine 172BT with 3 sets of 4v RCA, Amplifier is Helix H400X class A/B 4 Channel Amplifier. The RCA is Stinger, Speaker Wires are Silver Tinned OFC NVX, Speakers are JBL Component Speakers in the front, coaxials in the back, Power Cables are all oversized OFC NVX cables.

Here're some of the steps I took:
  • The 4 channel RCA is high quality shielded Stinger cable, and routed to the trunk from the opposite side where the power cables are.
  • All cables are OFC Copper.
  • All Grounding points have been sanded down.
  • Tried different grounding points for the Headunit: Didn't work.
  • I tried to use a pair of PAC (PAC CSS12) ground noise isolators on both yellow and red wires going to the headunit : Didn't work.
  • Disconnected the Antenna: Didn't work.
  • I replaced the Battery Ground cable with a heavy duty cable, cleaned the grounding points, the wires are properly crimped and additionally soldered.
  • If I remove the RCA from the Amp, the noise goes away from that channel.
  • I can turn this buzzing noise up and down using the amp level set knobs.
  • The headunit volume control has no effect on this noise.
  • Changing the Source to USB, Radio, BLE etc has no effect on the noise.
  • Disconnected other amps and ran only the 4 channel amp: Didn't work.
  • I tried grounding the RCA at the headunit - Didn't work.
  • I tried grounding the RCA at the amplifier - Didn't work.
  • I tried grounding headunit chassis- Didn't work.
  • I tried grounding amplifier chassis- Didn't work.
I've attached some pictures and the buzzing sound is in the Zip file.

I would greatly appreciate any input.
 

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Take some more ground wiring if you have any left over and put a ring terminal on it and put a bolt and nut together for existing ground lug and just run the other end to a cleaned off bolt to the frame on the underneath of the vehicle (only testing for a new ground location) and see if the issue still persist. If It stops then you have installed at a poor ground location to begin with and just relocate it. If it continues, Its possibly going to be an amplifier or the HU. Did you buy all the amps and HU new or Used?
There are alot of people that will sale theyre problematic audio to the next individual for top $ rather than selling for parts of which I find to be pretty Shittty and quite shady.
 
It really looks like in the pics you have a poor grounding location. Keep in mind.. Most vehicles today are Unibody and not a solid steel framed vehicle chassis, The rear end on most newer vehicles are solid steel parts and are an excellent grounding location. A drilled hole from the trunk space and ground wire to a bolt that can be removed and replaced cleaned off with a ring terminal works very well and penetration sealed with silicone generally works just fine with a rubber grommet around the hole.
 
Thank you for your suggestions. The head unit, amp, every bit of equipment is brand new and bought only from authorized dealers. I would've faulted the amp or the HU, however it works perfect when the key is in position A. The noise starts when it's in ignition and remains unchanged when the engine is running. Right now, the amp grounding point is the big joint right behind the rear seats.
 
The noise starts when it's in ignition and remains unchanged when the engine is running. Right now, the amp grounding point is the big joint right
To pinpoint the issue, connect your phone to the RCA wires that go from behind the radio and into the amp. This will let you know if the noise is coming from the radio or after it. Use a 3.5mm to RCA AND female RCA to female RCA adapters.
 

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To pinpoint the issue, connect your phone to the RCA wires that go from behind the radio and into the amp. This will let you know if the noise is coming from the radio or after it. Use a 3.5mm to RCA AND female RCA to female RCA adapters.
Thank you I'm gonna do this today, I should have a Y cable in my cable drawer
 
Well position "B" is the vehicles "Run" position. What is energized when the key is turned to that spot? The ignition system. Starter/Starter solenoid, Starter ground and Hot wire, Ignition wire from an ignition relay to the starter, battery to that relay. Something is loose or corroded in the ignition system. Just my 2¢
 
All right I did the Y splitter cable test, some interesting findings.
  • The noise is still there if I connect the Y Splitter on the Headunit Side, but disappeared when I connected the Y cable directly to the Amp.
  • The noise disappeared if RCAs are disconnected from the amp.
  • The noise returned when RCAs were reconnected with nothing connected on the Head Unit side (means RCA plugs on the HU side are just hanging in the air, connected to nothing).
  • I tried a brand new RCA pair, same type and brand, connected one end on the amp, nothing on the other side, and just coiled it near where all the power/ground cables are coming into the amp: The noise was still there.
So, just the RCAs carrying that horrible noise? :oops: Unbelievable, with all that triple shielding, twisted pair and directional signal.

Some questions:
  • How come the RCAs are only catching the noise when the Key is in B position, and not when the key is in A position? This is what made me rule the RCAs in the beginning.
  • I'm using stringer RCA cables and they have a direction arrow, which is pointing towards the Amplifiers, is this how it's supposed to be?
  • Can it be because of the spaghetti of power/ground cables near the amp creating this EMP like environment? (attached picture)
  • How to get rid of the noise creeping into this RCA cable?
 

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Yeah... take your time, spend a few minutes on those wires. Twisted speaker wires are desirable for their noise canceling just like twisted RCA's. Always try to run RCA's and Remote wire on the OPPOSITE side of the vehicle as the power wire to the amplifiers from the battery. If they must cross, try to do so at a 90° angle. Use the shortest runs of speaker wire possible and try to avoid the wire ball like you have. All these things will help cut noise.
 
A friend of mine had an issue with noise and whinning on an amplifier in his SQ truck. He was using a Gladen 2 ch. We tried about 5 of my amplifiers with fuse removed at the hood before each swapp out. He ran an 80 PRS HU. The one amplifier that worked and you couldt even hear the noise even driving was one of my Autotek Mean Machine 66hc amps. You could barely hear it. Later to find out that he had hooked up the Gladen HOT and findings and ruling the PICO Fuse issue on the HU. He had the HU repaired and never had that issue again. I have had some short RCAs and added some Female connectors to lengthen the RCAs to an amplifier to find those of Left and Right too close creating an issue with noise, Taped up and worked fine afterwards
 
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