Dayton ultimax 8/4th order


SlugButter

CarAudio.com VIP
Nov 5, 2019
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full build going in a Jeep Patriot. Mostly budget equipment. The subwoofer is an 8 inch Dayton ultimax/300 watts rms, which will be in a 4th order bandpass with the amplifier built into the box. .5 sealed/.375 at 50 hz. Bandwidth is 30 hz to 85ish hz. the subwoofer amplifier module claims 500 rms, but tables at 370 watts rms. Adequate for this sub hopefully. First time using raw modules in this capacity. The door speakers are 6.5 inch goldwoods claiming 90 watts rms. Those will be mounted in an MDF adapter to replace the factory 6x9s in the doors, which will be somewhat deadened. Still running plans through the ringer for pods. Not quite decided on pods or just deadened doors yet. The tweeters are Dayton 1 inch titanium dome. 40 rms. Both running on their own channels on a 4 channel timpano running at 4 ohms with close to 100 rms per channel. Im betting they don’t quite make what they claim. 90 rms per channel will be adequate. Running all of this active from a pioneer 90prs.
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Coolhand20th

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Mar 27, 2019
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Wisconsin
Is that the fuse holder you plan on using? If so junk it and get one with an ANL fuse in it. Much better then those old spade fuses, regardless if you are only pushing what you are pushing for watts.

Also personally I wouldn't mount an amplifier into a box but that is me. Some disagree on this but to each their own.

Good luck otherwise.
 
OP
SlugButter

SlugButter

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That is what is built into the box, similar to a real car amp. I will use a good ANL fuse on the wire for sure.
 
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SlugButter

SlugButter

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the wires will be about an inch long coming out of the shank to the spade fuse, and maybe 2 inches long coming out Of the spade fuse to the power supply.
 
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SlugButter

SlugButter

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Cut sheet and 6x9 adapter rings finished. Assembling the box and port tomorrow. .35 @ 52 hz and .45 sealed. Port is 4 inch pvc running on the outside of the box.
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SlugButter

SlugButter

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Nov 5, 2019
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Doing some testing on the 4th order in the shop before I put the amplifier together In the box. I tested it in the sealed chamber by screwing the top on backwards for a little while, just to see how it will act inside the box. My home made power supply can only get about 125 watts into the sub, but I’m impressed so far with what I’m getting in the free air of my shop. 4th order is the way to go with this sub so far. Impressive output on 125 watts.
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SlugButter

SlugButter

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The amplifier will be built into this cavity, with the fuse, power inputs, audio inputs, voltage meter and gain/filter control running along what I call the bottom, but this could be flipped any which way really. I probably designed the cavity too large, but there will be a mess of wires and maybe a small fan added to the power supply.
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SlugButter

SlugButter

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Nov 5, 2019
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started on mounting the components for the amplifier and getting wiring together. Need to get 10 gauge power and ground wire tomorrow. Power supply will be supplied with two 10 gauge power and ground wires. Potentiometer/gain control and voltmeter with 12 or 14. By the time power hits the amplifier, i should be running at 68-70 volts at the amp.
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SlugButter

SlugButter

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Ugh. Setting up the Amplifier power supply is proving to be an issue. I don’t have a bench power supply that can do this. I want to run the supply for the amp it at a continuous 65 volts and 19.5 amps, but I have nothing that will draw a constant current through the power supply to let me adjust the inputs and the outputs. I can’t just run it through the amp, since I could accidentally discharge 90 volts through my amp board and fry it. I will probably have to just purchase a real power supply for the bench to do this. My homemade one is only capable of 2 amps of current.
 
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SlugButter

SlugButter

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Well. problems with the power supply. There wasnt many details on it when I bought it, so I only knew voltage boost capabilities. It does boost the voltage, but the problem is with the current it can deliver. I need to convert 13 volts up to 65 volts to get my desired 350 watts continuous power from the amp module, which it does, but it has a limit of 20 amps of current on the input side of the power supply. Once it converts up to 65 volts, I’m only getting 4 amps of output, and I’m already maxed at the limit of 20 amps coming in. So, 20 amps in and 4 amps out isn’t going to do it. It was a 13 dollar power supply module from China, so I half expected this would happen. Ordered a different power supply from Wondom, which will give me over 13 amps at the output instead of 4. It’s 65$ compared to 13$, but the old saying usually applies...... I got what I paid for.
 

shredder2

CarAudio.com Elite
Nov 19, 2017
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Omg... try a legit amp with legit wiring my man... heatsinks matter

It takes power to... etc.

I suppose a 50w amp is enuff for me they said... efficiency and all...idk.

A less than 1:1 enclosure needs a specfiic driver. Or knowledge designing the thing.

Change my mind...

Ima noob
 
Last edited:
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SlugButter

SlugButter

CarAudio.com VIP
Nov 5, 2019
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arizona
Omg... try a legit amp with legit wiring my man... heatsinks matter

It takes power to... etc.

I suppose a 50w amp is enuff for me they said... efficiency and all...idk.

A less than 1:1 enclosure needs a specfiic driver. Or knowledge designing the thing.

Change my mind...

Ima noob
the driver sounds very nice in this enclosure. Flat signal from 30-85 hz. I’ve done this enclosure before for this sub more than once. Never done the amp build I’m doing, but it benches at 320 watts rms wattage if I can keep it supplied with As far as wiring goes, I need a 4 gauge run from the battery, but the short wires inside the amp compartment doesn’t need that if I keep them all short. I’ve worked with this type of stuff before in different applications. if I can get stable power to it, it will work just fine. Will it be as efficient as amps on the market today? I doubt it. It’s a novelty for sure.
 

shredder2

CarAudio.com Elite
Nov 19, 2017
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I cant help you designing a 4th... I can "advise" you tho... take your "370w rms" amp and use it for a good skeet shoot. Find a legit 500w to throw at your sub man... IME parts express stuff/projects can't overcome road noise usually. Real world.
 
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SlugButter

SlugButter

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Nov 5, 2019
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I cant help you designing a 4th... I can "advise" you tho... take your "370w rms" amp and use it for a good skeet shoot. Find a legit 500w to throw at your sub man... IME parts express stuff/projects can't overcome road noise usually. Real world.
you may be right, but I’ve worked with this stuff before. I’ve just never had to do it off a battery. I’ve used tordial transformers and normal DC power supplies with good results. I am worried about ground loop noise with these more than anything. I actually have an amp that runs the sub already, so the 4th order has been tested at length to my wife and her rattling dishes dismay. There is no way I would ever put this sub in any enclosure other than a 4th order after playing with it. Sealed and ported will only disappoint me now. This sub is ripe born for a 4th order. I will be doing the 10, the 12 and maybe even the 15 ultimax in a 4th order before 2021 is over. Ive never heard an 8 inch sub perform better than this one In that enclosure. Can’t wait to get it metered. Will meter it on my homemade amp and a normal class D to compare performance.
 

shredder2

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Nov 19, 2017
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There's NO way a port that long will work well tuned... 50hz?

Have you done a 4th before?

I wanna duct my bass as well.. I got ideas too
you may be right, but I’ve worked with this stuff before. This sub is ripe born for a 4th order. Ive never heard an 8 inch sub perform better than this one In that enclosure. Can’t wait to get it metered. Will meter it on my homemade amp and a normal class D to compare performance.
those 8's CAN be tricky... how about 4 6.5"?



2 8's, 4 6,5" can hammer,, but a single 8" underpowered in a low ratio 4th?

Just be sure to power it right
 
OP
SlugButter

SlugButter

CarAudio.com VIP
Nov 5, 2019
418
132
arizona
There's NO way a port that long will work well tuned... 50hz?

Have you done a 4th before?

I wanna duct my bass as well.. I got ideas too


those 8's CAN be tricky... how about 4 6.5"?



2 8's, 4 6,5" can hammer,, but a single 8" underpowered in a low ratio 4th?

Just be sure to power it right
That’s exactly why I’ve already been pounding on it with a normal amp that I know. JL g1700. the IRS2092 board I’m using benches at 320 rms with under 1% distortion. 385 is a stretch with it. I have done 4ths before. I even failed at a 6th order once. Lol. I’ve never put 6.5s in my vehicle yet, but I have done a few home audio builds with them. I just finished doing a tang band 5.25 ported in a bluetooth build. Hearing that sub definitely makes me want to play around with some 6.5s of theirs. Not big enough for car audio, but I’ve been looking at the sundowns to play with.
 

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