Crossover help

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

Ok, I have an Alpine 3672 Active crossover ad I'm not quite sure how to set it up. The ortion I will be using (does 2/3way front, 2 way rear, and sub; but I'm only using the 2-way front.) has 3 dials for frequency adjustment:

Low: 10Hz-120Hz

Mid: 200Hz-2KHz

High: 3KHz-10KHz

I just don't know how to set everything up. I'm assuming that if I flip the switch to combine the low and mid ranges that the low setting will be the highpass and the mid setting will be the lowpass. Then the high setting will be a highpass filter and will just let the tweets play as high as they need to. Am I right here?

Also, I was planning on crossing my tweets at 3 KHz to begin with, but this x-over only lets the mids go up to 2 kHz. Can you overcome that gap with EQ and if so, how?

Anyway, here's what I'm TRYING to do:

Sub: Lowpassed at 60 Hz and SSF set at 20 Hz (Will use amp controls for this not the active unit)

Mids: 60Hz-3KHZ (But will have to settle for 2 KHz and fix it with EQ I'm guessing)

Tweets: 3Khz and up.

The crossover can also adjust from -6db to +6db, and can flip the phase 180 degrees.

Thanks for all the help guys, this is a very nice all-in-one unit and it would **** if I had to sell and get something simplere because I'm too dumb to figure it out.

TIA

Aaron

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[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

Here's some more info and pics from the guy that I got it from.

I believe the slopes are set at 18db/octave, other than that I havent found any info about it at all. I bought it a year ago with the purpose of going active, but ever really got around to it.
If you didnt catch the rest of the info on ROE...Alpine 3672 crossover. VERY rare never even seen one for sale. Made back in the Golden days of Alpine in Japan unlike todays crap. Does three way active front, two way rear, sub out, and has individual gains and phase switches for each set of channels. Parallel inputs. Has on scratch across face that doesnt effect performance.

You can set the fronts to do three way, two way, or one way and the rear two or one. The only down fall is the crossover points are dependent of the others.

For the front, they are all high pass crossovers, so whatever you set your midbass, the low pass depends on what you set your high pass on the midrange and so on...not to big of a deal just takes away a little tweeking like if you want to add a larger gap or overlap the two speakers...

For the subwoofer, its a lowpass ranging from 50-120HZ, the Front midbass ranges from 10HZ-120HZ high pass, the midrange varies from 200HZ-2KHZ and the tweet ranges from 3khz-10khz...

For the rear the Mid woofer ranges from 50-800HZ and the tweet 3khz-10khz...

Whew...hope that helps. i was trying to take a picture but the flash wasnt really working out for me...

Edit: i lied, you can see the crossover points clearer than I thought. You can also see the scratch....

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

Anybody out there?

*Cricket noises

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

Please help me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I just bought the last part of my system and need to know how to set it up. Don't make me buy another crossover if I don't have to.

COME OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN

 

[Twistid 5,000+ posts]

lol im in the same boat

its all greek to me

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

You're working on passive units though, right? I could probably figure out a more basic unit like the coustic XM6, but I just had to pick up this piece of Alpine greatness when I saw it.

 

[Twistid 5,000+ posts]

no im trying to go active, but i want to understand it before i do it... a passive xover most likely wont work with the tweeter/woofer setup im using unless i get something custom built which would defeat the purpose of going passive in the first place (to save money)

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

no im trying to go active, but i want to understand it before i do it... a passive xover most likely wont work with the tweeter/woofer setup im using unless i get something custom built which would defeat the purpose of going passive in the first place (to save money)

I hear ya. Look into the Coustic XM6. Good active crossover, and you can get them on eBay for like $35 plus shipping. I was going to get one, but picked this unit up in a trade for an Eclipse woofer that was collecting dust in my basement.

 

[MiniVanMan 10+ year member]

Okay, I'm not at all familiar with that unit. Check over at http://www.diymobileaudio.com. Somebody over there may be familiar with the unit.

First off, we have to figure out where your low passes are. The high pass for your tweeters is pretty straight forward. However, if you can bandpass your mid, then we can start there. It's not uncommon to underlap crossover frequencies. Understand that a typical Linkwitz-Riley crossover network, by default is an underlapped network. It's not as dramatic as a 1/2 octave difference, but it's underlapped nonetheless.

In this case if you low pass your mid at 2khz, and high pass your tweeter at 3 khz, you can use some EQ to bump up the response at about 2.5 khz. It's not a bad idea to do this anyway, if you're mounting the drivers in your doors. If you have the type of EQ that you can adjust the Q, go for a wide Q. 7" drivers have a tendency to display the effects of an off-axis alignment by the low 2000s.

Now another option is to high pass your G18s (Yes, your G18s), and let them roll off naturally up top. The cone breakup of the G18 is very minimal. It's greater than the CA18RNX, but it's still pretty mild. It might not be noticeable at all. Then you just blend your tweeter as needed. That's a simple solution, should you not get the 2khz/3khz crossover point worked out.

Again though, check over at DIYMA for some possible specifics on that unit.

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

Thanks Gary, I'll post up a thread over there real quick. May have to pick up a new HU this summer. Don't know what kind of EQ this unit has.

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

Nevermind, I somehow missed this part. Pretty much takes care of my problems.

You can set the fronts to do three way, two way, or one way and the rear two or one. The only down fall is the crossover points are dependent of the others.
For the front, they are all high pass crossovers, so whatever you set your midbass, the low pass depends on what you set your high pass on the midrange and so on...not to big of a deal just takes away a little tweeking like if you want to add a larger gap or overlap the two speakers...

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