Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Crossover help
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="MiniVanMan" data-source="post: 2944615" data-attributes="member: 573252"><p>Okay, I'm not at all familiar with that unit. Check over at <a href="http://www.diymobileaudio.com." target="_blank">http://www.diymobileaudio.com.</a> Somebody over there may be familiar with the unit.</p><p></p><p>First off, we have to figure out where your low passes are. The high pass for your tweeters is pretty straight forward. However, if you can bandpass your mid, then we can start there. It's not uncommon to underlap crossover frequencies. Understand that a typical Linkwitz-Riley crossover network, by default is an underlapped network. It's not as dramatic as a 1/2 octave difference, but it's underlapped nonetheless.</p><p></p><p>In this case if you low pass your mid at 2khz, and high pass your tweeter at 3 khz, you can use some EQ to bump up the response at about 2.5 khz. It's not a bad idea to do this anyway, if you're mounting the drivers in your doors. If you have the type of EQ that you can adjust the Q, go for a wide Q. 7" drivers have a tendency to display the effects of an off-axis alignment by the low 2000s.</p><p></p><p>Now another option is to high pass your G18s (Yes, your G18s), and let them roll off naturally up top. The cone breakup of the G18 is very minimal. It's greater than the CA18RNX, but it's still pretty mild. It might not be noticeable at all. Then you just blend your tweeter as needed. That's a simple solution, should you not get the 2khz/3khz crossover point worked out.</p><p></p><p>Again though, check over at DIYMA for some possible specifics on that unit.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MiniVanMan, post: 2944615, member: 573252"] Okay, I'm not at all familiar with that unit. Check over at [URL="http://www.diymobileaudio.com."]http://www.diymobileaudio.com.[/URL] Somebody over there may be familiar with the unit. First off, we have to figure out where your low passes are. The high pass for your tweeters is pretty straight forward. However, if you can bandpass your mid, then we can start there. It's not uncommon to underlap crossover frequencies. Understand that a typical Linkwitz-Riley crossover network, by default is an underlapped network. It's not as dramatic as a 1/2 octave difference, but it's underlapped nonetheless. In this case if you low pass your mid at 2khz, and high pass your tweeter at 3 khz, you can use some EQ to bump up the response at about 2.5 khz. It's not a bad idea to do this anyway, if you're mounting the drivers in your doors. If you have the type of EQ that you can adjust the Q, go for a wide Q. 7" drivers have a tendency to display the effects of an off-axis alignment by the low 2000s. Now another option is to high pass your G18s (Yes, your G18s), and let them roll off naturally up top. The cone breakup of the G18 is very minimal. It's greater than the CA18RNX, but it's still pretty mild. It might not be noticeable at all. Then you just blend your tweeter as needed. That's a simple solution, should you not get the 2khz/3khz crossover point worked out. Again though, check over at DIYMA for some possible specifics on that unit. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Crossover help
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list