Critique the Box

[acreature 10+ year member]

Overall Dimensions:

(w)23-5/8" x (h)12" x (d)14-3/4"

1 cu ft for Diamond Audio D310D4

46-1/8" port length @ 2"x10.5"

Should be tuned between 32-33hz

Close? Or no cigar?

Click to read more...

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Seems like a pretty long port what's the total cubic footage of the box?

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Seems like a pretty long port what's the total cubic footage of the box?

It's 1 cube. OP, I would make the port 1.75" wide, that should cut down your length a good bit.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Seems like a pretty long port what's the total cubic footage of the box?

He said 1 cube.

I don't like a port with that many bends in it, but whatever. Should function better than prefab.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Apparently I can't read. It looks alright to me, may want to cut down on the port area some.

 

[acreature 10+ year member]

1cu ft

I figured the cu ft plus driver displacement, then calculated the port at 2" wide x 10.5 tall, and worked the port around the original 1cu ft box.

I wanted a wider slot (2") than the 1.5". The 1.5" had me at about 33-36 inches in length. Can't recall exactly, but the narrower the slot, the shorter the port.

Hope I am not confusing.

Per the 12volt "Slot Port Length Calculator":

port width @ 2", port height @ 10.5", box cu ft @ 1, @ 33hz = 48 inches of port.

Per carstereo "Calculate Your Vent Length":

Same specs as above = 47 inches of port.

I could not get WinISD to save what specs I had for the D310D4, so didn't use it.

edit, just saw that you saw, ha!

 

[acreature 10+ year member]

He said 1 cube.I don't like a port with that many bends in it, but whatever. Should function better than prefab.

Agreed.

I didn't want to risk a smaller width port and gain port noise. At 1.5", I would still have at least two corners. Unless I widened the box and lessened the depth, I see no alternative.

Ideas?

 

[acreature 10+ year member]

It's 1 cube. OP, I would make the port 1.75" wide, that should cut down your length a good bit.

I'll try to work that out. I reckon killing off that last choke point front left (speaker side) and opening it up would make a noticeable difference?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Agreed.
I didn't want to risk a smaller width port and gain port noise. At 1.5", I would still have at least two corners. Unless I widened the box and lessened the depth, I see no alternative.

Ideas?

Passive radiator?

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Dude the turns in the box aren't going to make that much of a difference plus he bent them in the right way. All he needs to do imo is bring down the port area a little.

 

[acreature 10+ year member]

Passive radiator?

I have never messed with that idea. Not sure if I want to after doing a quick read. Above my pay grade and skill level. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif

 

[acreature 10+ year member]

All he needs to do imo is bring down the port area a little.

Slimming the port to 1.75 drops me to 41-42 in of port.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

The length of the port is to achieve tuning. The port isn't too long, just too much port area. You see what I'm saying? You're dropping square inches, not port length.

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

The general rule of thumb for port area is 12-16 sqin. per cubic foot. You have 1 cube, so you need 12 - 16 sqin. of port. With a 1.75" wide port, you have roughly 19 in^2 of port area -- which isn't necessarily a bad thing. Ideally for smaller boxes you want to keep the port ratio to 1:8. The minimum port width I would do with a port that's 10.5" tall is ~1.25".

 

[acreature 10+ year member]

The length of the port is to achieve tuning. The port isn't too long, just too much port area. You see what I'm saying? You're dropping square inches, not port length.

Lord. My head hurts. I'll keep my day job.