youdoofus
Skibidi
if you can also dye and tap the screw holes, i guess it would depend on that and the cost of the raw material. Im sure the sky high ones would be prettier, but no more functional as long as the conductivity of the material you get is on par with the sky highs
- Thread Starter
- #3
Yes, they will be threaded.
We put a crap ton of money into audio upgrades, some more than others... Just curious why I don't see more copper battery terminals. Is there a Con I am missing with copper on the battery?
just overlooked?
not worth cost?
youdoofus
Skibidi
probably cost.
Hertz Mafia
FEATHER RUFFLER
There are tons of cooper terminals and bus bars out there forsale. Just cost alittle more then Aluminium.
- Thread Starter
- #6
I've been looking for copper terminals but all I see are coated brass terminals or different metal. I looked at JL, Knukonceptz, Woofers etc, ebay, amazon (a few more random sites). Maybe I misread them but I don't believe they are 99% copper.
Sky High is the only ones I found and that was through Google Images.
Most of our power should come from the Alt so will true copper terminals make a difference?
youdoofus
Skibidi
The rules that electricity is forced to obey due to physics say yes
---------- Post added at 12:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------
There is a reason the big installs use as pure of copper as they can get
blazian87
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
I feel like swapping to copper terminals are not gonna make that much of a difference in your case as long as the rest of your electrical is on par. It certainly doesn't hurt either but if you're gonna go out of your way to make your own terminals and don't really see a difference in voltage, then it's just a waste of time. A 2nd battery in the rear would make much more of a difference, especially when it's closer to the sub amp. I would start with that. Also running dual inputs to your amp with a 2nd run would also help, less resistance equals better voltage. How low do you drop to?
- Thread Starter
- #9
[quote name='blazian87']I feel like swapping to copper terminals are not gonna make that much of a difference in your case as long as the rest of your electrical is on par. It certainly doesn't hurt either but if you're gonna go out of your way to make your own terminals and don't really see a difference in voltage, then it's just a waste of time. A 2nd battery in the rear would make much more of a difference, especially when it's closer to the sub amp. I would start with that. Also running dual inputs to your amp with a 2nd run would also help, less resistance equals better voltage. How low do you drop to?[/QUOTE]
Hey bro. I was planning to run one zero gauge from the front to the second battery behind my rear seats, then zero gauge from 2nd bat to amps. Would 2 zero gauge runs from 2nd bat work best (not sure how I would squeeze dual 0ga to a single amp inlet tho).
@the front bat it drops to 12.5 (might drop more on different songs) and on same song, @the mids/sub they both go to 11.3 and mids start to clip and amp goes into protect mode. With that said, I've not played full blast in months.
I should have 2nd battery installed this weekend.
Hey bro. I was planning to run one zero gauge from the front to the second battery behind my rear seats, then zero gauge from 2nd bat to amps. Would 2 zero gauge runs from 2nd bat work best (not sure how I would squeeze dual 0ga to a single amp inlet tho).
@the front bat it drops to 12.5 (might drop more on different songs) and on same song, @the mids/sub they both go to 11.3 and mids start to clip and amp goes into protect mode. With that said, I've not played full blast in months.
I should have 2nd battery installed this weekend.
blazian87
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
[quote name='West1']Hey bro. I was planning to run one zero gauge from the front to the second battery behind my rear seats, then zero gauge from 2nd bat to amps. Would 2 zero gauge runs from 2nd bat work best (not sure how I would squeeze dual 0ga to a single amp inlet tho).
@the front bat it drops to 12.5 (might drop more on different songs) and on same song, @the mids/sub they both go to 11.3 and mids start to clip and amp goes into protect mode. With that said, I've not played full blast in months.
I should have 2nd battery installed this weekend.[/QUOTE]
wsup bro, yea that's a pretty big drop. 2nd batt will make a difference for sure, by how much its hard to say. You can buy a dual input from skyhigh or gp or whereever actually. skyhigh makes the copper ones so I would look into that if money allows. Makes a cleaner install and will fit just fine. and yes run the dual run from 2nd batt. make it short as possible too. Make sure you run another fuse for 2nd batt as well for safety reasons.
SHCA Products - Machined Amp Inputs - Sky High Car Audio
*GP Dual Amplifier Inputs - gp car audio
@the front bat it drops to 12.5 (might drop more on different songs) and on same song, @the mids/sub they both go to 11.3 and mids start to clip and amp goes into protect mode. With that said, I've not played full blast in months.
I should have 2nd battery installed this weekend.[/QUOTE]
wsup bro, yea that's a pretty big drop. 2nd batt will make a difference for sure, by how much its hard to say. You can buy a dual input from skyhigh or gp or whereever actually. skyhigh makes the copper ones so I would look into that if money allows. Makes a cleaner install and will fit just fine. and yes run the dual run from 2nd batt. make it short as possible too. Make sure you run another fuse for 2nd batt as well for safety reasons.
SHCA Products - Machined Amp Inputs - Sky High Car Audio
*GP Dual Amplifier Inputs - gp car audio
- Thread Starter
- #11
Ahhh, I had a total different picture in my mind lol. Correct, I did buy a few fuse holders. One per battery (will have 2 between both bats like google diagram) and another between 2nd bat and amps (3 more being added as 1 is already between #1 bat-sub).
View attachment 26557276
Those copper ones look super nice but not sure I want to spend another 50.00 for a single X10 sub...
I do however want to buy a battery charger and last I had a thread, if I recall correctly, the Ctek 7002 was the best choice for audio. Or you think its best to buy the dual copper inputs over the charger?
...screw it, ordered a pair of dual 0ga Copper inputs
Last edited by a moderator:
Boomin_tahoe
5,000+ posts
Hurtin' feelings errrday.
Are you a machinist as well? A 4th and 5th axis is fine but a 3 axis is better suited for your project, should you choose to go that route. Those other "2 axis" are for more complicated/complexed machining.
I can see what your asking here and found this chart https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=%2bKfi%2bStD&id=54B9608A069DF965700749B135EFA09F82866386&thid=OIP.-Kfi-StD7zNXlpRF6CejpgHaJE&mediaurl=https%3a%2f%2fqph.ec.quoracdn.net%2fmain-qimg-895f8715d9c5c301602acd66f7ccd4ef-c&exph=300&expw=245&q=what%27s+a+better+electrical+conductor+aluminum+or+copper&simid=607990470154256571&selectedIndex=0&ajaxhist=0
Aluminum is the easiest metal to cut at any speed, any feed and still come out with a good finish, not to mention cheap. However, the bigger aluminum pieces, the more $$ it is. Copper on the other hand is heavier, more expensive and is picky when it comes to being cut. I made some copper buss bars for someone last year around summertime and it was 3/4" thick by 5" length. I have my own mill machine in my garage so I lent a hand to the guy.
- Thread Starter
- #13
Yes sir, I am a 13yr machinist. Our 4 and 5 axis can do flat work, no problem. We also have conventional 3 axis mills if need be. Although we manu large semi large material, I can program and run it. We have a few pieces of aluminum but reading which is better, copper is over aluminum. I don't mind having mediocre speakers but I would like to have the best wiring/connections to my knowledge.
Boomin_tahoe
5,000+ posts
Hurtin' feelings errrday.
No 3 axis CNC verticals? To me, it's a waste to have such a large machine making a small part or 2....is where I was gettin' at. But I don't know the invironment there/you work with.
Is there a website where you work? Always like to see diff machinery at companies.
- Thread Starter
- #15
Not sure, I'll PM you our Website. We are in the Pump & Mechanical Seal Industry (majority is Oil&gas).
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