Consider this a warning for Big 3 people, fuse yo sht!!

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif there is a wire from the factory that runs from the alt to the battery, which is fused.....how else would the alternator maintain the battery?
the big 3 is simply upgrading that wire, by adding on an additional wire of a larger size to accomadate larger current flow.

Duh...your right..i think i was snoozing on that one. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif sorry

 
what brand of electrical tape did you use. (THE OP)the cheaper shit is PVC and the nicer stuff (3m) temflex or super 33 is vinyl. the cheap crap will melt off and doesnt hold worth a shit if there is any moisture on it.

i too am an electrician by trade.. i plan on using the good stuff when i do my big 3 in a couple weeks.

lucky for me i guess, work pays for the better non chinese crap


Wouldn't you agree that for this application heat shrink would be much more suitable?

when I upgraded my underhood wiring I used all 1/0 high strand count copper with properly sized high pressure crimp lugs with techflex and heat shrink, no chance of shorts on my runs.

oh and btw, i'm a commercial electrican by trade also.

 
Duh...your right..i think i was snoozing on that one. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif sorry
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

 
Like I said before, a fuse on this wire is only going to save either the alt, or the battery in an event of a failure.......im suprised the damage wasnt worse actually, hence the wire was still attached since it welded itself to the casing and there was still juice traveling through it. A fuse in this case would simply have cut the power going throught he cable from the battery, but it would have done nothing for your alternator.
So actually, in this case, it shows that not fusing this wire, really didnt make much of a difference.
Exactly what I was thinking when they said FUSE IT! LOL

 
I am about to do BIG 3 and I read a couple things in the thread. Now what will be better. Using 4 gauge wiring for the alt to batt+ or using a 1/0 gauge and using a fuse?

 
If you can accommodate the larger wire on the post of the alt then go for it, but if it has a chance of touching the casing of the alt, then I wouldnt.....

 
I am about to do BIG 3 and I read a couple things in the thread. Now what will be better. Using 4 gauge wiring for the alt to batt+ or using a 1/0 gauge and using a fuse?
I did 4 with no fuse per Ohio Gen. It's such a short run, 1/0 would be overkill (granted that's what a lot of us are about here), but the posts are really too small for that size wire anyway, though it is possible. I just did what they recommended so I have someone to blame if there ever was a problem.

 
If you can accommodate the larger wire on the post of the alt then go for it, but if it has a chance of touching the casing of the alt, then I wouldnt.....
Personally I believe this is what caused the meltdown in this thread, and specifically why I was instructed not to use that large of a cable.

 
Personally I believe this is what caused the meltdown in this thread, and specifically why I was instructed not to use that large of a cable.
Yes exactly, but it is all going to depend on the alternator, for mine personally, my 220amp Iraggi, can hold a 1/0 ring terminal on the post no problem. Which is exactly what I will be putting on it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif there is a wire from the factory that runs from the alt to the battery, which is fused.....how else would the alternator maintain the battery?
the big 3 is simply upgrading that wire, by adding on an additional wire of a larger size to accomadate larger current flow.
How about Fuseable links???
 
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