Consider this a warning for Big 3 people, fuse yo sht!!

I can definately say its a good idea to fuse that wire, it probably "should" be done, but is not completely necessary. Now, in a dramatic case, it would be a very good idea to have that wire fused. In case it grounded out, and arced itself to say.....the alternator housing lol, like what has happened here.

I would definately recommend it to those that are worried about having any issues with such a case.

 
This does provide good insight to the question raised. Obviously it shows exactly what can happen if the wire isnt fused, and it could possibly even burn the car to the ground........

 
that was not caused by a fuse it was caused by a loose connection on the wire going to the alt..... how do i know the same exact thing happend to my alt in my truck... my truck got broke into and they poped my hood and started to take the 1/0 off the alt but left the bolt half out well i forgot about it and about 1 day later i had the top of my alt melted

 
Electrical tape is rated for use on circuits up to 600 Volts, but it isn't rated for hazardous locations, like an engine bay!
Looks to me like you problem was too big of a lug was used for that for that small stud, and the tape on the lug lost it's adhesion due to the heat that the alternator produced, which caused the tape to unwind and your alternators case was the unfortunate location of some arc welding.
Tape was not melted/damaged at all. Lug was still stuck on bolt, in fact it was welded to the bolt.

Also, this has been like this for awhile, like atleast 6-8 months.

that was not caused by a fuse it was caused by a loose connection on the wire going to the alt..... how do i know the same exact thing happend to my alt in my truck... my truck got broke into and they poped my hood and started to take the 1/0 off the alt but left the bolt half out well i forgot about it and about 1 day later i had the top of my alt melted


Trust me, it wasnt loose. Only way i can see it doing this is if the wire crimp bent down a tad and hit the case. Which may have been the case, but again, this was not done last week, and a fuse would have saved everything.

 
I've read this thread, and it seems like everyone is jumping on the "fuse" band wagon. Dont get me wrong, it a great preventative measure to have a fuses. But I dont believe this issue would have been prevented if there was a fuse on this wire. Here's my reasoning... If you put a fuse on the wire going from the Alt to the battery, where would you be puting it? I'm guessing somewhere between 3 inches and 2 feet away from the actual Alternator post. Now the reason the fuse is there as we all know is that when the amperage(from a short) will exceed the fuses rating and blow the fuse to cut the circut. Well if the short happens BEFORE the fuse, which seems to be the case here (looks like the o-ring touched the casing) the fuse would have never blown b/c it was after the short circut. Now this senerio would be the case when the cars running since the alternator is the primary power source. IF the car was off, and the short happened and there was a fuse on the line..then it would have prevented this issue since the battery is the primary power source when the car is off.

In my car, the stock wiring never had a fuse close to the alternator, there is about 5 feet of wire off the alterator which goes to the main fuse block. If there was a short somewhere in that 5 feet of wire while the car was running...that wire would be toast since the alt is the power source when the cars running

 
Looks to me like you problem was too big of a lug was used for that for that small stud, and the tape on the lug lost it's adhesion due to the heat that the alternator produced, which caused the tape to unwind and your alternators case was the unfortunate location of some arc welding.
I'm thinking along those lines too, but I don't see the tape being part of the equation.

I don't think a fuse would have changed anything, it looks like the circiut ran from the output stud (or terminal) directly to the alt case, and that wide terminal looks like it might have been the problem.

Also, this has been like this for awhile, like atleast 6-8 months.
That does support your case, but things change, especially through extreme heat/cold cycles.

Trust me, it wasnt loose. Only way i can see it doing this is if the wire crimp bent down a tad and hit the case. Which may have been the case, but again, this was not done last week, and a fuse would have saved everything.
again - I don't think a fuse would have changed anything. The current/heat happened AT the terminal. Unless the wire insulation was melting a few inches downstream from the alt I don't see any evidence that the wire was seeing any of this excess current.

 
again - I don't think a fuse would have changed anything. The current/heat happened AT the terminal. Unless the wire insulation was melting a few inches downstream from the alt I don't see any evidence that the wire was seeing any of this excess current.
Word. Unless the wire is discolored or damaged anywhere PAST the lug, then the lug was simply too big and it grounded out. This wouldn't have been protected by a fuse because the fuse isn't in the path of current flow anymore.

 
hmm...interesting, i figured if there was a short anywhere along the line it would have popped the fuse, which would have stopped current flow and would have noticeably effected performance of the vehicle. But ive been wrong before.

 
idk, an electrician told me not to tape the ends, they have silicon end pieces that can be put over those, and i don't believe catch fire until ridiculous heat incurs..at the point the wire surround would light on fire..lol
what brand of electrical tape did you use. (THE OP)

the cheaper shit is PVC and the nicer stuff (3m) temflex or super 33 is vinyl. the cheap crap will melt off and doesnt hold worth a shit if there is any moisture on it.

Scotch® Super 33+ Vinyl Electrical Tape, 3/4 in x 20 ft (19 mm x 6.1 m)Stickier, stretchier and highly conformable, a premium grade, 7-mil tape. Flame retardant, hot and cold weather resistant, Super 33+ resists UV rays, abrasion, moisture, alkalies, acids and corrosion. Use as a primary insulation for wire cables splices.
i too am an electrician by trade.. i plan on using the good stuff when i do my big 3 in a couple weeks.

lucky for me i guess, work pays for the better non chinese crap

 
what brand of electrical tape did you use. (THE OP)the cheaper shit is PVC and the nicer stuff (3m) temflex or super 33 is vinyl. the cheap crap will melt off and doesnt hold worth a shit if there is any moisture on it.

i too am an electrician by trade.. i plan on using the good stuff when i do my big 3 in a couple weeks.

lucky for me i guess, work pays for the better non chinese crap
the vinyl ftmfw....

 
I'm thinking along those lines too, but I don't see the tape being part of the equation.I don't think a fuse would have changed anything, it looks like the circiut ran from the output stud (or terminal) directly to the alt case, and that wide terminal looks like it might have been the problem.

That exaclty was my point in my first post. Since the short happened right at the Alt's stud and casing, the fuse never would play into the equation. When i used to compete IASCA , the rule was that the fuse off the battery couldnt be farther the 18 inches...now if the short happened before the fuse...i'd be screwed. If the short was after the fuse (like at the firewall, or anywhere after) the the fuse would blow saving my car from a nice fire.
 
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