connecting 3 power lines together, IS IT POSSIBLE?!

[Zach85 10+ year member]

Hi,

In a previous thread I've started about a week ago, I was discribing that my issue of installing a CD Player along with an Equalizer right under the Headunit. I've done head unit installations in the past, but never did install an Equalizer yet, as this is about to be my first one.

I've been told only by one guy I shouldn't have a problem connecting (or splicing) 3 power lines together, BUT I want to verify from other people as well. Not saying I don't trust the guy that told me, I just still fear I'll screw something up. I'll feel more confident if more people than just one or two tell me that it is ok.

It would be a 3-way connection, the Ignition Power from the car pushing power to the Ignition Power from the Headunit and the 12V power from the Equalizer. They way I see it, as long as only no more than 1 line is pushing power, it really doesn't matter how many can receive power from the same source, as long as you don't go overboard. Am I right or Am I wrong????

the same with the Ground, except my car doesn't have a ground wire since the factory unit grounds itself on metal contact. So I have to put ring terminal connectors on the ground from the Head Unit and the Equalizer, and attach them to the Chassis with a screw. Is it ok if I use the same screw for both, or should I seperate the ground wires? Thanks in advance for any help!

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[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

I don't see any problems with using a common power source for multiple items providing that the current draw doesn't exceed the amperage capacity of that particular circuit.

Nor do I see any issue with using a common grounding point assuming that it's a solid ground at that particular point. In my trunk the main ground (which is welded to the spare tire mount under the trunk floor goes into a StreetWires distro. Then both of my amps, two blue neon rods, and the relay that takes of remote turn-on duties are all grounded to the distro as well. Hasn't gimme any problems yet!

 

[Zach85 10+ year member]

I don't see any problems with using a common power source for multiple items providing that the current draw doesn't exceed the amperage capacity of that particular circuit.

I can just connect the 3 powers directly right? i don't have to use any sort of splitter or anything?

Nor do I see any issue with using a common grounding point assuming that it's a solid ground at that particular point. In my trunk the main ground (which is welded to the spare tire mount under the trunk floor goes into a StreetWires distro. Then both of my amps, two blue neon rods, and the relay that takes of remote turn-on duties are all grounded to the distro as well. Hasn't gimme any problems yet!

Remote Turn-On duty? My EQ has a Remote-On wire and the other guy told me that it connects to the Power Antenna because Jensen's online manual for my head unit says that the Dark Blue wire is for Power Antenna or Amplifier. Do you suggest doing something differently?

Thanks for your direct answer. I am now more confident about this installation, and will install it as soon as I get my car back from the mechanic's.

 

[jrz126 10+ year member]

I can just connect the 3 powers directly right? i don't have to use any sort of splitter or anything?

You could get some sort of crimp terminal and stick all of the wires in or just twist the ends together real good and wrap some electrical tape on them.

Remote Turn-On duty? My EQ has a Remote-On wire and the other guy told me that it connects to the Power Antenna because Jensen's online manual for my head unit says that the Dark Blue wire is for Power Antenna or Amplifier. Do you suggest doing something differently?

Prowler573 is using a relay to operate multiple items (neons ect.) from his HU remote wire. Since the remote wire is only able to handle about .5 amps, a relay is needed to allow for higher currents.

you'll be fine just using the blue wire on the HU.

 

[Zach85 10+ year member]

Thanks for your response. I just wanted to make sure that I could connect the three wires directly together instead of getting some power splitter or whatever from a hardware store. Anyways, I think the car should be done at the mechanic's this week, hopefully next week at the latest, and I'll post some pictures of my setup then. Thanks again!

 

[RandyJ 10+ year member]

Thanks for your response. I just wanted to make sure that I could connect the three wires directly together instead of getting some power splitter or whatever from a hardware store. Anyways, I think the car should be done at the mechanic's this week, hopefully next week at the latest, and I'll post some pictures of my setup then. Thanks again!

Well good luck. I'm a lil tired right now so there are some things you said that I can't quite picture but te pics will clarify for me. The suggestion jrz126 gave about all the wires into one crimp terminal could easily turn nasty behind your dash so be careful and do a quality job wen installing it.

 

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

I can just connect the 3 powers directly right? i don't have to use any sort of splitter or anything?

I don't see the necessity for any extra 'splitter' or anything of that nature. Just be certain it's a solid connection and use a wire nut, solder the wires together and then cover them with heatshrink tubing (I love that stuff, personally) or some other similar secure connection. No one wants loose wires causing a short and/or a fire behind their dash. It's never fun...

Remote Turn-On duty? My EQ has a Remote-On wire and the other guy told me that it connects to the Power Antenna because Jensen's online manual for my head unit says that the Dark Blue wire is for Power Antenna or Amplifier. Do you suggest doing something differently?

If your head unit's remote turn-on output is only going to activating one or two items then connecting the one or both things directly to that output shouldn't pose a problem. But along with two amplifiers the remote turn-on from my head unit activates two 20" neon tubes and a couple of other things as well. With the average head unit remote turn-on circuit only carrying 500 milliamps (1/2 of an ampere as posted by jrz126) I would run the risk of burning that circuit out of my HU by making it try to feed more than it was designed to. So - I installed a 30 amp relay to turn on the afore-mentioned items and the relay is activated by the head unit's remote cicuit. Only making it activate one thing instead of several makes it a lot happier in the long run. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Zach85 10+ year member]

I'm using electrical tape. i believe it provides the best protection against loose wires. Believe it or not, I had a friend who has seen a case where someone used those twisty terminal things or whatever they are and a power wire did get loose. Could've messed up his Unit, or worse.

Also, my very first installation in my 87 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, my friend helped me with it. He uses those terminal things without crimping the wires. He only just "twisted" the wires in there and I did get to see how unsafe they are. Since then I've only used electrical tape over anything else. It's also the easiest to use to make sure none of the wires get exposed.

As for the remote-on, I won't be needing a relay I don't think. it'll also be a 3-way connection (like the power wires) with the 2 blue wires for power antenna, one from the car and one from the head unit, and the Remote-On from the Equalizer. Unless anyone tells me that I shouldn't do that, that's how I'll do it according to the Jensen CD Player's manual book saying the power antenna wire is for Power Antenna and Amplifier. Here's an online copy in PDF format:

http://www.audiovox.com/manuals/owners/MPH4210_021904_Final.pdf