Component Speakers


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Coolhand20th

CarAudio.com VIP
Mar 27, 2019
309
69
Wisconsin
So been thinking on this the past hour or so. I have a couple options I am thinking about....Been thinking maybe it isn't enough power also just something I have been dwelling.

1. Install Alpine Tweeters, keep front RF P1683, of course go active and use channels 1&2 for tweeters 3&4 for the Front RF P1683s and use HU for the rear RF P 1683s while still using MTX 704X which is 70x4 RMS.

2.Same as above but switch out MTX 704X for a bigger 4 channel amplifier, either the Pioneer that is highly thought of or use a 400x4 from Taramps or something else that is 100x4 RMS.

3. Go the Silverflute route either the 8" or 6.5" once I measure depth, Alpine tweeters and of course active with channels 1&2 for the tweeters, 3&4 for the Silverflutes and HU for the rear RF P1683s.

4. Same as above but a 4 channel amplifier with more power like I said in option #2.

Also if I do #1 what should I be setting the crossovers at in the 80-PRS?
 

ThxOne

AudioFreak
Jun 8, 2018
2,504
452
Saint Marys, GA
I run the Silverflutes 6.5" in my G6 GT Coupe... big speaker, magnet is kinda deep but not bad, it is however big in diameter. I listen to metal (Slayer, Deicide, Cannibal Corpse, Death, King Diamond and so on) and I also listen to BASS, Jazz, Rock, and so on. No complaints from me or the speakers, ever. Watch out for those "cheap Alpine tweeters" on eBay... I think they are fake. I have purchased 2 sets, they did not last. I could be wrong.

Edit: Listen to these guys about setting the gains for the tweeters... I didn't a few times (ego) and tweeters don't last. I'd adjust the gain for the tweeters last and bring them up to match/blend with the other speakers with music. A tweeter may say 100w or 50w... ummm, no way. 30w is more realistic.
 
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Coolhand20th

CarAudio.com VIP
Mar 27, 2019
309
69
Wisconsin
So far the guys at DIYMA have done a lot of testing on them and they all come out as they should. Idk maybe a bad set/s or maybe they are fake. Either way for the price I'll try them plus I bought the warranty through square trade for 2.50 for 3 years if they dump then they can deal with it,lol.
 

ThxOne

AudioFreak
Jun 8, 2018
2,504
452
Saint Marys, GA
So far the guys at DIYMA have done a lot of testing on them and they all come out as they should. Idk maybe a bad set/s or maybe they are fake. Either way for the price I'll try them plus I bought the warranty through square trade for 2.50 for 3 years if they dump then they can deal with it,lol.
I remember they sounded better pointed at me and they sounded good. I had NO protection on them and was full active. It may have been my fault. I still have a pair here in pods I made.
 
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Coolhand20th

CarAudio.com VIP
Mar 27, 2019
309
69
Wisconsin
@Jeffdachef

Take a look at the options I posted today. Maybe I am just don't have enough power as the RF are 90db which is better then I thought they were. Maybe my crossover settings are wrong right now as well. Curious as to what you think I should be crossing this over at right now for the heck of it and see if I can get any of a difference out of it. Either way the Alpine tweeters are going into the door or the panel like in the above in my XLT. I will just run the tweeters off channel 1&2 and the front RFs off of channels 3&4 and the rears off the HU like we talked about.
 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
18,280
694
South Coast Metro, CA
@Jeffdachef

Take a look at the options I posted today. Maybe I am just don't have enough power as the RF are 90db which is better then I thought they were. Maybe my crossover settings are wrong right now as well. Curious as to what you think I should be crossing this over at right now for the heck of it and see if I can get any of a difference out of it. Either way the Alpine tweeters are going into the door or the panel like in the above in my XLT. I will just run the tweeters off channel 1&2 and the front RFs off of channels 3&4 and the rears off the HU like we talked about.
the RF tweeter in the coaxial is 90db, the midrange is less more like mid 85s. The speakers always use the tweeter as the sensitivity measurement which is the highest of the two. Still though i'd actually do option 1 because it costs the least. Then transition to option 3 then add power as needed. Actually you can add power before the switch up, thats fine too but i know the RF reaches its limit at 100 watts before it starts stinking those dont really get too loud tbh.

You'll be doing everything at the head unit. Other than having a high pass filter as a 2ndary buffer for the tweeters left on at the amp around 800hz -1000hz (for added protection) or so, the actual crossover points will be done on the head unit which you will need to switch to network mode.
 
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Coolhand20th

CarAudio.com VIP
Mar 27, 2019
309
69
Wisconsin
Okay sounds good! I think I am still going to add power down the line and do one of the Silverflute options in the spring then. As that way I can get away with it till then since winter is coming here in Northeast Wisconsin and looking like a record year for snowfall :D :D :D. Which makes me happy but means less driving which tbh doesn't bother me as I don't do surgeries or doc appts during that time unless I absolutely have to. Thanks again everyone!
 

hispls

CarAudio.com Veteran
10+ year member
Sep 10, 2009
11,223
394
Central Maine
they sound pretty decent but I think there is just a bit more out there.
I really don't think you're going to get an upgrade in the 100-150$ price range, at least not in a 6x8 where there's just so few choices. I'd guess all of the ones from the common brands in that price range are about the same, probably built in the same Chinese factory, and may well be the same exact thing with different brand names printed on them.

I find that within the good brands they're all pretty comparable between price tiers. For example, the Alpine 99$ ones will be about the same as JBL, Kicker, etc. 99$ ones and the 300$ ones across all those brands will be about comparable to each other in that tier. When you're in the entry level option you have to have very reasonable expectations.

IF you care to try to mod your factory holes to fit a 6x9 or 6.5" round you can probably find something on closeout or new old stock of a higher tier in your price range, but again, 6x8 just doesn't have a big selection for plug and play options
 
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Coolhand20th

CarAudio.com VIP
Mar 27, 2019
309
69
Wisconsin
I am going to go the 1st route for now then go route number 4 in the spring. Either 8" Silverflutes or the 6.5s depending on depth which I will measure when I do the tweeters, but coming from China those may not come in till Mid October. Might just enough time to get them in before it gets really cold here, heck we've had below zero temps already and freeze/frost warnings here once and usually every night just north of us.

I love that MTX 704X it has served me well for well close to 13 years since I got it NIB from Circuit City when the Pioneer I bought there blew up after 4 months and they gave me the option to get that since they did the install. Needless to say I found a bad ground that caused it along with the fact they put a screwdriver in my front speaker which I found while changing out the window motor so in order to save face they pretty much let me upgrade the amplifier and the speaker set without saying a word because they knew they had been caught doing shitty work. (FYI I was recovering from major surgery at that point and couldn't do the install plus it was winter, just wanted it done...should have known better).

Anyways I think the Pioneer that a lot of people use or the ugh Taramps which is nice strictly because of the small footprint will happen to give the Silverflutes the power they need when I do it.

Once again thanks everyone and my apologies for bringing up a year old thread. Just been on my mind now that other things have settled down and I can start to plan that out like I wanted to last year.
 
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Coolhand20th

CarAudio.com VIP
Mar 27, 2019
309
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Wisconsin
So I think I just got a little lucky. Someone over at DIYMA has a PPI i520.4 and he is giving it away for the cost of shipping. So I sent him a pm a minute after he had posted as I happen to be online at that time. That will save me some money and allow me to do what we talked about maybe a little more as well. I also found a set of Kicker KS 6.5 components I think I will put in the rear over the RF when I do this. Use the MTX 704X on the Alpine tweeters and the Silverflutes then install that PPI i520.4 and use the 4 channels for the Kicker components since I have people in the back seat now and then and they like to listen to loud music as well....yeah it is a crappy set but will give it a try over a 6x8 and see what happens. If I don't like it not like it is that hard to switch out,lol.
 
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Coolhand20th

CarAudio.com VIP
Mar 27, 2019
309
69
Wisconsin
And I just got lucky again,lol. Someone at DIYM had this for sale 60 with shipping and had the money so bought them. SilverFlutes 6.5 with those tweeters. So I have 2 options for tweeters then.

 
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Coolhand20th

CarAudio.com VIP
Mar 27, 2019
309
69
Wisconsin
@Jeffdachef

I think I got what I wanted for the cost of 80 bucks total. A little more powerful amp for the front tweeters and silverflutes then the 704X for the rears to please the little people who sit in the back seats. Otherwise I would just run them off the HU but of course I got...no I want it loud back there as well...stinking kids...I mean Adults,lol
 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
18,280
694
South Coast Metro, CA
@Jeffdachef

I think I got what I wanted for the cost of 80 bucks total. A little more powerful amp for the front tweeters and silverflutes then the 704X for the rears to please the little people who sit in the back seats. Otherwise I would just run them off the HU but of course I got...no I want it loud back there as well...stinking kids...I mean Adults,lol
Problem is you dont have the rca channels to do so
 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
18,280
694
South Coast Metro, CA
Unless you have a dsp, theres no way to run active and rears on your current head unit. Because once its in active mode, the rcas turn into low, mid and high, there is no rear.

If you really have to run rears,, check to see if you have proper impedance then you can wire the kicker and the alpines in series bridged to the mtx in 2 channel mode. Do the same with the new ppi 4 channel into 2 channel bridged with the kicker mid and silverflutes in series or both your 6x8s in series if you want to test it out with the rockfords as mids.

Series wiring will be 8 ohms since parallel will be 2 ohms and the amp bridged is only stable down to 4 ohms which means you'll still be seeing around 4 ohm load worth of power to each driver. Active will pretty much turn your setup into tweeters, mids and subs. No rears or fronts.

You can test around if you want but id personally sell it all and have two pairs of matching tweeters and two pairs of matching mids all setup in the configuration i specified because you can only tune for yourself and the rear might sound like shit because thats not the crossover point that particular driver likes. Also say good bye to any kind of halfway decent soundstage. Thats all down the shitter now. The other solution is to sell the excess and get a dayton dsp so you have 8 channels of control and you can actually do the setup right and have preset configurations for when your friends are with you and super SQ mode when you drive by yourself.

My actual two cents. Stick with the original plan leave the rears on head unit power. If you do the front stage correctly you should be able yo be heard several football fields away, there's no reason why it wont reach the back of your car.
 
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Coolhand20th

CarAudio.com VIP
Mar 27, 2019
309
69
Wisconsin
Copy. I will just leave the kickers in the box then. Go with the PPI for the extra power for the tweeters and silverflutes and take out the 704X and just put the RFs on the head unit. I'd rather not add more but it was an idea. They can just deal with it the way it is.
 

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