Completely new to everything, need death metal setup.

i started with a budget of $500 in march, to this day I'm $2200 into my system and its still not in my truck, i need another $700to finish lol, id try to help but i know nothing of how metal/rock plays in a system. good luck man hopefully you don't have to dig as deep in your pockets as i did
lmao yea it can get pricey if you want to do the whole nine yards that's for suuuuurrreeeee. By the time I'm done my substage I'll be in the 3500$ range hahaha.
Hahaha....I had a Jeep Patriot and a $1000 budget. After a ton of researching I let go of the Jeep (eff the payments) an got a Explorer, specifically for its features. Now I have a monthly $3-400 to spend, an don't ever plan on being satisfied. This will be my first DIY system, hopefully I'll be loud by Oct - Nov

Anyway OP....Do lots of research, watch vids, an sample equipment if possible. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Car audio can get expensive an unless u got it like tht, make intelligent purchases an try not to cheap out.... GL

 
Personally I will suggest that you don't spend over 150$ on a HU. You can get what you need without spending that much. Something like this would do you right:

Kenwood KDC-X497 (kdcx497) Single-Din Car Stereo w/ Built-In HD

Now I'm not an expert on head units because I haven't bought one in years so I don't know what's out there really... I just did a search on Sonic Electronix... So I'm sure someone else could get you one with a little better features... But if you decide to get that one then you probably won't be disappointed unless you already know a lot about car audio.

One of the most important things to look for in a HU is the preamp voltage. 4 volts or higher is recommended. The one I linked has 3 sets of 4V outputs which means you can connect an amp for your sub(s), an amp for your front speakers, and if you want you can amp your back speakers. But most people don't even have back speakers anymore and neither do I so putting an amp on your backs is up to you.

And about that radio you found in your closet, yes that could work. But it only has one pair of preouts so you can only run one amp on it. Which might even be fine for you if you don't plan on amping your front doors, but I'd suggest you do.

-Now to decide on your subwoofer situation. You said your space is pretty big so I'd say to keep in budget we have a couple options. Without knowing your actual space I'm gonna say do a single 18... An Obsidian Audio 18 costs 190$ plus shipping and will take 600 watts RMS daily. If you can not fit a box big enough for that then I'd say get 2 12s from Obsidian. Almost half the box size is needed to run them properly and they each will take 600RMS daily so 1200w total. Anything else will cost a considerable amount more money, like 100$ more. You can get an amp that'll do 1200 watts for like 150$.

So that's 110$ for the HU, 300$ for the subs, and like 150$ for the amp. You'll then need to get wire and either build the box yourself (which idk if you can) or have someone build it for you. That can be like 150 - 200$. So lets estimate that at 760$.

A little over budget but if you think you'd be happy with just 1 12 then you can save about 100$ and get a Sundown Audio SA-12 for 190$. And then you'd only need a 600 watt amp. So you'd save about 150$ maybe. But remember, that's only if you can't fit an 18. If you can fit an Obsidian Audio 18 then I'd def do that rather than an SA-12. It'd be a lot louder.

 
Wow, you have a lot going on. You have a lot of really good questions, and like you, I get stuck sometimes OP. This is where I try to study about audio, from beginner to Advanced, this section has very good information. Car Audio Reference Database . But what will truly help you is experiencing the equipment you wish to buy. There are plenty of Audio shows in the Southwest and plenty of really good people live out that way that are on ca.com and can really help. The biggest mistakes I ever make in Car Audio is buying something without seeing it in action.

Shows are a lot of fun, and gives you time to meet other audio enthusiasts, which making friends is what it's all about, cause your not loud if someone else can't hear you, lol!

 
Oh no no no. That's a bandpass with no plexi and built for subs that nobody has probably heard of before. definitely don't waste your money on that. Now don't get me wrong, I love a properly built bandpass, they can sound great, but this one unfortunately has seen it's better day. I would definitely look into more control (headunit with better EQ options) More power Up front (And new speakers to take that power) and add a sub. In which order you do it all is up to you. I suggest the headunit, then the sub. If you use your crossover to take some of those low frequencies out of your front speakers, they will have less on tap to do and in turn sound better. Then add a sub to make up for those frequencies you took out, and see how you like it. It may already be enough to stop there. Hope this helps!!

 
Oh no no no. That's a bandpass with no plexi and built for subs that nobody has probably heard of before. definitely don't waste your money on that. Now don't get me wrong, I love a properly built bandpass, they can sound great, but this one unfortunately has seen it's better day. I would definitely look into more control (headunit with better EQ options) More power Up front (And new speakers to take that power) and add a sub. In which order you do it all is up to you. I suggest the headunit, then the sub. If you use your crossover to take some of those low frequencies out of your front speakers, they will have less on tap to do and in turn sound better. Then add a sub to make up for those frequencies you took out, and see how you like it. It may already be enough to stop there. Hope this helps!!
I'm under the impression he already has the box because he said he found it. I may be wrong though.

Regardless, that box looks very cheap lol.

You should definitely go out with a measuring tape and measure out your max space you can use for a sub. Side to side, front to back, floor to roof. Then come back and tell us and that will determine your sub setup.

 
Personally I will suggest that you don't spend over 150$ on a HU. You can get what you need without spending that much. Something like this would do you right:
Kenwood KDC-X497 (kdcx497) Single-Din Car Stereo w/ Built-In HD

Now I'm not an expert on head units because I haven't bought one in years so I don't know what's out there really... I just did a search on Sonic Electronix... So I'm sure someone else could get you one with a little better features... But if you decide to get that one then you probably won't be disappointed unless you already know a lot about car audio.
You have no idea what a proper head unit can do for overall sound quality. I've deadened my doors, custom baffles, proper seals, provided ample power, played around with speaker placement and positioning, went through countless expensive speakers and it still always sounded horribly lacking. I had a pioneer 4200ub back then. 3 sets of 4 volt preouts, basic crossovers and 3 band EQ. Didnt think I needed anything else. Until i finally pulled the trigger on an 80 prs. Hands down day and night difference. Made the single biggest impact on overall sound quality more then all the other upgrades combined. Music sounds real, no peaks nothing missing, sound stage is all there. Digital time alignment along with powerful 24 bit sound processors make the biggest difference. NEVER underestimate the quality of a good signal. I'll NEVER EVER go back to POS cruddy basic head units ever again just because of pure sound quality difference alone.

 
You have no idea what a proper head unit can do for overall sound quality. I've deadened my doors, custom baffles, proper seals, provided ample power, played around with speaker placement and positioning, went through countless expensive speakers and it still always sounded horribly lacking. I had a pioneer 4200ub back then. 3 sets of 4 volt preouts, basic crossovers and 3 band EQ. Didnt think I needed anything else. Until i finally pulled the trigger on an 80 prs. Hands down day and night difference. Made the single biggest impact on overall sound quality more then all the other upgrades combined. Music sounds real, no peaks nothing missing, sound stage is all there. Digital time alignment along with powerful 24 bit sound processors make the biggest difference. NEVER underestimate the quality of a good signal. I'll NEVER EVER go back to POS cruddy basic head units ever again just because of pure sound quality difference alone.
Then how do you know what is a "cruddy" HU? I have a Pioneer 4400 dvd.... Is that "cruddy"?

And Blaine, that's a lot of space. You can pretty much do w/e you want... I'm at work right now but I'll help later.

 
Then how do you know what is a "cruddy" HU? I have a Pioneer 4400 dvd.... Is that "cruddy"?
And Blaine, that's a lot of space. You can pretty much do w/e you want... I'm at work right now but I'll help later.
You don't have a audiophile head unit. It's the source man, the most important part of the build.

 
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